521aiden

is the bre look alike you’re referring to this one? These are from pierce manifolds.

Last weekend I pulled my engine out and messed with my clutch for a while, I ended up buying a 350z clutch fork kit from godzilla racing but apparently you also need the clutch sleeve to use it and they’re on back order so they did not send me one. I spent a good 3-4 hours trying different heights of sleeves (18,24, and 40mm) but no dice and after i called i was informed i needed a different piece so I had to abandon that. Good news is moving from a 40mm clutch sleeve to a 24mm fixed my problem and I actually have clutch engagement now! A friend of mine welded up my radiator but unfortunately it’s not quite right and he will have to do a few changes to it so it fits in the car correctly it came out pretty good though besides some slight miscalculations on my part and miscommunication in general. also test fitted my gooseneck intake and carbs with my sprint filter it’s a little too tall so i might be tackling making new throat piece that keeps it all under the hood. Baby steps!

it’s out of japan so maybe one of their part numbers? as far as king pits go i haven’t seen many of the nissan branded ones and I got it for cheap so if it doesn’t work no big deal.

Also, my radiator is coming along but my clutch sleeve still hasn’t shipped so my truck is still imobile till further notice 😡. also I finally found a 4bbl offy intake at the Long beach swap meet i’ll probably never use it but it’s cool and now i have both the 2 and 4 barrel versions.

Kind of off topic but does anyone have the I.D. on this king pin set I impulse bought off yaj? I haven’t had any luck finding the same part number thanks!

now I know it’s not a Nissan/ Datsun but it is nissan diesel powered from factory and it’s really cool so I wanted to share, saw it on fb marketplace. Face Book ad

It is missing the hold down screws, and it does use the box I have the box and I will throw in some screws. I’ll have to verify the primary resistance and what ballast looks like they recommend a proprietary coil with a included 1.5ohm ballast which makes me think it might be a 1.5 ohm primary coil but I messaged the distributor i bought my set up from to verify, other than that the set up is all pretty simple I think the only additional wiring I need is a relay for switched power, the cdi box also has a built in device to keep from burning up the ignition when it’s switched on so hopefully I won’t be frying that. The reason I got this was just because it was cool really I already have a matchbox dizzy that’s been good a chinese electronic dizzy that was OK and a few single and double points pieces but i figure this would be interesting and worst case i’ll throw the MB back in. Thanks for the advice, i’ll see how it all works out whenever the dcoes go on but for now i’ve got some other junk to worry about before i start doing unnecessary stuff. here’s a pic of the kit I have

Found a radiator! it’s a universal piece from northern radiator crossflow with two rows of 1” fins i believe only issue is it’s gonna be pretty tight getting it to fit and it doesn’t come with inlet or outlet hoses so i’ll have to cut and tig hose fittings but hopefully it turns out well and it’s a tiny bit thinner than my ebay rad so i might even get some clearance out of it! I’m also gearing up to do my dual carbs and lumenition and i found a NOS d411-88 which i think is an SSS L16 dizzy. it didn’t have the points set or the condensor or anything so i didn’t even have to pull anything apart to put in the infrared sensor and chopper blade. Slow but steady will update on whether my car is driveable once the new clutch sleeve/ arm and rad come in and i get all the hose fittings figured out. Thanks for reading!

here’s some vids I took on start up! first start rev first start idle

Back after a long while. I got the engine in hooked up my harness, finished my stainless hyd lines for the whole front of the car new 5an fuel line from front to back and a new 5an return to match. Progress has been on and off but I’ve had some spare time since school and the holidays let up. Lots of little stuff done since my last check in started up the truck and it sounds pretty good I ended up having to run an electric fuel pump because of my kameari chain tensioner being in the way of the pump lever I picked up a facet gold-flo 2.75-4psi that doesn’t something like 34gph which is plenty for my maybe 150hp 4 banger. I also ended up going with electric fans for clearance and i didn’t think revving a clutch or flex fan was a good idea. I bought one high perf 9” spal straight blade and then another one of the more standard 9” that’s lower profile it leaves just enough room for my accessory belts and what not. Wired the fans up with a derale pwm controller. I also had the chance to go for a test drive but that wasn’t exactly rewarding turns out my new south bend clutch uses a different height pressure plate than my previous so i’ve got to pull the engine back out to swap the throw out sleeve with the shorter style, I think I was using the 4 speed part previously? aside from having to take the engine out again my rad also sprang a leak in the core which isn’t the worst case scenario but it’s pretty inconvenient because i’ve got two fans a 3m stick on fan controller sensor and no space to pull the rad out without taking off my accessory pulleys. Anyway working on finishing the clutch and rad problems currently, also scored a NOS d411-88 sss single point dizzy to use with my lumenition infrared ignition kit, as of now my trucks got a l16 exhaust manifold a 32/36 weber and offy intake and a matchbox dizzy once my rings are seated and the engine is broken in i’ll be putting on my Stewart Wilkins header, gooseneck intake, dcoe45’s and the lumenition set up. I think that’s all for now if anyone has a recommendations for a radiator please let me know i’ve looked at champion, ebay, koyo, I know of the vw oem rads that some have used and am also considering us rad, griffin, ron davis, or pwr for a custom piece the core needs to be at least 9.5 tall and 20” wide. I know I don’t need anything custom and the smartest choice is probably the champion because it’s the same as the ebay rad just a little better fit and finish but for some reason i’m still leaning towards the much pricier fancy radiators. Thanks again for reading!

went through a bunch of rocker arms and found two sets of four for intake and exhaust with pad heights within +/-.0005” of each other and then I ground down where spring retainers usually interfere with the rockers on high lift cams a bit to get them as close as I could on tip weight but avoiding taking out any significant material mostly cleaning up the casting lines and such on the heavy ones. did a wipe test and the 195 lash pads I started with and as I assumed are short but I had free access to them so I threw them in to check Just ordered some 230s, 240s and 250s base circles are around 1.06”-1.075 between intake and exhaust I think it’s on the third regrind so that’s why the small base but with my math that puts me at ~230-240 getting the 250s just as backups don't Th ink you can have too many sizes of lashpads. My ati balancer went on much easier than I thought it would I have an Oem Ka bolt otw from my measurements the L4 ati balancer on a 2l crank calls for right around 54 mm overall shank length between the extra thick kameari washer and my crank snout depth and the ka is 53mm so it’ll either be perfect or i’ll have to trim just a tiny bit off the bottom to avoid bottoming out . I have a kameari chromoly bolt and washer but the washer doesn’t fit and is going to require .0120” off of the diameter so .060 off all the way around t cited to try and cut that hardened steel as for the bolt it is right at 47mm iirc so I’ll have some options if the ka bolt isn’t a bolt on just want to avoid any balancer problems especially with the infamous crank bolt loosening thing that the Z guys talk about.

looked at ultrasonics and ended up just going the more involved way i’ve got a few sets of carb cleaning tools and i’ve made sure every single hole is free of the crust and it’s been as thoroughly cleaned as possibly without the ultrasonic i’m breaking the engine in on the dgv so if it needs more work i’ll be able to tear them back down if i need to. head assembly and porting was me the valve job and surfacing was by GRC precision machine in san diego Gary is a the owner and a great machinist but he doesn’t seem to take much work on. He took my stuff because my boss asked him if he would help me out with it.

Not gone just busy! I've had lots to do lately three other project cars, parts holdups working with my 19 yo budget and college finals and work pulling me out of the garage but I am now back on track and making progress really hoping to get her back in the car and driving in the next few weeks! Engine doesn't look much different but it now has a head gasket, oil pan and pan support bracket, timing cover, timing gears and my kameari tensioner, an assembled head, arp head studs, and awaiting oil spray bar mod my cam to come back and timing gear. Ordered some 10w-40 Driven break-in Oil and their high zinc "hot rod" for first oil change, Painted over my spray paint job from 10th grade with a single stage enamel in the stock green. My dad Patched the fiberglass repair the PO used to close the hole a rotten battery made in my passenger fenderwell, while prepping for paint I noticed weird globs of bondo near the master cylinders which happened to be covering up a hack job of covering up the E-brake completely severed from the firewall the spot-welded Sheetmetal tab was ripped out in a rectangle and recessed ~1.5" inside of the cab, after lots of pounding and tac welds my dad flushed that up too. Took a stab at rebuilding my "ready to go" 45 dcoe 152gs and doing a basic gasket refresh but when i opened them up they were chalk full of sawdust and corrosion, after multiple bottles of carb cleaner, soaking in a gallon of berrymans carb solution and lots of scrubbing brushing washing and wiping those are now, Hopefully good to go. other than that getting ready to play with lash pads in the next few days when I get my cam and then bolting on my 32/36 dgv and stock ex manifold for simplicity on break in going to swap to dcoes and a SW motorsport tri-y header that Stewart is sending me with the collector tube left un welded so I can play with orientation for torsion bars. putting my matchbox back in on first start but I also have a Lumenition kit and ign box that I am planning on swapping in retrofitted onto a Single point Hitachi distributor I've heard good things and I think itll be a little better at high rpm but not much info on them outside of Australia and Japan if that backfires I stil have the Matchbox so Im not too worried about that. here's some pics and always, any adivice is appreciated and thanks everyone for the likes and looking through my Thread! kameari00941.webp kameari00941 (1).webp

was it this one https://instagram.com/migz_510?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y= he traded another sd datsun guy for this one a while back i think he’s out that way

yes, I threw the dial indicator on it came out to .012” above deck 10.13:1 actual static comp