just baught some subs :fu:

[Jester]

Man I just LOVE humble pie......It's my favorite. :D:D

It was easy to see this blow up coming. Things get said with a little bit of sarcasm (sp) and the next thing you know feelers get all out of shape and someone becomes an asshole. (At least it wasn't me this time)

Ghetto, cool of you to offer some help to those of us that really don't know squat about stereos.(Myself included) Groatd, good on you for eating a slice of humble pie;)

 

OK..........GROUP HUG

 

:lol::lol:

[thisismatt]

If you like mobile audio then i thought i would show you my 2 latest installs, My truck (jl audio 500/1v2, 2-jl audio 12w3v3, alpine cda-9883, jl audio wiring, custom sealed enclosure) and my buddies car (jl audio 1000/1v2, 2-jl audio 13w3v3, alpine cda-9884, 5.25 cubic foot ported enclosure tuned to 27.5 hertz, jl audio wiring, tr components) all wiring, box design, box building, basically everyhting was done by myself. havent gotten a chance to demo the grand am and get it tested but i would say its pushing mid to high 150's or more.

 

on a different note you say you are wanting a 1000 watt amplifier, bad bad idea unless you get a el cheapo amp that isnt a true 1000 watt amp, a true 1000 watt amp will draw atleast 100 amps from your electrical system, i dont think a 30 amp alternator, or your subs could handle it for that matter, and no you cant just turn the input sensitivity (or what you might call gain) all the way down.

I'd love to see anything remotely close to 150db with an accurate meter with that setup. Yeah, I'm calling shens on that magical figure. :fu: Also, of course you can get a higher output amp and keep the gain down to limit the output power. Sure, there may be an amp where the minimum input sensitivity will still result in an output of 300+ watts with some maximum head unit output voltage, but not likely.

 

While were on myths...

 

There's no such thing as "under powering" a speaker driver (it's called a volume control - you "under power" a speaker 99.999% of the time you're using it).

There's no such thing as speaker (mostly referred to with subwoofer) "break in" that limits power handling during said period. There is only suspension compliance which does indeed become more compliant with time/use. Technically, a brand new speaker will most likely mechanically handle more power brand new than if it's been used for an extended amount of time because the suspension will be more stiff and won't allow as much travel given the same amount of power.

For all intents and purposes, wire is wire is wire.

[Bleach]

:)i have my eye on a kenwood stero with i pod adapter, i belive its 125w 4 channal. is that good? or does it not realy matter cuz if i get a big amp it make up for 125w stero.....

That should be fine. Hook up 2 or 4 full range (6" round) speakers to the stereo. The Kenwood should have an amp or sub output. That goes to your external amp to power only the two subs. That should be a good basic system for your truck.

 

Now I'd like to see how you can fit all that in a standard cab 620 :P

[Braden]

you can call shens for now but i will show you pics of the meter later on, we ordered a brand new set of 13w3v3's that havent arrived yet but when they do i will go down to the dealer and have them test it for you. on another note my brother ran db drag for several years and took 1st place awards home with a set of 12w3v1's his best ever was 156. something at the headrest, you know how car stereo stuff is though some people know their shit and some dont, thats why one persons 12 hits sloppy and ones hits tight, its all in the box, and for the setup in the grand am we went with sound quality not with spl, the box is tuned to 28.56 htz, we could have gotten louder with say 35 or 40 htz tuning frequency. as for the 150 db call, that was a guestimate not proven (yet), i have heard 150's + and that is what it sounded like to me, like i said i will test it and show you, and its nice to have someone on here that knows a little something about stereo too, before ratsun, stereo was my biggest hobby.

 

 

I'd love to see anything remotely close to 150db with an accurate meter with that setup. Yeah, I'm calling shens on that magical figure. :fu: Also, of course you can get a higher output amp and keep the gain down to limit the output power. Sure, there may be an amp where the minimum input sensitivity will still result in an output of 300+ watts with some maximum head unit output voltage, but not likely.

 

While were on myths...

 

There's no such thing as "under powering" a speaker driver (it's called a volume control - you "under power" a speaker 99.999% of the time you're using it).

There's no such thing as speaker (mostly referred to with subwoofer) "break in" that limits power handling during said period. There is only suspension compliance which does indeed become more compliant with time/use. Technically, a brand new speaker will most likely mechanically handle more power brand new than if it's been used for an extended amount of time because the suspension will be more stiff and won't allow as much travel given the same amount of power.

For all intents and purposes, wire is wire is wire.

[Braden]

most headunits claim 50watts per channel for 4 channels this is not true, that is once again peak power not cuntinious, normally continious power to each speaker is 20 watts or less, the 50x4 or 125x4 just means that at max volume, with ample voltage and current supply, hitting the proper frequency, the head unit has the potential to throw 50 watts to each speaker for maybe a second or two. if you can get the kenwood deck cheap do it, you will like it and it will sound fine, for your mids and highs any aftermarket brand of speaker should handle atleast 75 watts a piece and are normally 4 ohm impedance. make sure to note the output voltage on the rca's to the amplifier for your subs incase your amp has input voltage settings its normally either low (4volts) or high (8volts)

 

 

 

:)lol geez i just wanted to show u guys my subs and look what it tuended into lol, but i know there not the best but the bass hits pretty hard and there only 30 bucks so i didnt want to pass up that deal, and ghettobraden i sent u a pm so we can figure out what i need, thank u every body for standing up for the little guy who spells like 5th grader :rolleyes:

i would of liked to go with 8" but 12" is what i got so i will work with what i got, i still dont have a sweet stero or an amp yet, i have my eye on a kenwood stero with i pod adapter, i belive its 125w 4 channal. is that good? or does it not realy matter cuz if i get a big amp it make up for 125w stero..... i dont know a lot about stero systems i just know i like the bass to hit realy hard and i want these to do that so all tips are welcom just dont fight over it. but thab=nk u to every body for there help

Edited August 12, 2009 by ghettobraden

[groatd]

That should be fine. Hook up 2 or 4 full range (6" round) speakers to the stereo. The Kenwood should have an amp or sub output. That goes to your external amp to power only the two subs. That should be a good basic system for your truck.

 

Now I'd like to see how you can fit all that in a standard cab 620 :P

 

 

lol i know hu, but dont worry about that i will figure out a way and it will sound awsome too :D