bluexl

Hey Everyone, I am looking to install new A/C hoses on my 1984 Nissan Sunrader 720. They were removed by the previous owner along with the A/C bracket and Compressor, the condenser and the dryer. I have sourced a new dryer, new condenser, pulled a bracket and compressor from Pick Your Parts, but I can't find anyone that has hoses, so I assume they are all discontinued.

"Photo 1" below is from my 84' 4x4 King Cab, but the set up would be the same as the Sunrader and I marked the Hose that goes from the firewall to the compressor as "1" and the hose that goes from the compressor to the dryer as "2".

I did pull the hoses from the truck that I took the compressor from, but they are from a 86' D21 (marked as a 720) with a z24 engine and hose "1" rubs up against the steering shaft (I can probably bend it) and hose 2 will not work with the 84" 720 condenser.

Does anyone know if the universal style hoses that only have one mounting bolt for the compressor would work? The original hoses have two mounting bolts for the compressor as shown on photo 2.

I saw a 95-97 a/c suction line that looks pretty close to hose 2, so I was just wondering if anyone knew of a different year or model hose that would work on this application.

Photo 1.

Photo 2.

Thanks everyone.

--BlueXL

8 hours ago, datzenmike said:

2wd and 4wd torsion bars are different.

 

Indexing the torsion bar is removing it from it's present position in the lower control arm and moving it one or more splines and putting it back together. In the new position you will have more adjustment range for lifting (or lowering) the ride height.

I was able to reindex following the advice on a couple of posts on here.

This one: 

https://ratsun.net/topic/66249-lifting-the-front-end/

And this one:

https://ratsun.net/topic/78876-720-ball-joint-spacer-and-torsion-bar-reindex/

I moved the torsion bar 2 splines on each side as the single spline was tightened A LOT, but still had a significant amount of positive camber. So I went with 2 splines and it still has some positive camber, but not crazy, just not sure how much can be seen in the photos. I can still tighten the adjustment bolts, so I was just wondering what "maximum" might mean. I can definitely tighten it more though. But thought it rides fine on streets and highways, the guy at the allignment shop told me that the suspension was "non existent" like it didnt have any bounce. It is rough off road, but I mean, its off road, so I thought it was understandable.

So, my two needs of advice are:

1. Should I look into upgrading my torsion bars to see if it helps with the "non existant" suspension? (What options are out there for 2WD?)

2. Is it ok to crank the torsion bars (tighten the adjustment) as much as it will go to completely fix the positive camber?

Thanks in advance for any input.

Hey everyone, I was wondering if the 2WD and 4WD torsion bars were interchangeable on 1984 720s.

This link is for a 2WD torsion bar, but in the "What this fits" section it also lists the 4WD.

This is the torsion bar that I am REALLY interested in, but not sure if it would fit our 1984 720 2WD Nissan Sunrader: https://www.4x4parts.com/i-18915108-720-torsion-bars.html

I installed these ball joint spacers and it says that it requires "Maximum re-indexing," so what exactly does that mean? I have them pretty tight now, and I have taken it to be aligned, but it still has some positive camber. The torsion is not cranked all the way, so I wonder if "maximum re-indexing" means that I tighten till the camber is gone.

Don't know how visible the camber is based on the photos below, but wanted to include them.

Thanks!

I got lucky and found the 3 wheels (2 front wheels and one spare) as well as the lugnuts on a 720 RV at my local junk yard. It had rained for a week a few days prior, and the RV just happened to be located in the one part of the junkyard that got flooded. We used some lose tires that still had air as rafts while we manuevered to get the 3 wheels, but we had to come back once it dried up to find the lugnuts. Luckily all 12 of them were there burried in mud, but they sure did clean up pretty well as you can see from the pics. The axle and drums were gone by the time I came upon it. It still had some great condition 84' tan seats that I now wish I would have pulled, but at the time I knew NOTHING about Datsun/Nissans. Now I still know next to nothing, but I'm learning. The old school machinists were definitely artists thats for sure.

I am not sure what the Sunraider weighs, though I did research it at one point when I was buying the Maxxis tires. I can't recall it at the moment, and it varied based on the gray/black tanks and propane. I will have to look it up again and retain the info.

3 hours ago, wayno said:

I believe that all 520/521/620/720 truck frame leaf spring widths are the same width wise, the axle itself is wider as the years have passed but the perches are the same width apart.

The dually axle is a C200, the C200 only came with a limited number of gear ratios, I myself have only seen the 4.3 and 4.6 gear ratios, I heard there was a 4.8 gear ratio, that said I believe that you can put the 4.1 gear ratio in the dually axle as the later 4wd 720s also came with a C200 axle and they also had the 4.1 gear ratio, now I broke a shaft and ovaled the hole for the shaft in the carrier of my 4.3 in my dually and I found a 4wd with a C200 and I pulled the carrier and put it in my dually axle and it worked, so I believe the 4.1 will fit in the dually axle if you can find a good ring/pinion set, Nissan also told me there was a 4.1 ratio for the axle when I bought a set of dually axle drums from them(last ones in the USA), they also had dually axle lug nuts but they were expensive.

 

I have no plans on putting a dually rim on the front of my 720, I do not drive it anymore so I do not see the point, mine has a diesel engine anyway and need 3.5 or 3.3 gear ratios and that is why I had my adapters made, what did you pay for them adapters bluexl?

This is great info @wayno. I had no idea all those gear ratios exited for the Nissan diallies. Ours is a 1984 Sunrader (Mini RV) and it came with the dually rear setup. I wnde what the gear ratio on ours is.

The adapters were $200 each side, so $400 total. They are aircraft grade alluminum, and hub & lug centric.

I always wondered how I would ever find a set of drums if I were to need them, so hope NOT to need them. LOL.

@wayno& @datzenmike,

Just wanted to update this post. Images below are of the adapters that Motor Sport Tech custom build for us. So far, they are working great.

I do wonder if the dually rearend will mate to a same year 4x4 720. Does anyone know if someone has done this?...Maybe that is another thread though.

On 5/21/2021 at 12:47 PM, datzenmike said:

The dielectric grease is now close to 40 years old and dried and caked on and has attracted a lot of dirt. Get a can of spray electrical contact cleaner and wash it down while turning the light switch on and off rapidly.  You might be able to do this with it installed.

The sparay electrical contact cleaner did the job. I did remove the steering column as I wanted to put some plastic touchup paint on it, but the emergenzy/hazard lights worked perfect once I cleaned the switch per your suggestion. THANK YOU!

51 minutes ago, datzenmike said:

That's the plug for the variable wiper delay. The stalk that the wiper switch is on has a twist variable resistance on the end to set the amount of delay. Most just have a built in delay of a few seconds.

So, there SHOULD be something plugged in to it, or is that only for a model that came with that option? Sorry if that is a stupid question, just wonder if there is a scenario where this plug is left s is with nothing pluged to it.

Thank you for the help.

Can anyone tell what this plug is spposed to connect too? It is part of the wiring loom that connects to the turn signal and the back of the steering wheel. I am in the process of troubleshooting my hazard lights not working (other post), but when I removed the steering colums  cover I saw this plug not conncted to anything.

Thanks.

2 hours ago, MGTS said:

I was having the same problem. The flasher relay under the steering wheel could be bad. My problem was the switch itself on the steering column. Take the steering column cover off and remove the switch. Open the switch box and clean all the electrical contacts  

You know I have been wanting to take the steering wheel cover off to spray it with a plastic paint, but was not sure if it was just held on by screws or if there was something else to be mindful of. Any thoughts on removing the steering box so that I can clean and test this part? I will use the one from the other truck to see if I can get it to work since I know that one is good.

Thanks.

20 hours ago, NC85ST said:

Sounds like the switch to me. I’ve had issues with the switch in the past. Sometimes it would kill my turn signals all together.

Is this the switch you are referencing? I can't seem to find new ones.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/80-84-Nissan-Datsun-Pickup-Truck-Hazard-Switch-Button-Niles-16003-OEM-Factory-/313503217498?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286

On 5/14/2021 at 4:17 PM, datzenmike said:

Have a look for a bulb not flashing properly on turn signal or anything odd or different between the two sides.

 

Try the running lights.... do they all look equally bright?

 

I suspect that one of the filaments has broken and jumped over onto the other filament on a double bulb and welded itself onto it. It will be on the side that flashes faster is my guess. This might fix the 4 way if not we'll try something else.

Thank you for the response. I have new hazard flasher and new turn signal flasher that I just put in over the weekend. This is for my 720 Sunrader. The Hazard Flasher was definitely bad as I tried it in my 4x4 King Cab (which works fine all around) and the emergency lights stopped working on it. The new turn signal flasher took care of the fast vs slow blinking in the Sunrader. The hazard lights however still do not work.

Hey Everyone. I looked through the topics and didnt see anything about just the Hazard Lights not working. My turn signals work fine, though one of the sides blinks fast and the other at a regular speed. But my hazards do not come on at all.

Does that sound like it is the flasher that needs replacing?

Thanks.

6 hours ago, thisismatt said:

You got lucky.  Kelmo's concerns are still valid. If you read that seller's detailed reviews there are a lot of bad reviews from buyers not receiving oem parts.  Buying "new" parts from Amazon or ebay is hit or miss at best unless you pay close attention, and then you still take a risk sometimes.

 

Did you order all 4 or just 2?

I got all 4.

Ok, I reindexed each side. Left side (driver's side) went clockwise ONE click, and Right side (passenger side) went counter clockwise one click. I tightened both side to get the tires even. However, the left torsion bar is significantly tighter than the right in order to match height and even out the camber. Is that normal?

If not, is it possible one side needed 2 clicks and the other just one?

Thanks.

45 minutes ago, KELMO said:

One other thing to note; On the label it indicates that these were a "VOR" order which means they paid freight to get them from Nissan.

Did they whack you on freight?

They were $12.39 each with free shipping on Amazon Prime.

3 minutes ago, KELMO said:

OK, I will stand corrected. 

Legit picking label (the white one) with dealer code and all.

Now I have to call my factory rep and ask him WTF.

 

Very glad to see you got OEM.

I appreciate the message of using caution when ordering parts. Glad it worked out this time. I will post an image to the Amazon site so others are aware.

16 hours ago, KELMO said:

Do not want to be that guy but....

I seen this post yesterday morning and the link posted seemed odd to me. The statement that the bushings are OEM and at the price listed are questionable at best.

The claim of OEM and the price piqued my interest. And, no picture of the product. The price they have is almost a dollar under Nissan Dealer Net and I think it was stated in this thread that they are still available through Nissan ( I think the number was close to 100 still available). My question is how can an Aftermarket Distributor carry OEM parts and retail them at a lower price than a dealer can buy them at?

I am not putting this out there to be a "Davey Downer" but as a cautionary tale to make sure what you are buying is really what you think you are buying

 

I've said it before and I will say it again. If anyone needs help finding part #'s and checking availability, I am more that happy to help. Just send me a PM. I may be a little slow but I will get to it.

The part came in. I have a black Polyurethane set to compare the "OEM" new rubber ones too. Hope this is useful.

55 minutes ago, datzenmike said:

 

Someone should 3D print them.

I found these. 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Genuine-Nissan-Cover-Dust-Torsion-Bar-Front-540332S400-54033-2S400-OEM-/124279455738?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49292

26 minutes ago, datzenmike said:

Remove the top one out of the way. Loosen the bottom nut till the anchor separates from the bolt.

 

Hang on. You're lifting the front end????(most lower so easy to mix it up)

 

If raising, remove the LEFT torsion bar rotate it 1 or 2 splines CLOCKWISE.

 

To raise the RIGHT side, remove the torsion bar, and turn 1 or 2 splines counter clockwise and re-install.

 

 

 

You can leave the C clip off till you get it where you want it for height. This will save you having to remove again to turn another spline, don't forget it though.

Thanks!

Any idea where I can find new torsion bar dust covers? One of mine was missing and the other disintegrated when I removed it.

OK, just want to make sure I do this right.

I loosen the adjusting nuts first.How much do I loosen it, or do I remove it?

Then I remove the boot and C ring.

I mark the location so that I know where I am starting from.

I pull the bar away from the control arms.

I rotate the bar two clicks and re install the bar into the control arms.

I reinstall the boot and the c ring.

Then, how much do I tighten the adjusting nut?

Thanks!

29 minutes ago, datzenmike said:

Lift the truck to take the weight off the torsion bars. If facing the front the bar is pulled backwards out of the lower control arm and turned counter clockwise a spline. (maybe 2) With the front wheel hanging by it's own weight, this will turn the torsion bar closer to the anchor bolt and make it easier to connect. Do both sides and tighten the bolts the same amount of threads. Set down and bounce the front end to equalize the suspension and check. When done don't forget to tighten the  locking bolt on the anchor.

As always, thank you for your help MIke.

1 hour ago, Lockleaf said:

If you get under the truck and look at how they twist you will see which direction you need to go.  they go opposite directions, so in answer to clockwise or counterclockwise, the answer is yes.  It just depends on which side you are working on.

2 splines will likely get you all the lift you need.  There is a pretty wide range of adjustment on each spline, just depending on how much you tighten the lead screw for the torsion bar. Because weight is different and springs settle and weaken at different rates, the best you can do is try two splines, see what happens, and be prepared to change it if necessary.  Don't set the ride height by how far you tighten the spring.  Set ride height using some point on the body and adjust spring tension until its where you want it.

Camber is highly affected by torsion bar position, however, that is not the only camber adjustment on the vehicle.  You can use spacers on the upper control arm to change camber as well, up to a point.  So if you can't get perfect camber at your desired ride height, you may still be able to achieve it through other methods.

Thank you SO much! This is great help.

Hi all,

I recently added a “ball joint lift” and a rear “Add-A-Leaf” to my 1984 Nissan 720 Sunrader. It is 2WD and I just needed about a 2 ½ inch lift.

The ball joint lifts are 1”, but I am supposed to reindexand adjust the torsion bar for the other 1.5 inches of lift.

 What I wanted to ask is do I turn the torsion bar clockwise or counter-clockwise if I am facing the front of the truck? Also is it just one spline or 2 (or more) that would allow me to get to the 1.5” inches?

I could not find the info I was looking for, but this post was very helpful: https://ratsun.net/topic/66249-lifting-the-front-end/

Also, when I added the ball joint lift I also put in new upper and lower ball jointx, new tire rods, new sway bar bushings, and a new idler arm. So hopefully the torsion bar adjustment will help with the camber. I will additionally need to adjust the tie rods as the wheels do not align, but I will probably address this in another post.

Thanks!

Hey Everyone, I Just wanted to post an update. I ordered the OEM NIssan bushings from Amazon. Everything else I found at my local parts stores which are NAPA, Autozone, O'reiley's and Parts Authority oly had the blue Polyurethane. So I will post a photo of the part once it arrives.

This was the link: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00F66U526/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_image_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Thanks for all the helpful responses.