Richie

well thanks for scaring me now mike hahaha

is 180 degrees at idle enough to burn the fuel off the crank?

yea, but then you got wire lol.

Yes, I do not feel like wiring a pump in to turn off with the ignition. however, i do have a wire that i closed off on my harness that is made for an accessory like a fuel pump

its new, the throttle sticks sometimes, but that is because the spring is weak and i have to replace it with a stronger one.

I made a block off plate recently and bought a regulator, and a carter 2.5-4 psi electric fuel pump. 2 reasons I didnt hook it up. 1 the mechanically was working "fine" and it didnt really bother me. 2 i couldnt find a solid place to mount the pump in the back in line or lower than the tank other than the out board side of the frame, which isnt ideal.

So none of my friends that "TUNED" the carb did not mess with the float. Ill try the fuel pump first.

before the gas problem. the other one i also got from rockauto and it leaked so it never pumped gas. The diaphragm was broken so i bought this "new" one off rockauto.

I just got a new one off of rockauto, if it is i shouldve got the more expensive one instead.

Hey, so recently i rebuilt my L18 (thanks to this community) and now i have fuel dumping into the oil pan. Let me tell you what ive done so far 1. I adjusted the weber three times with three different people who claimed they know webers. My friend who did it last has actual had results and the carb is leaner but still dumping some fuel in the pan. 2. I have changed the oil plenty of times 4 times so far, the engine has 110 miles on in since the rebuild. I dropped the pan also just to change the gasket and also precaution to see whats going on down there. 3. I have driven it a lot to get the crank as hot as the thermostat can get, 180 degrees. Usually i sit around 160 while driving, idle will get it to 180 and a little over. 4. I did a leak down test and the engine has no leaks. It almost matches perfectly with psi i am testing with. 70psi. I was told not to go over that. I know the next step would probably be re jetting the weber. However, I have no freaking clue how to do that or even select the correct size jets. Please help i dont want to ruin my engine.

I previously did this like you told me before. I put a 75 MC residual valve from the front disc so the psi wouldnt lock the disc pads. Now i am getting a bigger MC and will do the dame thing but for the rears. Thank you.

yea Mike youre right. Basically i just want it to be safe to drive at top speed 50 and stop correctly without any issues. Safety is my concern also. I have to press the pedal all the way down just for it to stop. But i have gotten the fronts to lock up which is good. Ok soooo i can put the 15/16 MC on with the 3/4 rear residual valve from my MC right now. Adjust the rear breaks and good. Thank you.

Its not that i hate drums, I know they cover more surface than the disc. To be honest I am just trying to achieve less travel in the pedal, and e brake actually working. I did change everything in the drums besides the hardware because I couldnt find the spring set. But since i changed the rear drums the ebrake is lacking. So it is my fault. I will suck it up and adjust them. I just hope this MC and adjusting will help me achieve less travel in the pedal, and ebrake working properly.

I have two new adjusters, I just hate working on drums.... I cant get the rears to lock up at all. I know the fronts do most of the stopping power but should the rears lock up first then the fronts?

So when i was putting the engine in, I didnt hoist the engine correctly the first time and the rope rub against the gasket on the outside and ripped it. I also forgot to put the L bracket on the pan to prevent it from leaking from the rail. So basically gasket change and correctly put pan on.