22350

The shoes have felt like they are energizing all day. Only when the drums heat up, does the car behave normally. Why does the manual show the leading shoe as being shorter??

Okay, This morning I checked the rears, after the adjustment last night. The rear right was too tight. The rear left was less tight. I did the drive in reverse and pull the parking brake. I also tried reverse and forward punching the peddle. No effect. When I drive, they get better, but still seem to be slightly energizing. Should the leading shoe be shorter? Is there a leading and trailing shoe for the rears? They appear to be identical. ........

Lot's of lube I have tried that, but will try again

here it is... about the same on both sides brakkkkkksss.mp4

Hello All. The old brake thread was so meandering that I wanted to start a new one, specifically related to what my last issue. Everying appears to be working normally now, except one thing. When I park the truck overnight, the rear brakes bind in the morning, until I drive the truck for 20 minutes. They are adjusted by going all the way tight and backing off 12 clicks. They are just barely touching when adjustment is finished and the car drives normally. The next morning they are sticking. This problem only started after replacing the adjuster retaining clips. The front brakes are adjusted the same way, but don't bind the next morning. Have solved the too tight parking brake cable Have solved the loose adjuster clips Having solved the master cyclinder check valve issue, including peddle preload.

Figured out the issue...... with the brakes The rebuild kit was not compatible with the original master cyclinder. The original must use the metal dome and not the rubber check valve. I switched the check valve cap with the cap from an aftermarket master cylinder I had (no rubber washer on check valve cap). Everything works perfectly now

bump @datzenmike

Just when i thought I was done..... OK.... more brake fun Brake drums in the rear were a bit too tight, but I would only notice drag in the morning. Today, when I tried to take off, they were dragging. I jacked the rear up and losened them. as I was pumping to center the shoes, the master cyclinder ran out of fluid. I topped it off and cracked the fitting on the tube, so make sure there was no air. The brake peddle was really low, but working. As I was driving, I had to punch the brakes hard. The peddle stuck at the top of the travel and i almost ran into the car in front of me. I bled all the brakes and readjusted the rears. When I punch the peddle with force, the master cyclinder still would bind, I removed the master cyclinder and took it apart. looks fine, but I have a question about the check valve. It has one side with multiple holes and the other side has a single hole. Which side faces up towards the brake fitting? I have attached a picture of a 520 kit. It is a bit different, but but similar

Well, the new clips stopped the clunking. Thanks for your help

sis this the correct order for the brake shims

So I have a new engine, new radiator, rebuilt carb, electronic ignition timed correctly, and running 91 octane gas. Why am I still getting pinging under load? Timing set to 10 degrees and advance working

So, I will let everyone know how this works out soon....

So I ended up going with the Pertronix MG Midget distributor 175 bucks. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001CMT6JQ?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details Bolted right in and turned over instantly. They also make a positive ground version for 275 Super easy install Thanks everyone for the replies

So I found someone that had four new shim kits and they are in the mail. Hopefully this solves the clunking so the order is: 1. shim 2. up curved clip 3. flat clip ??

None of mine have any shims. Just the clips. Are the kits available?

I only have the two clip parts. No shims

@wayno what british distributor work for the E1 engines?

So I bought a Pertronix 1741, just to discover that it doesn't fit the E1 distributor, but not before pulling everything apart. I have now ordered a FAST XR-700, which is a system I installed in the 90's and I recall it being pretty easy. I hate the extra box @wayno has a thread, where he was able to get the 1741 installed, but not without major mods to the plate. WAYNO POST Given that I really don't want to use the xr-700, can anyone tell me specifically which british distributor is a direct fit for the E1 engine? IS THIS ONE A CORRECT PART? Can anyone tell me if the original distributor cap fit the british unit? Thanks

yep

The master is rebuilt. We also pulled the splash shield from the reservoir and confirmed we are getting the little squirt out of the hole. There is slight play in the petal to pin, so no continued pressure on the master. Wheel cyclinders new drums new and turned once. springs new brake lines new brake hoses new The latest effort was to turn the adjustment all the way tight, intermitantly centering the shoes.... Then backing off the 12 clicks per the manual. I noticed that in one wheel the adjuster was resting slightly forward, and the shoe was touching a bit more, but not anything that would cause issues. Still getting a clunk intermittantly. We are pretty sure it is the adjuster sliding to the end of it's travel slot. The rest of the suspension is shit, but but i am pretty sure that this clunk is in the brakes.

The dust flanges definately have had their share of bending, but the plates look pretty good I did have the shoes backwards on the front, but that was corrected. This is the current situation: After the shoes where put on correctly, I had all the new drums turned. I also replaced all the springs. The adjustment was done, by stepping on the brakes to center, then tighten. I would alternate that process, until the wheels stopped. I then backed off until i got light contact, and a full 1.25 rotation. The shoes do not bind anymore, but the front right still seems to heat up about 20f more than the front left. They also tend to tug right, after driving a while. Here is my question: The manual indicates that the brakes should be tightened to stop and then backed off 12 clicks. Do I simply have the front brakes too tight? Are they warming up, because they are just not floating enough? Also, the suspension is still in bad shape. Could the slop in this be causing the problems?

They are on the front, but they are in correctly

So I am pulling the wheels again and I have replacement springs, so i am going to change them in the front Does the big spring go on the top of the bottom of the front wheels?