igotatruck

I was driving my truck, faster than I usually do, and it started doing something really weird and kinda scary.

I was cruisin along fine but then I went to drop it neutral, the engine kept gunning even without pressing the gas pedal.

It was peaking at around 4k rpm, and hanging there, again without pressing the gas.

When I would kill the engine it would stop but slowly, and shudder and chug along for  a (painstaking) few seconds.

It kept doing this as I limped back home, until I got about 5m from the house and but then started working normal again.

Never got hot or smelled weird or anything, just racing..

I'm guessing my carb was letting gas thru? I popped the hood and moved the little gas spring/valve thing in the carb but it didnt seem stuck open or anything.

I will pull it open tomorrow and have the wife work the pedal to see if anything is acting weird. Any suggestions what to watch for?

Came back in the morning and tried it again, seems like the fluid was just low.
I'll report back if it is acting up again.

It is a rare high quality pic of the Rabbit of Caerbannog!

Haha ok I was looking at the wrong reservoir! The brake was at about 25% so I topped up the reservoir and the light went out but it still feels spongy when the engine is on. If it was low, would I need to bleed it? Did I get air in the system from letting it run low?

I notice it idles a bit rougher while I am pumping the brake.

Its been cold and rainy so I am not surprised it is acting up in some way.

The parking brake works normally but the BRAKE light does not go off. I dont see any leaks or loose plugs at the wheel or from the cylinder.

I have done only 5 min or research so please excuse my ignorance about this so far.

I went to drive to work and my brakes were out. The pedal did stop the car but I had the pedal on the floor. It was working fine when I parked it a few days ago. When the car is on, the pedal feels normal but as soon as I start the engine it goes limp again. What I think is the brake master cylinder has fluid between the min/max lines. Is there any obvious things I should check?

Well, it does work better than it did!

It still slides out of 5th, which really isnt a problem for me but a little disappointing.

Got it all bolted back in place, I am a little confused about one of the bolts that holds the rear extension/ bell housing onto the engine. The is one that is extra long and has a big washer on the head, a hex washer bolt. Not sure where that one goes. The other three bolts seemed the correct length for their holes. The only remaining hole is the top one on the passenger side, I think, but the extra length seems to make it bottom out.

Other than that I just need to fill it up and then reconnect the starter etc.

This thing has been a bitch and half but I think I got it correctly reassembled.

Shifting feels good, though I am sure it will feel better once its full of fluid.

Thanks again for everyone who chimed in, Ill let you know how it works once I get it installed.

'

Anythings I should check for now while I can still pull it apart?

Ok got it, nearst I can guess is this "overdrive gear bushing" got real seized up. Managed to just push it off past the threads by hitting the end of the shaft. The inner bearing pressed against the gear hub but let the shaft slide through so eventually the bushing slipped past the threads for the main shaft lock nut. also used the heat gun.

Thanks for all the help!

Ok got the pins out with some cheap punches from HF.

Does this 5/OD gear hub thing come off? It does not want to move, looks like the guy in the video just pulls it off easily.

Asshole roll pins will not come out! Is this an okay thing to try the blowtorch on? Gonna see if the pb blast loosens em up a little.

Ive been watching this guy pulling it apart, and it looks like the only time he needs any kind of puller is this first bearing behind the speedo worm gear.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EEeNxPwAJi0&t=275s

Can I get away with using just this cheap puller?

https://www.harborfreight.com/gear-puller-set-15-pc-62958.html?_br_psugg_q=gear+puller

Also it looks like everything else just gets hammered or set into place, but how does he get that bearing back on?

2 minutes ago, datzenmike said:

No.

 

The  large front two bearings do support the fronts of the main and counter shafts, and there are smaller bearings at the back that do the same. In the middle are the adapter plate bearings and they don't look good at all.

Okay, as far as I can tell this is the cause, this seemed like significant slop to me and in some positions the shafts will bind slightly. Gonna start pulling it apart.

Gonna guess this is not a healthy amount of wiggle?

https://imgur.com/PHDeihB

On 8/30/2019 at 11:27 AM, bottomwatcher said:

I am curious about the country of origin on those bearings. If you buy the kit let us know. 

Okay so they are all this NACHI brand from Japan with the exception of this one with the blue grease marked "6204 2RS NR"

The syncros and smaller bearings have no markings on them.

On 9/16/2019 at 5:04 PM, datzenmike said:

I assume reverse still works and it's on the same rod. This is the least shifted and used gear so wtf???

 

 5th/reverse is on the mainshaft to the rear of the adapter plate check the bearing in the adapter plate and the one to the rear behind the speedo worm gear. If bad the mainshaft may be wobbly/unstable. The rear one is easy to see and spin. The adapter plate is more a visual check fro broken bearing cage. Move the mainshaft at right angles to see if loose/sloppy.

 

Yeah the reverse worked, my initial test made it seem like there was some play in the main shaft, but I will keep futzing with it tomorrow.

On 9/13/2019 at 9:07 AM, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

 

Popping out of fifth can have multiple causes, but the main culprits are usually the nut being loose and the roll pin in the shift rod being broken. Oh, yeah, inspect all roll pins while you have it apart. If any are broken, replace them, either with OEM style single roll pins, or with double roll pins, which are a HD version of the OEM units.

Okay, got it shifting with the screwdriver, it spins freely in neutral at the moment.

The roll pins seem fine externally, would they be broken inside? My book calls them "retaining pins".

Here is a video of the nut showing how much play and thread is left.

https://i.imgur.com/vsyINrh.mp4

12 hours ago, datzenmike said:

None of the 71Bs I've had apart L, Z, SD, and CA do and I see no part numbers for any other transmission with an adapter plate.

Mine had no gasket on the middle plate, just the front one.

59 minutes ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

Edit - leaving the gasket off the front plate shortens the shift stops.

I think im gonna do it as stock as possible, if it lasts as long as the first time, it will probably outlive me.

Please excuse my ignorance in the following questions:

How do i know if it is jammed in 5th?

Should the shifting rods move freely by hand? The shafts spin but I cant simulate a gear change how it is now, all the rods that accept the striking lever (?) will not slide around.

Also what else could make it pop out of 5th since it sounds like this nut has not backed off a substancial amount?

12 hours ago, datzenmike said:

. I doubt this is the problem as it would have to back off a lot more than this.

Thanks again!

What else could cause this if not this nut?

On 9/8/2019 at 8:44 PM, datzenmike said:

Oh yeah 5th jumping out of gear.

 

Maybe it's this... Look on the main shaft for the (aptly named) main shaft nut. Pictured below at the bottom just behind the speedometer worm gear. Some are farther back.

 

It has a thin flange that is staked into a dimple on the main shaft to prevent it loosening. Older models didn't have  this and it would back off and loose 5th. Pry up the staking and tighten the nut if you can. Don't worry you can't hurt anything.. it's supposed to be 100-120 ft lbs. If you manage to tighten it don't forget to stake that collar.

Hell yeah thanks!

I ordered the kit, shopping around for pullers. That nut is staked but it has some play so its definitely not 100ft/lbs tight.

Whats a good way to pry up the staking?
What goop did they use to seal this?

What you gonna do with those 4wd parts?

10 minutes ago, datzenmike said:

The pictures are there now but when I started to write the post they weren't. No worries.

 

There is a reverse check sleeve that prevents shifting from 5th directly down into reverse. You could use a grinder and just clean them up a little that might help getting into reverse. It just might be that the teeth hit just the right way and can't mesh or slide together... I just let the clutch out and in to spin them and try again. The chewed up gears are from not being stopped when shifting into reverse or if in neutral with clutch pedal up and then deciding to back up not giving the gears 2 seconds to slow down after the pedal is depressed. The gear oil will slow the gears quite fast.

That's what I was doing, I'll see if I cant smooth it up a bit to see if that helps. I am more worried about my 5th gear slipping out, don't like the idea of running it at 4kRPM every time I wanna take the freeway.

Thanks for all the help, is really exciting to finally get into this.

1 minute ago, datzenmike said:

OK I guess the last post with pictures was not showing.

 

 

This looks normal. It's torn from removal.

 

You can degrease the front and rear cases in a cleaning tank. I would just uses a citrus de greaser and power wash at home.

 

 

 

I got mine for under $4 maybe it was mislabeled? Goddamn it cleans hands really well. Spray it on wait 10 min power wash.

 

The chewed up leading edges on that is the reverse gear. It might whine while reversing but who cares?

Thanks for the tip, I have a pressure washer so I'll probably just do that.

It never made any noise in reverse, but it wouldn't go into reverse gear some times, I'm guessing whenever this tooth was the one in line. I never need to go into reverse in a hurry so it never bothered me to just try it again but I figured I would fix as much as I can while I had it all open.

The imgur link didnt work?

What am I looking for in here that is making it pop out of 5th? It felt like it would go into gear but then it would be pushed back out as soon as I let the clutch out. I remember something about a king nut or ???

1 minute ago, datzenmike said:

What wouldn't come off the front or the rear case??????????

The rear was a little stubborn at first but came apart pretty easily once I was holding it off the floor. The front case came off with a few good whacks. I suspect the rubber hammer I was using wasn't giving the same kind of shock as the dead-blow hammer the guy in the video was using.

Here is a few more close up pics and a video of the noise. Found one chunk carved out of a gear.

https://imgur.com/a/lvBZaeH

Just now, datzenmike said:

We're talking about the transmission? There is no bottom housing, there is the front and rear aluminum cases sandwiching the steel adapter in the middle.

Thanks for the clarification, I had to hold it up while my wife hammered on it, it wouldnt slip off sitting on the floor.