RLJ

My mistake. The pans I have look like the whole sump is shifted towards the front.

That picture looks like the pan of the 510 I looked at with the drain plug location in the middle of the sump. My other pans have a much larger notch in the rear of the pan for the steering gear. Like the whole sump area is shifted more towards the rear. Going to be looking for one like in the picture with a pick up.

Was told the one I have wasn’t from a 510. The front off the sump area was beat in. Was told that probably done to clear the front cross member. I looked at the one that was in the car when I got it and it pretty much looked the same. From what you’re saying it’s tough to see the difference if they were side by side. I do have the pick up tube. Looked under a lowered 510 that I could barely see the oil pan and did notice drain plug was in the bottom of the pan sump not the rear like the ones I have. Is that the correct one for a 510?

Anybody have a picture of a stock oil pan for a 1968-73 510? Trying to determine if the one I have is the correct one.

What would the compression ratio be with a U67 head and L28 flattop pistons?

MLS is multi layered steel. Not sure what MLR is, maybe a typo? Pretty sure you can still get Cometic to make you something but you have to call them.

Matt, Went to the Sprite forum but couldn’t find anything. Saw your post about the Datsun air filter on a K&N thread but that was about it. Can’t find whose looking for a Datsun housing and backing plate. I also have a new pair of billet SU stub stacks for utilizing K&N filters that I didn’t use. They are for the 1-1/2” SU carbs. Was going to use them inside my air filters from Pierce but they were a little to big and used different ones.

Got this with a project that I have no use for. Have the back plate that bolts to the carbs and the cover housing. Both are in good shape. Anybody have any interest in them?

Funny yes! It was the middle of winter coming down Hiway 50 in a customers car returning from a gambling binge at South Lake Tahoe. Customer was waiting at the shop when he showed up. Needless to say he was not happy at all. I had the shop next door and saw him arrive with a ski mask on, snow and icicles hanging off his face and a cigarette in his mouth. Will never forget that sight!

Have you seen this one? https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/articles/2000-datsun-510-cannonball-run-history/ A friend built a Cobra kit car and had to go to CHP for vehicle inspection before registering in California. He was told wipers were not required by law and didn’t put any in the car. Passed CHP registration inspection. Another tidbit is that a windshield is not legally required. At least that’s what was told to a someone by CHP after hitting a deer and the windshield was busted. Officer said he couldn’t drive the car with the busted windshield due to visibility. He asked what about no windshield and officer said that was okay. So he kicked the busted windshield out and drove the car home!

These were completely flat with no valve reliefs. Would they be L28 pistons? When you say 9.9 needs higher octane do you mean pump premium, which here in California is 91, or higher?

When you say if L28 pistons then slightly lower compression, why if it’s a flat top piston? Is the pin height different and it sits below the deck at TDC?

Don’t know what the pistons are from. Stuck a camera in the spark plug hole and see their flat tops. Engine was rebuilt before I got it and don’t know exact build specs. Could be a rebuild oversize bore, but wouldn’t think much. First or second oversize. Been chasing pinging. Modified distributor mechanical advance to 10* at the distributor, 20* at the crank. Want to set initial timing at 12-14* but get pinging and have to retard timing 4-6*. Running SU’s and runs great as far as the carbs go at 12*. Losing a bit with the retarded timing. Been reading about the U67 head being prone to pinging on many different engine combinations. So wondering if it’s just the U67 head.

What would the compression be on an L20b with flat top pistons and a U67 open chamber cylinder head? What would it be with a closed chamber 219 head?

Does anybody know the purpose of the troughs cast in the head by the spark plug in the combustion chamber. See them in most Datsun L series heads. The head I’m working on now has them on cylinder 2 and 3. The one in this photo has them on cylinder 1 and 4. On heads like in the photo, the trough exposes the edge of the seat insert in the trough leaving a sharp edge. Would think it could create a hot spot.

Here you go Matt. https://www.ebay.com/itm/126122209747?mkevt=1&mkpid=2&emsid=e90001.m2368.l2649&plmtId=700009&mesgId=3041&mkcid=8&ch=osgood&bu=43162866692&trkId=94c08671-9698-4441-a9ee-edbc495431a1&cnvId=700003&recoId=126122209747&recoPos=1

What is a 912 head or did you mean 219?

Only filled up to the fill hole. Didn’t notice anything obvious on the yoke seal area. Did put synthetic oil in. Do you really think synthetic oil by itself could be causing the leak? Going to pull the driveshaft again for closer inspection. When the driveshaft was removed before to replace the seal it looked like it was a new seal. Was leaking with non synthetic oil then. Thinking the oil is leaking down the splines in the yoke and a flaw in the yoke allowing the leak. Could this be?

5 speed transmission from a 280z. Tail-shaft is leaking. Put a new seal in and no change, still leaking. No excessive bushing play. Anybody ever seen the driveshaft yoke leak?

hainz, Had already run with vacuum advance disconnected and it eliminated the part throttle pinging at cruise. Mike, Swapped the vacuum advance pot from the D4A2-01 onto the matchbox I’ve been running. What a difference! No more cruise pinging, much better acceleration and better overall running. The vacuum advance specs are completely controlled by the vacuum advance pot and amount of advance is not adjustable at all unless you took the unit apart which would destroy it. As I mentioned in my previous post, I’ve read where if you grind the epoxy nub off the pot there’s a set screw in there that can adjust the amount of vacuum required to activate it. Didn’t want to mess with that without someway of knowing how much things were changing. Car is running great now with no pinging.

Correct again Mike. I left out a number when typing. It is B9900. It has the least amount of vacuum advance movement and is require the most vacuum to activate. Which seems correct for the application with a lot of load you said it’s listed for. The B9802 has the most amount of advance and requires the least amount of vacuum to activate. This is the one that’s giving me the off idle pinging while cruising I’m experiencing. The D4A2-01 seems to be in the middle between the three as far as the vacuum advance. Just applying suction to the vacuum pot and observing movement. No definitive testing to get accurat readings. Someone local has a distributor machine but it can’t do EI distributors, only points. Guess I have to play swapping distributors. Seems the points one would be a good choice but have buy a coil and ballast resistor to try it. The web.archive.org site that has Electronic Ignition Distributer FAQ for Datsun L-series Engines talks about adjusting the vacuum pot to change amount of vacuum required to activate. Don’t know if I want to venture down that road without any accurate way to see what changes it’s doing.

Also if you return anything it has to go back to each individual warehouse that the parts came from. Was going to do a return and the total for return shipping was more then the cost of the parts. Still have those parts on a shelf!

Thanks Mike. Can’t find any 22100-***** number stamped in the D4A2-01 distributor. Also have this distributor. D4F7-02, 22100-B900. Can’t find it in the distributor list. It’s a EI distributor with the separate box, not matchbox. Trying to work out best distributor for my use. I read the matchbox is best but it this one has the worst vacuum advance coming in too early and too much, causing part throttle pinging when cruising.

Yes! Then they charge a separate shipping charge for each location. Shipping can get expensive at RockAuto. Im going to try this the next time too.

D4A2-01 312 Cant find any other identifying numbers. It’s a larger cap distributor. What it came out of would help. Would be great to have the mechanical and vacuum advance numbers. Can’t find it in the distributor list datzenmike has referenced here before. Do you know if the vacuum pot from a point distributor interchanges with a matchbox distributor?