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Stitebunny

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About Stitebunny

  • Rank
    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 06/19/1979

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Renton, Wa
  • Cars
    510's and Outback's
  • Occupation
    Auto Tech

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  1. Got it. That makes sense to me. Thanks for the explanation wayno. Sorry you had to figure it out the hard way. So I will plan to make a bypass circuit and forgo the intake heating for now at least. Appreciate the info and help you guys always have.
  2. So what I'm understanding is that none of this has anything to do with engine cooling system operation as far as keeping the engine in the proper temp range once warmed up? The bypass and manifold circuits are strictly for cold start driveability and getting to and maintaining a reasonable intake air/fuel temp? If none of it is installed, as Hainz has done, I should have no issues in mild weather except possibly a prolonged warm up phase which may have little effect? I guess I was thinking it all played into the greater cooling system circuit and may have adverse affects on normal engine running conditions.
  3. You don't agree about needing the bypass at all? The hole drilled in your tstat has been enough to keep it running normally? You could still run a bypass with sidedrafts. ..
  4. Time Left: 27 days and 2 hours

    • FOR SALE
    • NEW

    I am looking for parts to use on my L18. May be interchangeable with the others listed. Crankcase breather tube out of the block. I know this is different than the L16 part. L20B may be the same as I need. Coolant bypass hose from the thermostat housing to the lower hose connection. Not sure on the exact interchangeability on this. Please let me know if you may have something. Thanks

    NO VALUE SPECIFIED

    Renton, Washington - US

  5. Thanks for the info all. I can confirm there are no coolant holes in the manifold side of the head. I think I will leave the head alone for now. If that becomes an issue I will revisit that then. So to run a bypass hose, I need a line/pipe/hose going from the tstat housing (lower portion) over to the connection at the lower radiator hose connection fitting at the timing cover? Is that correct? Any chance someone here has the original line? I will submit an ad in the classifieds if not. Thanks again.
  6. I have searched quite a bit and have found some answers but looking for a couple more so asking for some help here. I am putting an L18 in my 510 wagon in place of the original L16. The L18 has an A87 head without the cooling ports on the manifold side. I understand this is from an engine that used the "stovepipe" manifold assembly. I'm planning on running a non stove pipe exhaust and the L16 intake with a Weber 32/36. Question 1, do I need to modify the head to be able to take advantage of the cooling system ports? Or will I be okay if the manifold isn't heated/cooled by cooling system. The car will be an occasional driver in a mild climate. Question 2, I don't have the thermostat by pass hose set up connecting the thermostat, intake manifold and radiator hose connection. If a thermostat with the little jiggle valve is used, is that sufficient enough to act as a large enough bypass for proper thermostat operation? What have some of you done with similar situations? Thanks
  7. Sounds good! that is the most unlooking 510 I have seen in a while though!
  8. Awesome! Thanks for the info. Much appreciated.
  9. Somewhat pertains to this thread so I will ask here. Good head gasket brands? have seen it said to buy a quality one and not cheap. But no options spoken about. What brands are quality? what should one pay for a quality part?
  10. Good tips thank you. Sounds like the A87 May be a better choice for what I’m looking for out of this.
  11. Thanks guys. Yes both are L18’s that have fully counter weighted cranks. The long block has a closed A87. Hopefully in better condition than the bottom end. Would that or a 219 be better to bolt on for street use? With the flat top pistons. The 219 has been shaved a bit so compression may be too high. Would need to measure to be sure. Not looking for all out performance as I just need an engine for now. And don’t have the money to spend. This will just be for a temporary occasional driver for a while.
  12. Ahh. Ok thanks. Didn’t think about that. Yes the block with the flat tops didn’t have a head. It was the freebie. Paid for the long block hoping it was a runner but found this. http:// maybe the rest of the short block is good and I will be able to salvage this project...
  13. Stitebunny

    Piston id help

    I took apart a couple of used l18 bottom ends I bought. I’m trying to figure out what parts are in them. I have a question on one set of the pistons. It measures out at 85.5 mm and indicates it is +0.50. The pin height is 38.1mm. It is a flat top with no dish. It doesn’t seem like that is a common one on the Jason Gray info page. http:// L20b piston (I think) on the right unknown on left http://
  14. Stitebunny

    Front struts

    I posted this in the classifieds first but thought it specifically applies to this forum as well and will hopefully be allowed. I am looking to buy a set of front struts for a 510. Just need a factory set to put on a car so I can sell it as a roller and be able to move it. Would prefer them to be complete from rotors to strut mount. I am in the Seattle, Wa area. Renton specifically. Not wanting to spend a lot. Hoping to find somebody who has an old set lying around from a previous upgrade. Thanks a lot
  15. This advert is COMPLETED!

    • WANTED
    • USED

    I am looking to buy a set of front struts for a 510. Just need a factory set to put on a car so I can sell it as a roller and be able to move it. Would prefer them to be complete from rotors to strut mount. I am in the Seattle, Wa area. Renton specifically. Not wanting to spend a lot. Hoping to find somebody who has an old set lying around from a previous upgrade. Thanks a lot

    NO VALUE SPECIFIED

    Renton - US

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