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Posts posted by igotatruck
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I take it back, the choke does close just fine. I watched it gradually open up as it warmed up here.
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I think its more likely now that the choke isnt closing/turning on.
My main gripe is how rough it runs when I first start it up, and it doesnt even get that cold here.
I can see a solid 12.4V on the blue wire to the heater, so my relay seems okay.
However, the little door (red arrow), which I think is the choke, hasnt moved at all since I fired it up and let it run for 5 min this morning. This is with the needle all the way down on C.
Is the crappy spring (blue arrow) supposed to close it?
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I pulled the cover off the air filter so I can see in.
The choke valve is open after running it for a bit, I'm letting it cool down now to make sure it actually closes all the way.
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1 minute ago, datzenmike said:
As in it doesn't always drop down after a tap?
Sometimes it will drift back up. It will also hesitate and sputter for a split second if I jam on the accel quickly.
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On 12/25/2020 at 6:57 AM, datzenmike said:
It will smell, all exhaust smells. If warming up the choke will be on, see those two pictures I posted. When warmed up the choke should be off and the choke plate vertical.... is it??? this can easily be fixed if not.
It seems like the autochoke/fast idle does work, when cold it keeps the RPMs around 1.2k, until I tap the gas and then it will settle back down to around 7-800. It isn't always consistent about this.
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42 minutes ago, datzenmike said:
If there is a failure of one of the sensors the ECU under the seat can default to a 'limp home' mode of extra rich mixture to prevent engine damage.
I'm pretty sure its been running like this, stinks like gas when starting up.
I know there are some threads to diagnose this written up around here, and I have the next week off work so I have time to work on it.
The last two times I had to smog it, I was paying extra for the 'guaranteed pass' tests. But I'd really rather just have it work correctly.
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6 hours ago, datzenmike said:
No although there was one once. 32/34???
Do you mean this one? https://www.yotashop.com/weber-carburetor-toyota-pickup-truck-4wd-2-4l-22r-1981-1984-weber-carburetor-kit-32-36-dgev-electric-choke-california-legal-k8749/Whats better about the Webers over the stock (Hitachi?)
QuoteDoes yours have 6 wires going into it, and an O2 sensor in the exhaust manifold?
Yep
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This one is the MSD Atomic, I have not seen any others that are CARB compliant.
Guess im just SOL on the EFI, gonna stick with the carburetor
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Yeah, I'm just gonna return it.
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1 minute ago, datzenmike said:
If you already have it I guess t doesn't matter.
Are there any cases of someone using that on a small 4 cylinder engine? Did it work? Was it allowed by CARB.... not asking if the EFI was compliant, asking if CARB allowed it on your application.
I can still return it.
The more I'm looking into it, I dont think this will work. I'm seems like learning to tune the carburetor will take as much work as installing this thing and I dont have to go drilling holes in the exhaust etc. I have not heard of anyone using this successfully either. They leave this out on the website, but in the manual it turns out these are only compliant on GM V8s 😕 Not sure if the smog techs would know this but still. The truck runs as good as it did last time I had it smogged.
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33 minutes ago, datzenmike said:
This don't look right. Get a 2bbl.
This is the only one I have seen that is CA CARB-compliant.
What issues do you think I would have with the 4bbl to 2bbl adapter?
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Whelb I am gonna need some kinda adapter because this is a 4 barrel injector and my carb looks to be a two barrel.
Going to try this one:
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If I waited around until I was sure of everything, I wouldnt get nothing done. Ordered it, wish me luck!
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Im going to make a post on the Holley (Atomic/MSD) forums whenever their mods get around to approving my account...
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This is my engine bay:
1 hour ago, datzenmike said:This is likely a throttle body so no need for CAS or going to single plugs.
What is CAS?
I like not having to do extra stuff.
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On 4/6/2020 at 12:08 PM, datzenmike said:
It might also clear itself if you continue driving it hard, opening and closing the secondary.
Its given me no (unusual) trouble since then so I believe you're right.
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I ordered my bearings and rings from Midwest Transmission. Last I checked they sell replacement gears as well.
My thread: https://ratsun.net/topic/76171-transmission-rebuild-time
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4 hours ago, Zac7803 said:
@datzenmike thanks for the info. Found out my truck manufacture date was 9/83 so that kit you sent me should work. I guess the questions is now do i have to take the engine out to get transmission out or can I just drop the transmission?
Nah, you can drop it out without removing the engine. I pulled mine just with just a normal floor jack and a lot of cussing.
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So i got the dreaded STAR SMOG REQUIRED letter and thought this might be a good opportunity to try out an EFI conversion kit. I never really got my carb running correctly anyway.
I have an 83 720 with the obligatory California emissions set up on the carb.
I have seen that the MSD/Atomic EFI kits are CARB compliant and wanted to try that.
Has anyone tried installing one of these?
Any suggestions?
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EFI Conversion
in 720
Posted
Tried to get a clip of the way it hesitates and shakes when I try to accel fast: