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Thanks!

Missing the one completely for the 410 wagon I have. These are probably unobtanium, does anything else adapt?

So, no wipers or heater?

I'm working on a '65 410 and would like to put in some front seats that have headrests - nothing fancy needed, just something safer and reasonably easy to swap in. Anyone?

I'll be driving my 510 down from Oregon, but won't have it in the show.

Spent 4 hours chasing down wires from everywhere so I could finally have front marker lights for the first time in 10 years. Success! Also worked on tidying up the plethora of wires under the glovebox (more accurately, in the footwell currently) that go to my two Innovate boxes (DL32 data logger and TC4 thermocoupler). There are items like the tach output goes to three devices - the ECU, the Innovate for datalogging, and the tachometer, other thingslike throttle position and MAP readings go to two devices as well, and it all adds up to a rats nest quick! It seemed like a good idea at the time. Tomorrow a new TPS arrives and I should be back on the road again tuning it.

I put on a new, straighter bumper, required modifying my airdam to fit, but it came out fine..

This weekend I took this engine: In this car: and for the first time in over 5 1/2 years and, drove it Let the long tuning process begin!!

Today I started my 510 and dialed in the idle on the standalone ECU. Amazing how a swap into a different car can require a fairly significant change of ignition settings.

2002-2003 Protege5. Drive a 5-speed one. Not fast, but steering/braking feel and fun to drive is off the charts and more than makes up for lack of overweliming power.

Excellent to hear, time for some traction control :-)

How big was the turbo on that thing?

Bitchin', keep the updates coming.

420whp...I'm guessing low 11's at about 120-ish MPH with slicks?

Fair enough - all that matters is you're happy with it, I'm just offering other thoughts is all. I don't have a build thread per se but mine is a VG30DETT swap, so not quite apples to apples with the SOHC cars.

Why not get a properly sized turbo in the first place? The problem with nitrous is in that sense it's a band-aid isn't it? I'd think the most efficient way is to pick a horsepower level, get the smallest turbo that will make that HP level and then there's no balacing with backpressure and turbos. This gives you the broadest torque curve, better efficiency (less waste heat) and even better MPG. Seems to me having a bigger turbo than you can take advantage of is like having a 510CID V-8 but using a small carb and exhaust to restrict it to only 450hp. I too am aiming for the area of 475WHP but I don't plan on using a turbo that can flow 600HP, that would get me less power in the 2000-4000rpm range where street car engines live 99% of their life. In any case, glad to hear you got your new injectors in so next time you dyno you can fully tune it and make 'er rip!

Dang, torque doubles from 200ft-lbs to 400+ft-lbs in a 1000RPM spread? That's without nitrous right? (As I'd expect N2O to have an even more pronounced spike). That thin must be entertaining on an auto-x course.

Interesting result on the SR20DET....that actually makes no sense from an engineering standpoint, because from the turbo rearward you want as little restriction as possible. Think of it this way - what makes the turbine side of the turbo spin is the pressure difference between the cylinder head and the downpipe. Air flows from high pressure (cyl head) to low pressure (downpipe) side, so the greater the pressure differential the faster air flows from one side to anotherso it's quite curious the SR responded that way. SC61 turbo...yikes, what kind of power did that combination make, something like 400whp?

Sure, but if you have useful boost below 3000RPM (say, highway speed in 5th) AND good high RPM power then why turn that down? A turbo that doesn't kick in until 4000RPM should make *huge* numbers, and by huge I mean 500whp+. Also what good lower RPM torque usually means is decent highway MPG - 28+MPG on the highway, something not easily achievable if cylinder breathing isn't optimal at lower RPM's as well. If I can have 300whp up top AND a crapload of torque down low to me it's the best of both worlds and seperates the VG30 turbos from the SR20 turbos (which don't make much torque off-bosst regardless what you do). I'm also far from all knowing, I just try to have my cake and east it too :-)

That's about 1000RPM later than it should be yeah, what diameter is your downpipe/exhaust? A too-small downpipe/exhaust system will kill turbo performance. That 270/.465 cam, is that a turbo grind or is it intended for a non-turbo VG? I ask simply because what good for non-turbo engines is sometimes opposite if what's good for a turbo engine - camshafts are probably the biggest example.

Hard to see the RPM numbers on the bottom of your chart :-(, but thanks for posting it! Here's a dyno plot of a VG30ET in a 510 with euro cams, 3in exhaust but stock T3 turbo http://www.datsuns.com/Tech/engines/vg30et_dyno_savage_510.gif . Fully spooled by 3100RPM but "only" at 250WHP at 15PSI. You can sure see where the turbo starts to make boost though. I also like the fact that Gary started his dyno pull from below 2000RPM so you can get a great view of off-boost power.

Chart?

Here are a couple of pages on weights regarding 510's and engine swaps: http://www.datsuns.com/510/pl510weights.htm http://www.datsuns.com/510/510_weight_discussion.htm From the 2nd link: " hung a VG30 with manifolds, headers and flywheel from a 1000lb scale. Came it at 355 lbs. A similarly equipped L20B, with SUs came in at 260lbs."