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Weber carb


NYC_HC

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Just installed a weber on my z24 and all i can say is ,buy one .It handles all the lurching problems i had and makes the truck considerably faster.I found it on ebay for 289.00 from the weber distributor in long island N.Y. and called em direct.It was a bolt and go deal according to my mechanic. Only issiue is theres a valve on the firewall making wierd nosies so its going back to see whats up, otherwise its running 10x better.:D

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I was thinking that but i figured id just let a professional handle it plus its boging a second when you slam the gas and the secondaries open , but i doubt its the carb and even with this little b/s, its still night n day difference from the stock carb.I have a helmet cam and ill do a video when its runnin right so you guys can see and hear the difference.I just wish i did a video of it in stock form.

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well if you slam on the gas to fast it will bog(weber). You got to learn how to drive it abit with a weber DGV. since the machanical secondaries you open the 2nd barrel too soon before you have enough air vol it will bog abit.

 

try timming your motor again and maybe the mixture screw with the tension spring on there at the base of the carb and bypass that switch or whatever it is. and see what happens ot try it with it again.

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Never made it to mechanic yet, but i did manage to spend another 200 bucks on a doug thorley header .Im installing it and taking the truck to a race engine builder to tune the carb for me, fix or disconnect whatever valves it needs and possibly even dyno it . Wonder if he can eliminate the bog with jettiing or some trick he knows.Possibly slow down or modify the butterfly and or linkage ratios? We gonna find out soon enuff. Someone better hide the camshafts from me. =]

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There is no adjustment that will help it from bogging out when you jam the throttle.This is why people rev up before dumping the clutch for burnout take offs.Whats a z24 with a weber,like 130 hp tops?Now a big v8 will respond when you slam the throttle.Is there any bog when driving normal?This would be an issue.There is a lot of vacuum lines on a naps.

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K&N... Either take your old filter into the shop and ask them to match the size, or get an open element filter and attach it to the top of the carb... it should clear the hood, it does on mine, and I think our engines are roughly the same overall size. Just take off the stock air cleaner, measure the carb opening, and ask the shop for a filter with a mount that size... if you have to, you could go a little smaller with the opening... that's what mine's like, and it's held in place with a hose clamp. The rubber is stretched a bit, but it holds fine.

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Bah... double post... but yeah, open element like one of those. Mine's round, but same thing. I like K&N myself, but that's just a personal preferance... I like the fact that they last for years, although I remember hearing about a new cotton filter that doesn't require oiling once a year... I don't remember the maker though.

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Its only bogging when you slam it down , and then it does it for a split second .Im not drag racing it and will never jam it to the floor when driving it normally and if i ever rev it and dump the clutch its because im runnin from the cops or worse ,the wife.I was just checking the carb performance after the install, but ill keep everyone posted as it comes together.

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The 32/36 is awesome with a l18 so long as you have the right head.Larger ports and valves is best.If you havnt used a weber before,dont expect a tire burning shot in the ass but more a decent wake up,ultra simplicity(blind monkeys tune these)and more responsive acceleration.

I wouldnt spend the $ on a mechanic to dial in a weber.Changing jets will more likely affect the power band(lightly) and fuel economy not the actual intake air speed.

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There is no adjustment that will help it from bogging out when you jam the throttle.This is why people rev up before dumping the clutch for burnout take offs.Whats a z24 with a weber,like 130 hp tops?Now a big v8 will respond when you slam the throttle.Is there any bog when driving normal?This would be an issue.There is a lot of vacuum lines on a naps.

 

LOl the Z24 is rated at less than an L20B but this does not tell the true story. It was designed for low pollution so was never intended to rev much over 5,000 RPMs. The head design is perfect for what it's for, but again, lacks room for serious performance improvements. The head is a cross flow design (good) but the valve angles are such that more lift or larger valves will touch. (bad) The intake port has a quite sharp short turn radius which is fine for lower RPMs bad when revved. The valve springs are rumored to be weak which does not matter on a low revving motor but combined with slightly longer valves than an L series limits high RPMs due to valve float. The springs I've seen looked the same as the L so not sure about this 'weekness'. The cam is probably designed with lower RPM power band as the head isn't a good breather anyway. The crank is not fully counterweighted either as high RPM smoothness, again is not expected. On the plus side the head is a dual plug, often perfered by racers, but here used in pollution controll and is almost a true HEMI shape. This motor makes TORQUE and is a stump puller and not a revver. Perfect truck motor and was only ever used in trucks. I like them.

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LOL?Hmmm.Regardless of the high revving capabilities of a z24 it would still need to be revved up in order to create enough vacuum to hammer down on it.Not sure exactly what was LOL about my post but whatever.The highest rated L20b I have ever seen stock was 110 hp.The z24 is more than this I am sure.

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LOL?Hmmm.Regardless of the high revving capabilities of a z24 it would still need to be revved up in order to create enough vacuum to hammer down on it.Not sure exactly what was LOL about my post but whatever.The highest rated L20b I have ever seen stock was 110 hp.The z24 is more than this I am sure.

 

No offence datsunfish, the Z24 is about 108 hp. That's what's funny, their output is... puny, compared to say a KA24. These motors were not built with hp in mind, it's all in the torque at low RPMs. In comparison, if an L20B makes, say, 110 hp, increasing it 25% to an L24B, it should make 137hp.

 

I'd like to see how far one could be pushed. (not by hand that is)

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This one looks like its had just about everything done to it

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/379697

 

Some aspects of this truck are nice even though it's totally over done. The Z18ET turbo exhaust manifold is cool! Tried to find one through an JDM importer near me, no luck yet. 300 hp? no way! Show me a dyno sheet. :D:D:D

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