22350

There are some online threads with crossovers for parts in that range of engines. I got my pistons from ebay. You will need to get your engine apart, before you know what sizes you need for pistons and bearings. There is also a vendor in northern california who does complet rocker rack restoration for a couple hundred dollars ROCKER ARMS UNLIMITED Here is a link to the internet archive of the parts crossover (make sure to scroll down): CLICK THIS FOR PARTS Some limited stuff is available from forklift shops. There is some real specific notes on the valve guide seals. You can use modern ones for the intake, but the exhausts have to have the lose old style, which passes a bit more oil

Hey guys. I was having an issue with the rear seal on my new engine. I would have bet the house that the rope seal we put in was correct I looked through the threads and it is repeated over and over that the seal they are using is 3/8". I have attached a picture of the Best Gasket 3/8" rope seal and the groove it is going in, which is .234". That's not going in, but the groove is 3/8" deep. Also, the previous seal appeared to have too much clearance. Was able to get a feeler gauge in there Does anyone have a part number or description to get for this seal?

Are the rope seals that you have used the square graphite impregnated seals?

So is the roadster seal the same as the e1? Some are saying 3/8" graphite rope, but it is square and the roadster one doesn't appear square. Could it be the same as the jaguar?..... This image is from another build but it appears to be a roadster seal set

So, my E1 has less than 1000 miles on it. Everything is new. I have been struggling with an oil leak, which was messing with the clutch. We pulled the transmission "AGAIN" and ran the engine to find where it was really leaking from. It is the rear crank seal. The motor has a rope seal on the rear and it went in very well on the rebuild. Does anyone have any advice on what steps can be taken on the replacement, so that we are not just pulling everything out and putting back together for more leaking? What rope seals are you folks using? Is there a difference?

I finally gave up and pulled them. Turns out that there was a fray inside the right side housing. Having new ones made.

Truck is back together with all new front suspension. Makes a difference. Brakes are much better with greased brake cable housings Is it possible for this spring to be weak? Also, do the 521 Rear brake cable & housing fit the 320?

Here is the oil leak photos

Ok I need some internet magic... I have the suspension apart and have all the parts in hand, but have a couple of questions on that. 1. Does the tortion adjusting bolt pivot. (see picture) 2. How do the rubber dust covers get on to that part? The second issue is the damn oil leak. Pulled the clutch and tranmission rear plate. Oil doesn't appear to be making it to the clutch, but between the plate and engine it is everywhere. points of note: 1. Mechanic overfilled the engine by over a quart 2. Transmission plate gasket is wet all the way around, but from the outside. 3. Rear engine seal doesn't appear to be leaking 4. We can't find any oil dripping down from the top Could a leak in the oil pan gasket be getting "sucked up"? is there some sort of place, at the top of the engine that would leak if overfilled? OIL LEAK PHOTOS IN REPLIES Thanks guys.

Les Cannaday in Vista CA

found!!

Hello everyone. Looks like the only part I don't have is the left outer tie rod. Anyone have one kicking around?

When you say "rear axle" ... the truck wouldn't roll when put in nutral, if the differential was broken, or am i missing something?

We should have a pretty good idea, once we get the transmission out. At least it is happening at the same time as suspension

Truck rolls with the truck in nutral Transmission rebuilt with 120w oil and checked when this happened Differential rebuilt with 3.7 gears I filled the differential myself 6 weeks ago

You can push the truck in nutral. nothing is dragging. Can't engadge first.... overloads the clutch and stalls

We will know soon. Transmission coming out again....

Hello everyone. I just did a google search for kyb and started typing the nissan number off of the original shock and this came up. https://winstores.com/products/ws022558 I did a search for this and this kit came up https://www.ebay.com/itm/133732506827?chn=ps&mkevt=1&mkcid=28&srsltid=AR57-fB-3RFmyPQCrdushE7T5wQpi-9tvSEESmwcrk7k04OGVI7pKgAPK7A I am trying to find the specs on these shocks, but am I wrong in thinking these look pretty close?

It still has a slip yoke, the rear end is new. and you can push the truck around with one hand. Reverse seems to work normally. I have freeplay at the brake pedal. The push pin is the correct length. I have already confirmed that. The parking brake seems to have been the problem. The slight clutch chatter, on take off, might have been the trans starting to fail. I guess rebuilding it wasn't the safety move I thought.

I am thinking something in the transmission gave up. Sucks given the fact that I rebuilt it

The plot thickens..... I used penetrating oil to work the parking brake cabe, which was moving, back and forth. I then tested to make sure the lever was retracting all the way. This seemed to improve the binding issue. So I took the truck to a suspension place I know and had them put a grease gun on the housings. This seemed to make everything almost normal. I did notice a little chatter on take off. VERY SLIGHT. So slight that I could almost attribute it to overthinking the peddle. Then, when I was almost home, i downshifted at a light and the clutch started chattering like a wheel was locked. I got the truck the last block and could barely get it into the driveway. The clutch couldn't overcome whatever was stuck I jacked it up and all the wheels are free. For reference Rebuilt e1 engine New clutch Rebuilt Transmission New throw out bearing New motor mounts New drive shaft and ujoints Rebuilt rear end with new ring and pinion at 3.9 New drums New wheel cyclinders new brake springs

Checked the fronts and they are fine I pulled the drums again. I checked the parking brake for being over tight, which it wasn't. Then I checked the movement of the parking brake lever. It appeared fine, BUT I went ahead and lubricated the cable with penetrating oil and I exercised it back and forth spraying penetrating oil down the housing. I checked that the parking brake levers were retracting all the way. This seemed to make the problem much better, but it still feels like it is energizing slightly This is so strange

Well, that wasn't it. Went to drive this morning and the same issue. Wheels feel tight and the clutch is chattering under load taking off. Rather than drive it, I pulled the drums again. THE DRUMS WERE NOT TIGHT, THEY SLIPPED RIGHT OFF. This has to be some sort of "energizing" Pictures attached Left Rear Right Rear Right Rear

New post to “celebrate”?????? The rear left was obviously binding. So I ripped everything apart again. The rear right adjuster was stuck. I had already addressed the adjusters before., but had been driving it with the extremely lose locking clips. I think the brake dust got into the grease and when I put the new clips on, the contamination froze that adjuster. pulled, inspected the backing plate,cleaned and greased. Took a test drive and we will see how this pans out. Thanks to @datzenmike for the help. Will report back