pope_face

I wish... Actually, I remember thinking how cool it would look to have a pair of Shelby Cobra front bumperettes on the back of a 521 before I found out that they came stock... They look pretty much the same. Actually... maybe Jegs or one of the American muscle aftermarket companies makes repro Cobra bumperettes... Who knows, maybe they'll be cheaper than trying to find an original set... Ok, I can't really find the set I'm looking for, but I'm sure ya'll know which ones I mean... anyone seen the Cobra front clips they have in Wireless Wave stores?

Hey Mike, I have a couple tricky questions... do you have any idea by how much those boosters increase the force applied to them? And do you know if it's possible to plumb the booster to the clutch with any of the following: brake booster, directly connected to a clutch master cylinder; brake booster/master cylinder plumbed directly to the clutch slave; or brake booster mechanically connected (linkage, cable, etc?) to either the clutch master or slave cylinder, or the pressure plate (or whatever it is) directly? I'm back to considering modifying the clutch pedal to a hand lever so that I can use a standard...

Hahaha, awesome job on the rising sun... it looks good. It fits reaaal nice... Santa, on the other hand, looks a bit big.

I'll do my best... hopefully nobody will be too hung over...

Sorry, didn't mean to sound like a bastard with that post... I think there was some mention of master cylinders and all in the other thread... I suppose, if you could, just pull the master cylinder/brake booster at the same time you get the calipers. IIRC, you might have to check clearance for the master cylinder/booster and the air intake... I know the 521's have an issue with that, not sure about the 620's...

Mazel tov, salut, and merry New Year! Or... something along those lines...

Hahahaha, I think it would be awesome if one year a bunch of Datto folks roped their cars together and put antlers on the hoods... and then pulled around a trailer stacked with car parts...

There's a big ol' thread on this here... "Disc Brakes On A Kingpin Truck"... I think that's what it's called... may as well keep questions in that thread. I'd give ya the link, but my connection is bad, and it should be right in this forum.

Pac, looks good... If I didn't know what to look for, I wouldn't be able to tell... And I was going to ask about the low too... Did you body-drop the bed? It looks like you did, but I can't really tell...

Shame you're so far away, I would've picked one up from ya... I'm slowly looking around for one.

Cool, seems like folks who have them have more than one... I've got "memento mori" done across my upper back... anyone know what it means? Right now it's all on its lonesome, but I'm getting more done to it, I just need to sort out details. datsunfish: I know what you mean about being unique and not getting any, but it's hard to be unique anymore... For me it's now a matter of enjoying what I'm doing, rather than trying to be different. It's working out a hell of a lot better... Icehouse: What does that first one mean? I can tell it's some sort of formulas, but I can't tell for what... I like the skull though.

Damn... ya'll have it good down there. I pay about $2000 a year on just my daily... I checked into the cost of the Datsun and it'll run me about $1600 with a 15% discount (based on years of driving without an accident)... Collectors insurance up here isn't too bad... I think any car can be fully insured for about $300 a year, but you need at least one other vehicle, and the car has to be in great condition to original specs, which won't work for me. I wanted to get modified collectors insurance, but the car needs to be over 50 years old for that...

What do you have? Any pictures? :D

I was positive someone posted this up not too long ago as a Craigslist ad...

Mike: That makes sense... I've got the whole "air comes from the dash" concept so ingrained in myself that I didn't think about looking up... :D But, the only thing is... how about defrost? Or... I suppose it's not really "defrost" in California, but defog? Or will the heater and defrost run on recirculated air?

In regards to the real/not real museum 620 question above... I think maybe these are "real" because they are all original... or at least with correct paint and whatnot. Looks like all three were made by Low Manufacturing, but maybe the two above have all the stock or identical parts as used in the original?

Just wondering what the Ratsun community's views on tattoos are... anybody have any or want any? Any pictures to share? Cool designs? I've got one but I'll share later.

Would the solid axle rear be noticably worse than IRS on winding roads, or is it the suspension that will make or break the setup? I can see maybe the "inside" wheel (on a solid axle) losing a bit of traction on a curve, but that would only really make a difference at high speeds or on a sharp curve, correct?

Just out of curiosity, why shave the cowl vents? Don't they lead into the cab to supply outside air? It looks good though...

http://nwde.org... North West Datsun Enthusiasts... I think I can spell...

You could always flare the fenders like that one 521 in the gallery... the grey/unfinished one with the red window... :D

I think it says "Beware of THEM!"

Yeah, like Jester said, wheels are measured from the inside of the bead to the inside of the bead, not across the entire width... Unless you're buying wheels from a shop, I'd bring a tape measure to verify the width. I didn't know this myself for a long time either, so if you're buying wheels off an individual then I recommend double checking yourself. Jester: Offset is the distance of the hub from the centerline of the rim. 0 offset means that the hub surface and wheel mate dead center of the rim... positive offset means that the hub is further out past the centerline, and negative offset means it's further in (I'm not exactly sure on directions, but I think that's it). So, assuming that a couple wheels have the exact same width, a wheel with a positive offset will sit further in than a wheel with 0 offset, and a wheel with negative offset will stick out the furthest. The lower the offset, the further out the wheel will stick. Offset is measured in mm. Backspacing is the distance between the hub and the back of the wheel, and it's measured in inches... Backspacing and offset really come into play when you've got two wheels of different widths, such as above. Say you need 4" of backspacing... on an 8" wheel that'd dead center, which gives it an offset of 0. On a 9" wheel, however, the center line is 4.5" from the back of the wheel. That means that you need to move the wheel half an inch further out in order to have the same backspacing. Half an inch is roughly 13mm, and because you're moving the hub further in the offset is negative... therefore, an offset of -13.

Pretty much the same as above: weld in some new mounts. Other than that, it's all details. There's a bunch of writeups floating around... check out dimequarterly for a writeup... it's under engine in the tech section, right at the top of the page. Other than that, there's a few folks on here doing them. Take a look at the projects page. The KA and the SR are fairly similar engines in terms of swapping them in, so most of the info you find on one will be applicable to the other. The KA is a bigger engine than the J though, so you'll have to do some fab work... New motor/transmission mounts, modifying a crossmember, possibly cutting into the core support/firewall/transmission tunnel... you'll need to run an electric fuel pump and do all the wiring too.

Hmm... how low can you go with IRS in the rear and not cut into the bed? I'm considering airbags and want to know my options... but, the only issue would be camber. Is there any way to do this in order to get a height-adjustable setup that won't need camber adjustment?