igotatruck

Tried to get a clip of the way it hesitates and shakes when I try to accel fast:

1 minute ago, datzenmike said:

 

It opens ALL the way to vertical????

 

 

Yep

I take it back, the choke does close just fine. I watched it gradually open up as it warmed up here.

Screws, looks just like that pic.

I think its more likely now that the choke isnt closing/turning on.

My main gripe is how rough it runs when I first start it up, and it doesnt even get that cold here.

I can see a solid 12.4V on the blue wire to the heater, so my relay seems okay.

However, the little door (red arrow), which I think is the choke, hasnt moved at all since I fired it up and let it run for 5 min this morning. This is with the needle all the way down on C.

Is the crappy spring (blue arrow) supposed to close it?

I pulled the cover off the air filter so I can see in.

The choke valve is open after running it for a bit, I'm letting it cool down now to make sure it actually closes all the way.

1 minute ago, datzenmike said:

As in it doesn't always drop down after a tap?

Sometimes it will drift back up. It will also hesitate and sputter for a split second if I jam on the accel quickly.

On 12/25/2020 at 6:57 AM, datzenmike said:

 

It will smell, all exhaust smells. If warming up the choke will be on, see those two pictures I posted. When warmed up the choke should be off and the choke plate vertical.... is it??? this can easily be fixed if not.

It seems like the autochoke/fast idle does work, when cold it keeps the RPMs around 1.2k, until I tap the gas and then it will settle back down to around 7-800. It isn't always consistent about this.

42 minutes ago, datzenmike said:

If there is a failure of one of the sensors the ECU under the seat can default to a 'limp home' mode of extra rich mixture to prevent engine damage.

I'm pretty sure its been running like this, stinks like gas when starting up.

I know there are some threads to diagnose this written up around here, and I have the next week off work so I have time to work on it.

The last two times I had to smog it, I was paying extra for the 'guaranteed pass' tests. But I'd really rather just have it work correctly.

lolololol

https://toyotaminis.com/forum/threads/how-to-make-weber-carb-ca-legal.16939/

6 hours ago, datzenmike said:

No although there was one once. 32/34???

Do you mean this one? https://www.yotashop.com/weber-carburetor-toyota-pickup-truck-4wd-2-4l-22r-1981-1984-weber-carburetor-kit-32-36-dgev-electric-choke-california-legal-k8749/

Whats better about the Webers over the stock (Hitachi?)

Quote

Does yours have 6 wires going into it, and an O₂ sensor in the exhaust manifold?

Yep

This one is the MSD Atomic,  I have not seen any others that are CARB compliant.

Guess im just SOL on the EFI, gonna stick with the carburetor

Yeah, I'm just gonna return it.

1 minute ago, datzenmike said:

If you already have it I guess t doesn't matter.

 

Are there any cases of someone using that on a small 4 cylinder engine? Did it work? Was it allowed by CARB.... not asking if the EFI was compliant, asking if CARB allowed it on your application.

I can still return it.

The more I'm looking into it, I dont think this will work. I'm seems like learning to tune the carburetor will take as much work as installing this thing and I dont have to go drilling holes in the exhaust etc. I have not heard of anyone using this successfully either. They leave this out on the website, but in the manual it turns out these are only compliant on GM V8s 😕 Not sure if the smog techs would know this but still. The truck runs as good as it did last time I had it smogged.

33 minutes ago, datzenmike said:

This don't look right. Get a 2bbl.

This is the only one I have seen that is CA CARB-compliant.

What issues do you think I would have with the 4bbl to 2bbl adapter?

Whelb I am gonna need some kinda adapter because this is a 4 barrel injector and my carb looks to be a two barrel.

Going to try this one:

https://www.holley.com/products/fuel_systems/carburetor_components/carburetor_gaskets_adapters_and_spacers/adapters_and_spacers/parts/1933

If I waited around until I was sure of everything, I wouldnt get nothing done. Ordered it, wish me luck!

Ah. https://www.allpar.com/threads/cap-cas-distributor-vacuum-advance-control-valve.229055/

Nevermind hah

Im going to make a post on the Holley (Atomic/MSD) forums whenever their mods get around to approving my account...

This is my engine bay:

This is my engine bay:

1 hour ago, datzenmike said:

This is likely a throttle body so no need for CAS or going to single plugs.

What is CAS?

I like not having to do extra stuff.

On 4/6/2020 at 12:08 PM, datzenmike said:

It might also clear itself if you continue driving it hard, opening and closing the secondary.

Its given me no (unusual) trouble since then so I believe you're right.

I ordered my bearings and rings from Midwest Transmission. Last I checked they sell replacement gears as well.

My thread: https://ratsun.net/topic/76171-transmission-rebuild-time

4 hours ago, Zac7803 said:

@datzenmike thanks for the info. Found out my truck manufacture date was 9/83 so that kit you sent me should work. I guess the questions is now do i have to take the engine out to get transmission out or can I just drop the transmission?

Nah, you can drop it out without removing the engine. I pulled mine just with just a normal floor jack and a lot of cussing.

So i got the dreaded STAR SMOG REQUIRED letter and thought this might be a good opportunity to try out an EFI conversion kit. I never really got my carb running correctly anyway.

I have an 83 720 with the obligatory California emissions set up on the carb. 

I have seen that the MSD/Atomic EFI kits are CARB compliant and wanted to try that.

Has anyone tried installing one of these?

Any suggestions?