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lifting the front end


datson35

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This works for lowering or raising the front end. Tighten the adjustment to raise the front.

 

 

 

 


Loosen top lock nut and turn bottom to adjust. Easier to do with vehicle raised. Adjust both equally and lower truck to compare heights. Bounce suspension before measuring.

torsion_bar.jpg


You can simply turn the adjustment nuts at the rear for lowering. The C clips are only removed if you run out of adjustment and need to slide the torsion bar back to disconnect the front spline in the lower control arm. This allows you to reposition the torsion bar into a lower adjustment range and is called indexing the bar. I would avoid this if possible as lowering this amount is well outside the suspension ride height limits and the camber is badly affected. All ride height changes will also change the toe setting.


Bleach said:

How to Reindex Torsion Bars

in front of the middle crossmember, you pull the boot forward to reviel the lock ring

rebuild62.jpg

Work a thin screwdriver into the edge of the ring. It will be tight. I had to work the angle back and forth while occasionally tapping the back of the handle with a hammer

rebuild63.jpg

Once you get under the ring, work it out slightly. Do not pull the screwdriver away or the ring will pop back on

rebuild64.jpg

After you have worked it off part way, use some pliers to pull the ring off the rest of the way. Be sure to still keep the screwdriver under the lock ring

rebuild65.jpg

Tap the rear arm of that holds the adjuster bolt out of the crossmember. Hang onto the torsion bar. It can slide out at either end. I was able to feel the splines in the end of the bar and I moved it two notches. edit:(but you only want to move it one notch!) The reindexed bar is on the right.

rebuild70.jpg

after the bar is reindexed, just hold the lock ring up and hit the back of the ring with a hammer. It pops on real easy. Put the dust boot back

rebuild66.jpg
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You will need an alignment afterwards.

 

This is for 83 and later 4x4 720s

Assuming you don't need to re index them to achieve the lift you need, you just need to get under the truck, and look for the adjuster. It's at the end of the torsion bar. Then you loosen the jam nut which should be a 18mm. Then get a 19 mm box end wrench and put it on the other nut. Hit the bolt with an impact until desired height is reached, tighten the jam nut, repeat on other side. It will settle a bit lower then you set it initially. You may have to re adjust it a bit.

 

Then get an alignment and put on the new tires.

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My first Datsun was an 81 4x4 with no lift, running 31's. Only time it rubbed was turning into an uphill driveway. I had 205's on the front of my current 2wd without rubbing, but now I'm at 225's lowered 3 inches and it rubs like crazy... I got the rims and tires as a package or I would've done smaller.

30's should do fine.

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  • 5 years later...

Ok, I reindexed each side. Left side (driver's side) went clockwise ONE click, and Right side (passenger side) went counter clockwise one click. I tightened both side to get the tires even. However, the left torsion bar is significantly tighter than the right in order to match height and even out the camber. Is that normal?

 

If not, is it possible one side needed 2 clicks and the other just one?

 

Thanks.

 

51037551351_46de48eef6_c.jpg

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No 720 I've ever owned rode level if i set the torsion bars to the same height.  I've always set my torsion bar tension by matching the ride height itself from side to side.  I don't know if it's spring "sag" or what, but I've never had them identical.

 

Yes one side could need more especially since you don't know the history of the vehicle but if it ride level before they likely need matching reindexing.

 

I would say if it rides level and doesn't feel like the it wanders hard during spring compression,you are ok.

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