igotatruck

Is there any reason I can not take the two housing halves to the machine shop and have them dunk em in the cleaning tank?

Okay got it cracked and mounted in the vise. What am I looking for as far as busted bits?

Nothing seems exploded but some of the bearings sound noisy, I think.

Also this gasket looks like it has failed pretty badly. vvvvv

Welp there it is:

Its loose in there but it keep catching on something and wont fall out

Okay, got the transmission all disconnected and its sitting on the jack, how do I get it out? It is either too far forward and the spindle catches on the clutch or it is too far back and the place where the shift lever attaches hits the bottom of the cab.

Also any tips on how to get the exhaust tube bolts off? They seem stuck as heck

A random question:

Where can I get some of these bolts that hold the brake caliper onto the knuckle?

12 hours ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

(I made some custom sockets so I can do this with an impact gun, pics below)

This has to be the deepest socket i have seen, impressive

11 hours ago, bottomwatcher said:

I am curious about the country of origin on those bearings. If you buy the kit let us know. 

Will do

Nice, thanks all. I will post updates when i get the thing pulled out this weekend

I never done a transmission before, but I did just finish a head gasket job on the wifes car. I have sockets and jacks and stand and such but what other special tools am I gonna need for this?

After kicking this can down the road for almost a year, I am gonna rebuild my transmission.

Its an '83 720 2WD Z24. Bought me the real deal factory manual, which says I got a FS5W71B.

I lost access to 5th gear not long after I bought it, it just slides out as soon as I let the clutch out.

Lately it has been making a very quiet clicking sound when driving in gear and makes a kindof winding down noise when I throw it in neutral to coast.

I seem to remember that the 5th gear popping out is because the 'King Nut' or something has loosened up over time.

I figure if I am gonna pull it out I might as well do a rebuild as best as I can. I read in another thread that this is a good rebuild kit:
https://www.midwesttrans.com/webapp/partView.do?partNum=MWT104

Anything else I should know before going forward? I am in no rush to get it done so I dont mind taking the time to get it right.

Any parts I should swap out to make it beefier? I want to see how long I can keep the thing running.

Heres a pic of the manual I got an the door plate for the truck:

Okay the problem was the 3 way switch Mike mentioned. A little rubbing alcohol and q-tips cleaned out the gunk on the contacts. Thanks to all for the help!

1 hour ago, weldingrod said:

I hate electrical!! At least hydraulics have the good grace to leak and give you a hint where the problem is. I am a welder and when everything is going good I have smoke, heat and flame. Apparently not so desirable when messing with automotive electrics.

 

I have the opposite going on. I do electronics by trade and feel at home looking for cracked solder and bad wiring, but at a loss for making custom mounts and such.

Good luck nixing the noise!

58 minutes ago, datzenmike said:

The dimmer isn't responsible for the rear running lights. That must be something else.

Is there a relay on the running lights? Its shorted to ground somewhere.

Seems like it was the dimmer after all. The nut holding the pot got loose and cracked all three leads off. Gonna solder it up and test it at lunch.

.

2 hours ago, datzenmike said:

If the rear tail lights are out also it isn't the dimmer. Both are supplied by the headlamp switch in the first position. It gets it's power from the 13th fuse from the left hand side of the fuse box. (3rd from the right) If your interior lamp is not working then this is the problem.

Do you mean the ceiling mounted dome light by interior lamp? That does work, however the headlight switch is sometimes reluctant to switch between hi/low beam so I really wouldnt be surprised if it was the culprit. 

Hey all, I am having a weird problem that hopefully someone can help with.

A few months ago my dash board illumination lights and rear running lights quit working.

All other lights work correctly, save one dead headlight bulb.

I suspect it to be the dash dimmer module, as it once cut in and out as I wiggled it. Also the shaft just seems loose like the potentiometer inside is broken.

I would take it out and test it but I cannot for the life of me figure out how to get the knob off.

Any suggestions?

How get this knob off? vvvvv

On 2/18/2019 at 8:41 PM, PNW 720 97499 said:

Stumbled across this thread looking at tach problems. Mine reads 1500 rpm. Gunna break out the DMM this week and see. What was the replacement tach? Just some generic replacement or a specific unit? 

I got it on ebay, the exact replacement, it was a lucky find.

I see alot of offerings in the 12v electric fuel pump market.

Any that are especially worthy of being on an 83 720?

I do have a recovvery tank and it seems to be working.

Thanks for all the help everyone!!

Happy to report, no leaks!

yet...

That looks alot like the front brakes on my 83 720.

This is ridiculously awesome.

Welp, got it bolted back up.

Drove it to the autozone to get a better clamp and a bit peed out in the parking lot there but, nothing when I got home so I suspect it was just a little excess working its way out. Sounds a bit better, temp gauge works fine, no steam or anything still.

Ill report back after a few days of driving.

Power steering fluid reservoir.

Thanks!

If you don't know for certain the age of your radiator and heater hoses, this is an excellent time to put new ones on. It might save you an overheated engine, possible blown head gasket, and maybe a wrecker bill. New hoses are cheap insurance.

 

Ratsun wisdom says a water pump with a cast iron impeller (like your old pump) does a better job of moving coolant through the system than a pump with a stamped metal impeller (like your new one). But I've always wondered if that might be a Ratsun urban legend. Since you already have the new pump with stamped impeller, go ahead and put it on. I suspect many cars are driving around with these and doing fine. Since you live where I imagine it gets pretty warm now and then, you can be a stamped impeller guinea pig. :lol: I spent a lot of time looking for a pump with a cast iron impeller and it cost me over $100. I still wonder if I wasted time and money by not just buying the kind of pump you got. But let us know how it works for you the rest of the summer.

 

If you have rust in the cooling system it would be good to use a garden hose stuck in the radiator and heater hose openings and flush out as much of the old coolant and rust as you can before hooking up the hoses again. Then replace the coolant with new. Open the heater valve with the control on the dash and flush the heater core also.

 

Len

Thanks also, off to buy new hoses!