jaredperry

How did you tie into the rear brakes? Can you post pictures and maybe a decription of parts used?

I use old ratty porsche 914 seats.

What a sicco. ha ha

Ok, so I am wondering how I can set up my brakes so that I can lock the front only. I see that there are line lock kits, but does anyone have a DIY on how to do it for our 510's or Datsuns in general? I wanna do smoky burnouts for days. Thanks,

Oh. My. Gawd.

That was a lot easier than I thought it would be... -Put car on rear jack stands -Remove wheels -Remove rear exhaust section -Loosen rear mustache bar, but do not remove the nuts -Remove rear section of the drive shaft from the Diff -Remove the nuts holding the rear subframe. Everythigng should loosen/drop slowly once lightly shaken -Use a screw driver and pry out the halved bushings -Clean up the debris and prepare for bushing installation Reverse the dissasembly Entire bushing install took me about 1.5 Hrs once I figure out what I was doing

I searched and wasn't able to find... Maybe I just suck at looking, but are there any good threads on how to install rear subframe bushings? Zee big ones? Thanks!

I would like to give a big thanks for those that helped me out with my alternator and wiring problems. The alternator was upgraded due to being faulty and was converted to internally regulated. Runs, lights up and drives great! Now onto the rest of the car!

Alternator failed the test at vato zone. I picked up the first option (s10), so hopefully this fixes the problem.

All are bolt in and "plug / play" essentially?

Do you know a part number of an internally regulated alternator I could hook up in place of this one? Would like to keep the "T" harness.

So I took the car for a drive and after about 20 minutes the car just died. No power, so I had to jump it to get it back home. I am wondering if my alternator is bad. I am going to get it tested tomorrow.

Yes. The external regulator is not hooked up to anything. I am confused as to why my dash light is still on... Not sure if relevant information, but my battery reads 11.78 Volts. Could battery voltage or amperage cause the light to go on, or is it still hooked up wrong?

So I wired it up like a internally regulated set up. Tell me if I borked it up. "L" (Lower T terminal) got hooked up the to White with red wire (Illumination) The upper terminal got connected to the lower "B" post then bridged over the starter and the Positive battery lead. White with blue wire was snipped (Thinking I should put this on the Electric choke, but not sure) The Ign light is still on in the dash, but there is no more metal to metal sparking, so I guess thats a little progress.

HA HA! Right?!

This makes me think its internally regulated because of the indication letters on the back of the alternator. http://www.z-car.com/blog/cars/converting-a-datsun-510-to-an-internal-regulated-alternator

The dash "Ign" Light is always on/illuminated. The vehicle is a '69 so I dunno if that makes a difference.

Here is the label I never posted.

In this case, what one is hot that goes to the starter and what one goes to the chassis/voltage regulator? The hole that is between the "B" pole and the spade is threaded. Also, where is this white wire supposed to go? To the mounting bolt? Hopefully all of these corrections that are to be made will fix the ignition light. Thanks for all the help.

I know that there is no ground wire from the alt to the chassis. Where exactly is this supposed to come from and to? Any photos? I will have the alternator checked out in the mean time.

Dammit. Ha ha. How can I tell the difference then?

From what I remember the buzzing has been intermittent and has gotten worse/more apparent. The car was a shell with trashed motor when I got it and a fellow member on the forum helped me get everything in terms of electrical going. The external regulator is new and I have swapped the old one in and out and I have gotten the same results. In regards to the alternator, I matched it up to the one that came on the vehicle, so I would assume that it is the same.

Anyone have any ideas why its buzzing like crazy? Do I have a short somewhere or a faulty ground, or is my alternator a POS (Its new, as in under five miles new). Dash lights dim / flicker Headlights flicker a little Also, if a piece of metal touches the chassis, there is a little bit of spark Apologies in advance for the newbness, but I don't know whats going on with this elderly vehicle. Thank you!

The housings were shortened to fit the inserts. Yes, I meant bump steer spacers. When I mean exposed, they pertrute far above the coils when held. Maybe I could do an MS Paint drawing... ha ha Do you have any suggestions on Ideal spring rates for DD and slammed datto?

I took it u on myself to build a set of coilovers for my dime and I have a couple questions. I constructed my kit with the following items: Rear: -Subaru Loyale Struts -Ebay Coils / Locking collars -2.5" DI HDPE Material for top Hats Front: Ebay lower bump stops Ebay universal Camber plates T3 Top hats Ebay coils / Locking collars MR2 Inserts Shortened Housings McMaster Carr Locking nuts Overall I feel Mehh about the set up. The rear is good with the "shot in the dark" spring rate and the average feeling rebound. I actually would like to believe say that the rear is good to go. The only real issue I have is the front. The car literally feels jarred when a marginal bump is hit. There is a clunk on transitions and it sounds like the damn thing is falling apart. I have adjusted the spring height and have gotten nothing good from the adjustments. I have come to the conclusion that the strut insert may be too tall and that there is not enough room for the shock to actually do what is supposed to. The reason I think this is because when the strut assembly is out of the vehicle, the springs hang out low and the shock top is pretty high up, as in there is about 6-8" of the shock rod exposed until there is a load on the assembly. So the questions we have all been waiting for... Why does it clunk? Is there supposed to be strut rod exposure? How long are the coil springs supposed to be? What is the shortest strut insert I should use in this case? Should I just spend the money on a T3 setup so I will stop complaining?