Slow Loris

That’s a good guess. I had this happen to a wheel cyl I bought off Rockauto. A good reason at least to switch to a dual master even without discs!

Oh, well it was my first time using google so maybe that explains it.

Dang I wish I’d seen this before I hacked up my air cleaner…$45 isn’t bad. No cutting welding or goofing around required. Googled plenty before I made my own and it never came up, maybe it’s new? No I’m not getting a commission…maybe it’ll help someone Stock Datsun air cleaner to Weber adapter: https://www.californiadatsun.com/carburetor-parts/weber-32-36-dgev-adapter.html

Cool truck!

Whoever gets the credit, a perfect 10/10 on these keywords for the Craigslist ad…love it

Got the new speedo cable in and got promptly found the speed was off by quite a bit, I think because the speedometer needle was getting stuck—needle wouldn’t return to zero, so was resting at 20 mph and adding about that much on…a little case of FLACCID (Floppy, Low-Accuracy, Chronically Crusty Indicator of speeD) Cleaned it all up and still no dice. Having a few spare clusters around I figured I’d swap a new one in but…they all seemed to have that problem! So I was thinking if only I could get that little spring to have a little more Oomph it could pull itself back to zero… So I thought hmmm…if I just loosen this nut… and rotate the anchor for the spring about a quarter turn so it’s wound a little tighter, snug the nut back up…yea that oughta do it… BOIYOYOYOYOINGGG! Back to zero every time. Yup. That worked! Will it be dead-on accurate now? I sincerely doubt it but who cares! Now I have a case of HARD ON (Heavy Acceleration Reads Directly On iNdicator).

Then I think that explains some things. Makes perfect sense. Thanks! Chance you may have your thread back!

Yes I’m saying I have a disc/drum master (so presumably the weaker valve in front) but using it with drum/drum brake set up.

If I may borrow this thread for a moment, so if I seem to have put a master from a disc/drum truck on a drum/drum truck would I be missing out on the extra residual pressure provided by the drum residual valve? To the detriment of my front braking performance?

Okay I’m getting there. Drilled three holes for a #4 machine screw to pass through: added a 1/4” standoff: test fit for diameter: I think we are in business! I need to secure the screw to the wheel of course and the stand-off to the screw but the cap is tight. I think I’ll slam on a round spacer over top of the hex stand-off to make it even tighter on the cap but…I think this will work!

Ahhhh the answer was dumber than all these great ideas put together. Following your advice to check the backing plate I found a few bent lips here and there but THEN found THIS nestled in the inner lip glued in with grime and grease and brake dust: which appears to be an old spring?? God knows how long that was in there…perfectly contoured to the curve of the old drum no doubt…the new one just didn’t match. WHEW. Wheels spins quiet as a mouse now with the lugs on…adjusted just fine! Consider this one solved.

Copy that. A hammer was indeed involved a few months back to get the old drum off. I don’t think it’s shoe dragging drum so yeah, will investigate!

It spins with a pretty heavy scrape and some effort. It spins almost like it does when adjusted down pretty tight with the adjuster but…adjuster is all the way off. The parking brake is off though I wouldn’t say it’s “loose”, but the other side rear wheel spins freely at that tension. And it’s easy to slip the drum on so the shoe seems to be in an okay place. But that’s a good easy one to check…maybe the cable on that side is bound up, though I dunno why the effect would change with the lugs tight v. loose. Hmmm I seem to remember someone saying their aftermarket wheel cylinder rubbed their drum when cinched down tight…I ought to check that…

So I recently changed out my drums (and shoes) because the old ones were evidently quite warped (says the shop) which was explaining why adjusting them was very difficult. Got the new drums checked for balance and true—all good. However on my left rear wheel, when I pop on the drum and pop on the wheel and tighten lug nuts, the brake starts rubbing something fierce. Adjuster is backed all the way off, and it slides well. As near as I can tell the inside face of the wheel is flush with the drum, and it’s same wheels, same drums on all other wheels and don’t have this problem. Why would this be? What am I missing?

Perfect stance! Nice work!

Wow they make that look easy. Surely I can too. Okay yeah in absence of a rivet gun I’m gonna go with screw on clips, good call. Called wheel vintiques and they said they don’t have them anymore and recommended I buy their caps instead, but looks like plenty other suppliers out there. I will get over my fear of drilling wheels and post the results success or fail! Thank you for the emotional support.

Hmmm well I guess I see why the welder didn’t really wanna do it. Looks like it kinda sucks.

So amusingly enough my truck came equipped with 3 stock wheels (and 7 stock dog dish caps), which famously is not a useful number of wheels, and also a lot of caps. So I got these which I really like as a “wider stock wheel” option in 15” (wheel vintiques series 62): My measurements on the stock cap led me to believe they might fit before I ordered the wheels but of course they don’t quite fit. However, they would look good: Soooo I took it to a welder to add the nubs and he said he didn’t want to do it and that my caps would be flying off. He said go to a machinist and drill holes in the wheels instead to add the nubs. Something about drilling holes in wheels seems wrong, but maybe I need to get over it. Wheel vintiques does sell caps but they just aren’t right: Any thoughts on best option? Drilling holes in wheels okay? Find a new welder? Other ideas? And don’t worry, I’ve got the whitewalls ready.

Man all the free bins around me are just full of old ironing boards and fill dirt…definitely no Datsuns! Nice score!

Mmm yeah ok the sheath is torn open near the end. Time for new cable then. Graphite on the ferrule or into the sheath?

Ah okay thanks! Yes it would appear the key is still in there though I didn’t take it out to check if it is intact or look if it still spins—but first things first I’ll try this with the cable or get a new one. The cable has been disconnected at cluster since I bought the truck, now I know why.

hmmm me thinks there’s supposed to be something on the end of my speedo cable…

@Stitebunny Great idea, please advise how it works out…I think you asked my question before I even knew I had it.

I found on two separate occasions poor braking was because of leaky parts—one a master cylinder and another a wheel cylinder, both not super obvious. Lots of other places to leak and/or introduce air into the system too though. Maybe somewhere hidden your mechanic didn’t check. If you can’t bleed your way to a hard pedal, then you have a leak, or you are massively under-adjusted. Also make sure your adjusters can slide in the slot, it helps a lot I found. You CAN get good braking out of the drums!