720 Ball Joint Spacer and Torsion Bar Reindex

[bluexl]

Hi all,

 

I recently added a “ball joint lift” and a rear “Add-A-Leaf” to my 1984 Nissan 720 Sunrader. It is 2WD and I just needed about a 2 ½ inch lift.

The ball joint lifts are 1”, but I am supposed to reindexand adjust the torsion bar for the other 1.5 inches of lift.

 What I wanted to ask is do I turn the torsion bar clockwise or counter-clockwise if I am facing the front of the truck? Also is it just one spline or 2 (or more) that would allow me to get to the 1.5” inches?

 

I could not find the info I was looking for, but this post was very helpful: https://ratsun.net/topic/66249-lifting-the-front-end/

 

Also, when I added the ball joint lift I also put in new upper and lower ball jointx, new tire rods, new sway bar bushings, and a new idler arm. So hopefully the torsion bar adjustment will help with the camber. I will additionally need to adjust the tie rods as the wheels do not align, but I will probably address this in another post.

 

Thanks!

[Lockleaf]

If you get under the truck and look at how they twist you will see which direction you need to go.  they go opposite directions, so in answer to clockwise or counterclockwise, the answer is yes.  It just depends on which side you are working on.

2 splines will likely get you all the lift you need.  There is a pretty wide range of adjustment on each spline, just depending on how much you tighten the lead screw for the torsion bar. Because weight is different and springs settle and weaken at different rates, the best you can do is try two splines, see what happens, and be prepared to change it if necessary.  Don't set the ride height by how far you tighten the spring.  Set ride height using some point on the body and adjust spring tension until its where you want it.

Camber is highly affected by torsion bar position, however, that is not the only camber adjustment on the vehicle.  You can use spacers on the upper control arm to change camber as well, up to a point.  So if you can't get perfect camber at your desired ride height, you may still be able to achieve it through other methods.

[datzenmike]

Lift the truck to take the weight off the torsion bars. If facing the front the bar is pulled backwards out of the lower control arm and turned counter clockwise a spline. (maybe 2) With the front wheel hanging by it's own weight, this will turn the torsion bar closer to the anchor bolt and make it easier to connect. Do both sides and tighten the bolts the same amount of threads. Set down and bounce the front end to equalize the suspension and check. When done don't forget to tighten the  locking bolt on the anchor.

[bluexl]

1 hour ago, Lockleaf said:

If you get under the truck and look at how they twist you will see which direction you need to go.  they go opposite directions, so in answer to clockwise or counterclockwise, the answer is yes.  It just depends on which side you are working on.

2 splines will likely get you all the lift you need.  There is a pretty wide range of adjustment on each spline, just depending on how much you tighten the lead screw for the torsion bar. Because weight is different and springs settle and weaken at different rates, the best you can do is try two splines, see what happens, and be prepared to change it if necessary.  Don't set the ride height by how far you tighten the spring.  Set ride height using some point on the body and adjust spring tension until its where you want it.

Camber is highly affected by torsion bar position, however, that is not the only camber adjustment on the vehicle.  You can use spacers on the upper control arm to change camber as well, up to a point.  So if you can't get perfect camber at your desired ride height, you may still be able to achieve it through other methods.

Thank you SO much! This is great help.

[bluexl]

29 minutes ago, datzenmike said:

Lift the truck to take the weight off the torsion bars. If facing the front the bar is pulled backwards out of the lower control arm and turned counter clockwise a spline. (maybe 2) With the front wheel hanging by it's own weight, this will turn the torsion bar closer to the anchor bolt and make it easier to connect. Do both sides and tighten the bolts the same amount of threads. Set down and bounce the front end to equalize the suspension and check. When done don't forget to tighten the  locking bolt on the anchor.

As always, thank you for your help MIke.

[bluexl]

OK, just want to make sure I do this right.

 

 

I loosen the adjusting nuts first.How much do I loosen it, or do I remove it?

 

Then I remove the boot and C ring.

 

I mark the location so that I know where I am starting from.

 

I pull the bar away from the control arms.

 

I rotate the bar two clicks and re install the bar into the control arms.

 

I reinstall the boot and the c ring.

 

Then, how much do I tighten the adjusting nut?

 

Thanks!

[datzenmike]

Remove the top one out of the way. Loosen the bottom nut till the anchor separates from the bolt.

 

Hang on. You're lifting the front end????(most lower so easy to mix it up)

 

If raising, remove the LEFT torsion bar rotate it 1 or 2 splines CLOCKWISE.

 

To raise the RIGHT side, remove the torsion bar, and turn 1 or 2 splines counter clockwise and re-install.

 

 

 

You can leave the C clip off till you get it where you want it for height. This will save you having to remove again to turn another spline, don't forget it though.

[bluexl]

26 minutes ago, datzenmike said:

Remove the top one out of the way. Loosen the bottom nut till the anchor separates from the bolt.

 

Hang on. You're lifting the front end????(most lower so easy to mix it up)

 

If raising, remove the LEFT torsion bar rotate it 1 or 2 splines CLOCKWISE.

 

To raise the RIGHT side, remove the torsion bar, and turn 1 or 2 splines counter clockwise and re-install.

 

 

 

You can leave the C clip off till you get it where you want it for height. This will save you having to remove again to turn another spline, don't forget it though.

 

Thanks!

 

Any idea where I can find new torsion bar dust covers? One of mine was missing and the other disintegrated when I removed it.

[weldingrod]

I have an 85 720 4x4 with a broken torsion bar. Looks like I will have to start from scratch with the broken one. How do I even figure out where to start the procedure as far as new torsion bar install position?

 

[datzenmike]

About 1/4 the way down...

 

 

[datzenmike]

15 hours ago, bluexl said:

 

Thanks!

 

Any idea where I can find new torsion bar dust covers? One of mine was missing and the other disintegrated when I removed it.

 

Someone should 3D print them.

[bluexl]

55 minutes ago, datzenmike said:

 

Someone should 3D print them.

 

I found these. 

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Genuine-Nissan-Cover-Dust-Torsion-Bar-Front-540332S400-54033-2S400-OEM-/124279455738?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49292

[datzenmike]

54033-2S400 are for '98 and up 2 and 4 wd D22U Hardbody and 2000 and up Xterra. Unknown if they will fit the 720/620

 

54033-B5003

54033-B5103.... are for 2 and 4 wd 720s and earlier 620.

[Lockleaf]

FWIW the star bolt inside the control arm is the same from 720 thru xterra so it wouldn't surprise me if the boots also fit.

[bottomwatcher]

19 hours ago, Lockleaf said:

FWIW the star bolt inside the control arm is the same from 720 thru xterra so it wouldn't surprise me if the boots also fit.

Star bolt? Are you referring to the splines on the end of the torsion bar? If my foggy memory is correct I think the limiting factor on making heavy duty bars was the size of section of the splined part of the shaft. You couldn't make a bar thicker than the spline section or it would shear at the splines. Like I said it's been a while but it makes sense.

Also I was wandering around with a clutch alignment tool and stuck it in one of my 4x4 hubs and it was a perfect fit. Just a little useless info.

[Lockleaf]

I refer to the lower control arm bolt, the head of which shares the splined pattern of the torsion bar.  Since the bolts match, the splines also match, making it likely the diameters are the same and that the boots are similar enough to function.