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LZ22 Turbo Question


sssr20det510

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Ok so i have a chance to pick up a complete cartech turbo kit,with 44mm side draft webber. i was looking to see how much power can be made with a lz22 turbo motor cant find a thing. im thinking 200 should be possible? anyone know anyone with this motor set up??

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all i could find is z22 with l head is 120-145 hp could not find anyone who has turboed one and dyno it
145 is not far from 200.... I am saying 200 easy because my friend and i did a turbo z24i(napsz24it...hmmmmm) and even though we never had a chance to dyno it i am sure it had well over 200 with the crappy intake, exhaust and head. IT ran like a well built small block
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  • 2 weeks later...

You can also use sr pistons if you dont want to go the full 4mm (89mm) overbore and keep some meat on the walls.The sr pistons are 87mm. You will have to resize and float the small end of the rods though.

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Kieth Law in Vancouver has a turbod L20B blow through 32/36. But has forged internals, intercooler, alcohol injection, oil cooler, wideband O2 sensor and stuff that doesn't make hp but allows you to safely make and keep making a constant 7,500- 8,200 RPM 245 RWHP all day.

 

The LZ22 should make about 115 RWHP, properly fed with cam and carbs can make 130 RWHP normally aspirated, Byron has one. Lets say 120 for sure. To add another 80 hp to that you are going to need 67% more fuel/air crammed into the cylinders. In theory, assuming that the air flow through the turbo, manifolds, ports are linear, (it ain't) then you will need to run about 9.4 lbs. of boost. In reality, you will need slightly more. Yes you probably could make 200 RWHP with an LZ22 for a quick run up on a dyno, but not all day. Not with factory pistons.

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Kieth Law in Vancouver has a turbod L20B blow through 32/36. But has forged internals, intercooler, alcohol injection, oil cooler, wideband O2 sensor and stuff that doesn't make hp but allows you to safely make and keep making a constant 7,500- 8,200 RPM 245 RWHP all day.

 

The LZ22 should make about 115 RWHP, properly fed with cam and carbs can make 130 RWHP normally aspirated, Byron has one. Lets say 120 for sure. To add another 80 hp to that you are going to need 67% more fuel/air crammed into the cylinders. In theory, assuming that the air flow through the turbo, manifolds, ports are linear, (it ain't) then you will need to run about 9.4 lbs. of boost. In reality, you will need slightly more. Yes you probably could make 200 RWHP with an LZ22 for a quick run up on a dyno, but not all day. Not with factory pistons.

 

hmmm some interesting info here.

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HEAT is the destroyer of motors. Heat in the air is concentrated by the compression ratio of the engine and added to the residual heat in the cylinder can cause pre ignition. If more air is crammed into the cylinder by a turbo the heat is raised even higher increasing the chance of pre ignition even more. Think of pre-ignition in a turbo motor as a sledgehammer hitting the pistons as they rise up the bore 50 time a second at 6K RPMs. The high silicone content of the stock hypereutectic pistons make them brittle as glass.

 

It's easier to reduce the intake air temp than trying to reduce the cylinder temps later. Every effort must be made to reduce heat in the intake air and the engine. Start with a cool air supply, there's no sense in using warm air from behind the rad yet I see turbo cars with those ubiquitous 'cone filters' sucking air from behind the rad. A water and alcohol injection system absorbs heat by evaporation. An inter cooler sheds heat like a household heat pump. Assure a cool fuel supply line plumbed away from any heat source. A high capacity rad and fan that keeps the engine temperatures from spiking during boost. A fuel map that assures a rich boost condition and and ignition retard system that reacts to sensed engine knock. An oil cooler is easily overlooked but it removes heat from areas in the engine not cooled by water. Some motors have oil squirters to spray and cool the piston bottoms like the KA24DE. Cooler pistons equal cooler cylinders.

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