jaredperry

I'm here for the pics. Nice work, Ray!

Hello Fellow Ratsun members, I ran into this hard to find replacement issue with my carrier bearing as I found it to all be out of service while in the process of my frame off restoration. I quickly came to find that the bearing was NLA, both bushing and bearing, and with little to no viable solutions to the problem. After I had dropped the full driveshaft off at the shop, and a bit of research, the solution was to use the following components: Qty 1, Part# 3103-24, Trans Yoke Qty, 1, Part#2-28-277, Tube Yoke Qty, 1, Part# 5-1310X, U-Joint Kit Qty, 2, Part# 1251-22, U Joint Qty, 1, Part# 2680-10, Center Support The center support dust shields had to be milled down to allow for the drive shaft to slip in to keep the OEM length and access for the rear flange bolts. The center mounting holes are within the OE mounting range as well.

Fellow Ratsuners, Does anyone know anything about the competition struts? Such as if they were only oil filled, inner body length, or if they had an insert? Part Numbers: Right 5430222032 Left 5430322032 Thank you!

Reason being is that with the CA18DET I am running in the car, the mounts appear to be suffering from either the weight, or the from the flogging that the car receives. I am assuming that even an upgraded urethane isolator would be beneficial, but again, I am unable to locate a reputable manufacturer.

I have searched and have yet to find anything. Do they exist? Do I need to make my own? Thanks,

I have a 1971 510 that I recently acquired. After I got the vehicle home, I noticed more damage that initially assessed. As you can see, the front passengers side was hit and has crinkled the portion before the battery tray to include a small crinkle behind the passenger strut tower. I have yet to investigate the reasoning for the drivers side fender caving in near the door, but from what I have inspected it looks to be unrelated. I have since then obtained a front clip because I feel the only way to properly repair the damage is to remove the radiator core support and right side, or just do the whole front clip. I have a couple questions regarding the process: Is this a complete waste of time? Should I do the whole clip or just the passengers side? What do I need to look out for? What would be the correct procedure / process? Are the photos of the process on this site? Any insight and help is greatly appreciated. The front clip I have purchased

I have a base map if needed. In regards to the WB, I think you have to open the WB software then open up Nistune or vice versa. Also, aren't the STi injectors high impedance?

Best response. Thank you, Dale.

Thank you!

Hello All, I would like some feedback regarding an exhaust setup and what you would do about it. Current set up is a CA18DET and I have a 3" v-band down pipe that goes into a 2 1/2" slip joint under the vehicle. The exhaust then goes back into another slip joint (right before the rear subframe) and up into the rear subframe then out the rear. There is a hanger on the rear portion for stability and flex or whatever. Currently there is no flex joint and only slip joint / exhaust clamps installed. The car is lowered quite a bit and the suspension is pretty stiff, but I am still wondering if I should put in a flex joint... Would you install a flex joint? If you were to install a flex joint, where would you place it? Front? Rear? Thanks, for your opinions!

BUT I WANT THE LOUVERS!!!

Its not a joke. I would love some amazing louvers on my rear window.

Anyone have one, know where to get one or done a DIY for one? I would like on for my dime. That is all

Someone fork over a 280 strut and hub assembly so we can measure and make it happen then. ha ha

unicorn_tamer

Thanks Thanks for the kind words. I never sold it. I decided it would be smarter to dump more money into it.

flatcat19, These adapters can be made for any set up. I personally dont own a 280 strut for an adapter to be mucket up on, but I dont forsee it being difficult at all. The one and only concern I do have is the spindle / hub dimensions and the wheel combo. This current set up is great because you get vented rotors, an option for great calipers and the ability to keep the 13" wheels all by retaining your stock 510 strut assembly!

Do you want to upgrade your brakes without purchasing bigger wheels? Do you want to retain your 13” wheels? Do you want to keep your 510 strut assemblies? No problem!! This Stainless Steel adapter will fit to your stock 510-strut assembly without modification. You can even retain your OEM 17mm mounting bolts if you wish. The 3/8” Stainless, CNC’d adapters have custom spacers TIG welded to the assembly. The adapter is a direct bolt on using Grade 8 hardware and self locking nuts. The Rotors are also available if desired. The vented rotors are machined to fit the 510 OEM Spindle. Please inquire for pricing or if there are any further questions.

removed

Its for a 510. I am willing to pay... I just don't have 1k for a kit.

I dont, but If anyone has something similar to the CV kit that wolf creek offers that would be sick.

Hello All, I wanna do the CV upgrade for the rear axles and I need the CAD files or dimensions of the adapters. Could someone please help me out here? Also, I have some JFZ brakes I would like to run in the front and I need adapters for the JFZ brakes to mate to the 510 Hub / Strut assembly. Thank you!

Thanks for the replies everyone! I ended up purchasing JFZ front + rear calipers. I am going to install a proportioning valve regardless for entertainment purposes. I now need to find out what vented rotors I can use w/ the stock 510 hubs. I have a feeling I will need to make some sort of bracket. I am currently running 13" Advan a3as and would like to keep them. Thanks!

Hello, I want to clean up my engine bay a little before I install the engine I am building. I am getting new brakes front a rear and I have already installed a 1" Willwood MC. I have also purchased a manual proportioning valve. My question is, can I remove the valve (Drivers side of Strut tower) If I install a scew type proportining valve? Are there any DIYs available or references that anyone knows of? link for Proportioing valve Thank you!