New member, where do I stick this?

[daily driver]

Only one I have right now. Before I cleaned it up.

FJ20ET 190HP stock

Edited August 15, 2009 by daily driver

[stilltwisted]

so does it have a lot of after market stuff on it ? i see the brace and the earth kit,,but it does not look to messed with ,,that fj is sick

[daily driver]

Nope it's pretty much all stock, other than a turbo timer. I've been playing with boost and timing a little, the car responds well to it. :D

[daily driver]

I'd be very interested in how, in detail, to buy cars like that through "brokers". I've always heard stories of the basics, but you never hear the dirty details on how everything transpires. IE: How many hoops to jump through, how many people to deal with, how many forms to sign, how customs works, and how you get final registration paperwork. I'd love a car like this, but just have no idea where to start.

 

I wasn't skipping this, just didn't have the time to sit down and write.

 

First read the NHTSA http://www.nhtsa.gov/cars/rules/import/information on bringing in a car 25 years or older. Then read the EPA website, and then research your state laws. Call DMV and tell them what your plans are. Then call them back and speak to someone else, you may get a completely different story.

 

It's really not an easy task to transfer everything I learned from this purchase into a post. I went into it knowing less than I thought I knew, and it almost cost me a bunch of money.

 

Finding a broker you can trust is the first step. A lot of the company's doing it in Japan do yahoo auctions too. I would suggest maybe buying something small of yahoo with them and seeing how it goes. If they muddle up a $100 deal then go on to the next guy. I can't recommend the one I used because he got away with $1k of my money. Lesson's learned..:mad:

 

Knowing what you want is the next step. Figure out the exact car or cars and the condition your willing to settle for. If you want a DR30 like mine, or a 510 coupe than chose those cars and wait. Don't settle for an R30 or a 4dr 510 just to make something happen. Wait awhile and the right car will come along. The auction cars are rated from 0 to 6, 6 being like new. Different auction companies may do it a little different, but they all follow most of the same guidelines. My car was a 4 and I can tell you it is nice, but it's what you would expect a well kept 83 model car to look like. Flaws, non of them to worry about.;)

 

Some examples of what you see on the auction page:

 

So, you find your broker, you settle on the car you want, now is the time to send him some money. Initial buy in is Yen 100,000, or about $1k (refundable). This gets you the right to place a bid, and if you don't have it already, access to whatever internet portal they use so you can view cars. Auctions in Japan go on everyday year round. Some days are lighter than others, but it seems to be a process without a break. Typical auctions last around 15 seconds. Yes, 15 seconds. So you don't bid like fleabay. You give the broker your max bid and he bids up to that point and no more. You also don't have any way of watching it live. It's up to him to get back to you with a win or lose. If you've won the car then great! If not another will be along shortly.:) At this point it would be wise to have another way of checking the final price on the car. Another broker you've talked with or maybe a friend that has access to the information using his broker. Either way verify what the car went for when the hammer dropped in case your guy tells you more.

 

So you've bought a car on the other side of the planet. Now go tell the wife.:lol: You will have a little time to settle the balance and pay all the fee's. They can vary, and make sure you get the brokers fees up front. Some charge separately for deregistering, others include it in the costs. Send the rest of the money and the paperwork you need should be on it's way to your front door.

 

Shipping. You did get this sorted first right? I didn't.:o I just thought container and pick it up at the port. Well..., who, what, where, how, when, etc are all in the mix. I settled on Roll-on Roll-off using WWL. They roll the car on and roll it off at the port. Living close to a port has it's advantages. Paying for shipping is interesting. They actually shipped my car without any money upfront. I had to ask nicely, but it happened. This allowed me to not have to pay the broker, have him take a cut, then pay for my shipping.

 

So now the car is enroute to your port and you have some time to kill. Maybe a month or more depending on where it's going. The paperwork you need should consist of a deregistration document (in Japanese), 2 bill of ladings from the shipping company, 2 invoices from your broker, and translations for anything in Japanese. Now is the time to make nice with the customs agent. Call the port and tell them you have a personal shipment coming in. They may ask for the bill of lading #, what ship it is, and where the shipment originated. Ask them what steps you need to take to pick it up. This is where your homework knowing the rules may pay off. These folks don't see these types of things everyday, and may give you incorrect information. The first guy I talked to at the port told me he was going to deport the car when I told him it was a Skyline. Yup, really no BS this happened. I got a hold of another saner person and worked it out. By knowing the rules you save yourself some hassle. So in taking to this person, explaining what I have coming in I find out I have to do customs at the Airport. "The Airport" I say. The Airport. It didn't make sense then, and it doesn't make sense now. The Airport customs guy didn't understand either. Something about personal shipments and the port no longer does them. Its best at this point to contact whatever customs office the port tells you will do the customs when the car arrives. Be nice, explain things, don't waste their time and get the info you need. When can you come down, who should you speak with, etc. Have your HS-7 and EPA forms (3520) filled out and ready when you go. But you can't go until the car gets to port...:(

 

So you've been tracking the car using Vesseltrackerhttp://www.vesseltracker.com/en/Home.html and it's here! You wait patiently by the phone for the shipping company to call, but they never do. Don't expect it. Call them ,call the port and go get your car. If you still have to pay for shipping send a certified check to the shipping company (maybe this can be done when it's in route) and get payment confirmation. The port has a computer system that tracks payments and customs. If something's not right they won't release the cargo. You may have paid, but someone forgot the check a box and it still shows unpaid. Ask me how I know.

 

When you go to customs don't be in a rush, because you'll be the only one. Bring every piece of documentation with you and the forms you completed prior. Bring cash to pay the duty (2.5%) and whatever else. Hopefully you made contact earlier and they are expecting you. Check and recheck everything you get back. In my case I got back a completed and stamped HS-7, the EPA form (3520) stamped, and a form for DMV which I never copied so I can't tell you the #. He kept one Bill of Lading and one invoice. So customs done, go get the car.

 

You can't get on a port without an escort, someone must escort you everywhere you go. This costs money. Maybe you can have the shipping company take pity on you like they did me and get someone in the office to help you out.;) Go give the other bill of lading over at the office and they will copy your customs forms for their records. Pay whatever port charges there are and load up the car.

 

There it is! The car that's been keeping you up at night. The battery will most likely be dead from lack of use so plan on that. Bring a small toolkit with you too just in case. Don't expect anyone to help you load it on your trailer. I had 4 guys stand around and watch me. Carry it home and then go to DMV.

 

Take all your documentation with you to DMV. I got a woman that had never done one like this so we had a second person join us to process the paperwork. They asked for everything I had and I had everything they needed. Remember that form I didn’t copy? They asked for it. I didn’t even know about it, but luckily the customs officer did. DMV in VA will charge you sales tax on what you paid for the car in Japan before fees. Have it worked out in $ before hand. I guesstimated the conversion standing at the counter and paid it. Also convert the KM’s to miles for them before they ask. Again I guesstimated and that’s what got put on the title. Geico is good for insurance, but they may tell you they won’t do full coverage. If you do it on the website it goes through. State inspection wasn’t a problem, it may be in some states.

 

Good luck. I’ll help out if I can. I'm sure I left a bunch out:blink:

Edited August 16, 2009 by daily driver

[nismo dr]

awesome write-up. should be sticky

[stilltwisted]

thanks for the great info

[a.d._510_n_ok]

Cycletech, welcome to you and that gorgeous freakin' ride!

 

I won't say 'good to meet ya' 'cuz I done met ya at the JNC site when I was talking about my rear end getting hot :blink::lol:!

Edited August 16, 2009 by a.d._510_n_ok

[yellowdatsun]

That's awesome, thanks for taking the time to write this all down. Seems like a LOT of work, but at least now people have some idea of what to expect.

 

I also think this should be made sticky, I know some of us will want to use it was reference in the future.

[NSR_s30]

Nice DR30, I dig it. :eek:

[daily driver]

You know

[daily driver]

You guy's said something about pictures...and no that's not my house.:)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

:D

Edited August 19, 2009 by daily driver

[nismo dr]

oh so sick

[]2eDeYe]

Very nice ride. Great writeup as well.

 

 

If you wanted to expand it a little and start a new thread for just that topic, I can make it a sticky :)

[GreenDime]

Nice and welcome...hope to see engine pics soon!!!:lol: