CharlieW

The valve is always supposed to be positioned at the 12oclock position. This is so that the system can 'burp'....or vent air out. On my z24 they're is a mark on the thermostat housing for the valve to line up with.

How will the z18 exhaust manifold line up with the z24 cylinder head?

....check out the Nismo catalog...its on like page 83 iirc...get the part number and the phone number to Nismo and call your local dealer with those...the dealer will say they can't do it because the part number is no good, but they can...that's why they have to call. Msrp is less than a hunred too! I have this in my z24...it also has a Weber 38 and ported cylinder head. So far I have only logged a mile or two because the tires won't hold air because they're dry rotted...but it feels really incredible compared to before. Also has decent idle qualities...right around 850.

So far, tires won't hold air very long so I haven't gotten a chance to open it up at all...stay tuned...got new tires sitting at the shop for Monday morning, and I gotta fix the dreaded exhaust

Yeah but the carb is a Weber 38 that favors the big end...my hopes are that this is a combo that will be good all around, although I do realize that a cam and carb should be a matching pair...

So I noticed...the guy at Nismo was especially not helpful, but I have a sneaking suspicion that those cams were the ones used in the R.V. camper edition trucks...the idle is just a tad more choppy, but not much. The difference in performance feels pretty good but I haven't stretched its legs yet....that should really be where it wakes up.

The cam is part number 99996-D1017... it is on page 83 of their 2010 catalog. It is listed as .406"/272°. I didn't have to use any different springs or shims...and it runs like a champ. MSRP on that cam is $86.20 and if you call your dealer with that part number, they will tell you its no good. Tell your dealer to call Nismo with that number and they had like 92 left available....forever. They are not being made anymore. I had heard that they were made by Mikuni

Here we go...those are Z-71 wheels btw...they're just hard to see at this angle.

How much u want for those housings? I'd be interested if jdm isn't.

Here it is before the top end rework...I will get another picture tomorrow of it as it stands now.

So I ended up going with a ported cylinder head...not polished on the intake side... A high performance Nismo cam, and a Weber 38 outlaw from redline. This was against much knowledge from others on several forums that...months ago when I planned this build... said that the 38synchrous was a definite over-carb situation for a dish pistoned Z24. I set the mark on the crank pulley to the 10 on the timing tab and set the cam dowel straight up on the number 2 sprocket hole. I think the engine spun over maybe half a turn and fired up. Mind you guys, I have not adjusted the carb at all. I aired up the tires tonight for a test drive thinking that at low throttle it would fall on its face because of what I had heard... That is the farthest from the truth. It ran flawlessly. The choke worked perfectly. The truck ran and pulled smooth no matter what the engine load was in any gear. Never one did it skip/miss or have any flat spots. It pulled way harder than it ever did before, especially in 2nd and 3rd. I didn't run it hard at all...yet..., just because it sat for a very long time before I got to do this job. I am here to tell you guys that with a decent cam, a Weber38 is definitely not an over carb situation for these trucks. Hell, Im not even running a header. I did however port match both manifolds which took maybe half an hour. I am incredibly pleased with the results, and the fact that I spent a few bucks more with redline because the carb is perfect right out of the box. I ordered a jet kit at the same time, but the technician I had on the phone said I wouldn't need them...boy was he right. Those guys are fantastic. I would be glad to help anyone that has any questions about the setup and I will post a video link to YouTube as as I take it tomorrow. One proud 720 owner here and a huge thanks to Tigerracing/Corey for the cam recommendation.

Put in the last remaining exhaust plug on my 84 720...made quadruple sure it was in time after the head swsp...changed oil and coolant...fired it up! Very exhilarating as the truck has been sitting for almost a year!

...air cleaner. Those three tubes that came off the exhaust manifold, I removed the nuts...placed nickels underneath them in the holes on the manifold...then reinstalled the nuts without the tubes. Truck ran perfect until I blew a head gasket. Didn't change the fuel mileage at all, and gave it a little more pep. I drove it for over a year that way until I decided to twist it a little too tight one day lol...

Here's what I did...ran the vacuum advance line from the distributor to the carb over and with the brake lines that cross the firewall. Took all of the tees and Ports that had vacuum lines off and installed pipe plugs in their place...removed the canister from the driver fenderwell and the solenoids from the passenger fenderwell. Capped off the vent tube coming from the fuel tank...capped off all the vacuum Ports on the carb except for the one that goes to the distributor. then removed the egr valve and tube. Made a blockoff plate for the intake. Also removed the two tubes from the front of the manifold that went to the air

Don't know if you got this figured out or not, but my 38 came with the linkage already nutted to the shaft coming out the back of the carb...only problem was, it had to be flipped 180 so that the curvature is facing downward to the intake...I also used the bracket that came in the kit...it bolts to the intake same as the o.e. Bracket but has a slightly different bend. Now all is well!