Soundline

I'll drop by Tuesday, I'll be the dude with the toolbox that looks like a violin case. I'll tell him the Gato-Father sends his regards.

I'm about to Datsun dumpster dive the fuck out of some shit. If you have a friend at one of those places I'll hit them up and pay cash.

Lol, I was actually just reading a thread about this.

Come on buddy, you know you'd trade all your Datsun note books for one 1984 Chevrolet Camaro Berlitina V6 Automatic T-Top in root beer brown. (Which would be 50 shades of rust because water based paint washes off)... Actually though if you run anything in a 99-00' Jeep Cherokee 4.0 with coil pack ignition except Champion Copper Core plugs.... it goes into limp mode within 150 mi.... that son of a bitch is the MOST temperamental piece of shit I've ever owned.... once my next round of check engine light bullshit is finished I'm selling it and buying a 4Runner.

Excellent, I'll track them down. I used NGK on my previous 240SX/S13 projects and I run them in my Toyota 22RE's.

Sure, my 620 is in hiding until such a time as I sort a few things out. I'm around though and I'd be down to meet up and talk shop regardless. Back on topic; this is gonna seem like a stupid question but for wire management, and maintenance records purposes, I'd like to do cap, rotor, wires, and plugs. Do I need to do the points at the same time? Are their "Ratsun approved" (no shit, that phrase was used on Amazon) tune up parts? I've had good luck with NGK parts in the past, but I dunno how those work with the Datsun gods.

Nice write up Dan! I'll be using a very similar, if not exactly the same method to repair the ones I can. I'm confident I can save the housing on the right rear, after a couple hours last night but the drivers side had the dividers taken out and just had the whole thing umm... monkeyed with. I'm almost positive it involved someone holding a beer, and watching this... Anyhow, not really an expensive part, and it's winter, so I'm frying other fish on this truck while I wait for that.

Since I don't actually need to drive it, I just ordered repop parts off Amazon. I'll save what I can with glue and love, but it looks like she'll be a garage trophy until sometime in late Jan.

Yeah, the back side of the tail light housing is the same business... the good news is I HAVE voltage to the wire. So I'm not chasing electrical gremlins yet.... (<-----the "yet" used here is preemptive, because if I didn't use it.... I guarantee they'd start popping up) So, yeah, I'll need a side too. It was actually cracked, like all the other lights, because you don't NEED to torque your plastic trim screws until you break the lense... but someone did.... to all of them.... And I'd be more than happy to drive up to our Great Northern Neighbor and pilfer through you stash Mike, which I'm sure resembles the giant warehouse from the end of Raiders of the Lost Ark... but... turns out the Canadian Consulate in France CAN PNG an American.

This is just who I am. Why "front" here. You'll decide my dark sense of humor and avid cursing is for you, or not. That way if I ever do meet any of you, you'll know what to expect. And... back on topic... it's the motherfucking housings.... my brake lights don't signal through the housing.... no continuity. That shit is corroded into dust because there were two screws holding them in place... I am not an electrical engineer, nor have I played one on tv. But... I can tell you this thing is fucked. The rears are notably similar in condition. So... I need new housings. Now... I could drill this shit out, solder together a new connector, and pretend that it will work. Oooooor I could just actually fix the fucking problem. I looked through my crate of extra Datsun shit that came with it, and it's mostly more broken shit. There's a speedo to replace the one in the truck that's stuck at 40 mph.... buuuuuut some genius left it in water... and it corroded out about 1/3 of the circuit board. I'll give that about a 1:500 chance it will work. Enough bitching and whining and time to look through the classifieds, check eBay, and see what's available.

I just did that to my rock crawler, I bought regular bulbs this time for testing purposes.

Technically... I "live" in Moxee.... but I'm there as fucking rarely as possible. It's not a bad place, I just love yakima as much as I love herpes. You're much more likely to find me in Richland or in the woods around Wenatchee. Due to it being officially winter until some fucking varmit says otherwise... I'll be mostly in Richland. Annnnnd by mostly I mean 99.9%.

I'll order another one, and pick up the right spares. It looks like I need a valve cover gasket, so I'll start working on that after lights work. I think most of my rear light issues stem from this lovely bumper.... they tried to wire the license plate lights to this by splicing... anyhow more to come as I move forward.

Excellent. This is a whole lot of answers. Ahhhh the KA... we're well acquainted... I have a lot of other shit to do to this before I'd go KA, or actually worry about upping HP output. Most of my steering components need to be redone, some immediate attention to having a poorly repaired pass floor board and other general maintenance. I'll be slowly working down that list on this truck, then, when it cycles back in next winter... maybe. I'll figure it out. I don't like to jump head first into a swap without having a solid game plan.

Yeah, I'm in Richland, Wenatchee, or Moxee. Currently the truck an I are both in Richland.

Thanks again, I'll run through this a little later. I'm gonna buy all new bulbs all the way around. I'll swap them out as I check things so I'll know when they were done. Lights being burned out/not working annoy me.

Lol, actually.. I just curse... A LOT. I'd love to blame the career path I've chosen, but let's be honest.... people that curse frequently usually know better jokes and are more fun to drink with. I could laundry list cars I've had, but here's the summation, I basically took a ten year break. I'm no pro like some of you fuckers, but I started turning wrenches on my own shit in 94'. Feel free to continue to talk shit though, my skin is thick. This is after all, the Internet. The only thing that would upset me is getting banned, cause then I'd have to do this without you guys. I'll look at upgrading the carbs. I was doing some passive research on the mikumi side drafts, but I'll do a lot more reading. Right now I just need a new air filter. Emissions aren't a problem here for anything over 25 years. It does have U67 on the head, is this the more desirable? My target hp will be... decided after all the other problems are fixed. I'm gonna have the seat reupholstered and fix some rust issues. I'm thinking 130 hp though. I haven't really pushed it but it seems happy at 55 mph. Our highways are 60-70 mph so. I won't really be using them.

Yeah, I saw a bunch of this when I bought it. And, to fix it properly I just needed steered in the right direction.

Compression will be checked once I tune it up. Honestly though, it runs well. I don't think I cold take a school bus from a stoplight, but if I wanted a race car... I'd drive something else. I just wanted to know what plugs/wires/cap and stuff to put in there. My worst wiring nightmare experience was swapping harnesses to work to run a Duramax Diesel in a Ford F-350 that had started with the 6.0 turbo diesel.... so these are just a nuisance. I pulled out my mil spec connector kits, then realized... I just need to tape it. I don't race anymore, so why do a bunch of shit that doesn't matter?

Thanks buddy. So I can order parts like water pump, alternator, starter, from the original L18 and they'll mate up? I like to have these things on hand. I have a complete engine and trans for my DD sitting on stands in my garage with everything installed... I just like to have shit ready to go, because things break. There's a lot of discussions about those Webers on here, so I'll read through them. It actually came with an extra one in the "crate o' shit" that was in the bed. Along with a bunch of parts I'm sorting through. I'll cap those EGR lines off so nothing crawls in there.

Well done! When are you Aussies going to start sharing Datsun parts with the guys in the states? That bedcover you have is very nice.

If you are offended by four letter words that rhyme with duck or bunt... please continue to the next posting. This thread is not for you my friend. There will be dark photos and vague descriptions. So maybe point me in the right direction. Im... gonna go out on a limb here and say.... this is not how she rolled off the boat in Jan of 74'.... this 1974 model, made Dec 73', imported the following month and sold in Seattle... didn't have flasher relays, random fucking blue wires that connect to nothing and a botched Clarion Cassette tape deck installed... So, to fix this cuntnundrum, I propose to trace all of this shit out, tear all of this shit out, and redo it. The brake lights don't work, bulbs good, fuse is good, tomorrow we'll ask the volt meter. If not, I'm thinking... This cobbled mess... I doubt this is the factory part... the wires are twisted. I can't feel the contacts clicking inside like I can on other cars/trucks I've turned wrenches on. And the FSM basically just shows the wire running from the power distribution, through the fuse, through this contact, then into the light. Worst case, rewire the lights from the cab. If I do that, I'll rewire them all. Why do half a job? Questions, comments, concerns? Post them up.

Didn't want to lose such fine work... Let me direct your attention to center frame. There are two white tubes that look like they should be connected to something coming out of what I assume to be the thermostat housing. Yes/No? Any clue WTF those should connect to? Yes, that is a metal, paper covered, bread twist tie being used for spark plug wire management... fuck my life... that shall be dealt with soon. Let's focus on the carb. Can you tell me what it is? Do you know what air filter that is, and where I can get one that's not full of, what appears to be viper semen and cat hair? Someone had a lot more fun in this 620 than I have... Remember the wires I talked about that didn't seem to go anywhere... well... they have a lot of fucking friends. This is actually what started this. My reverse light, driver side, is on all the time. And my brake lights... don't work. As I go through routine trouble shooting I'll fix it, or start a sister thread. Since the lights don't work... it should probably be titled "Who's In My Mouth". Back on topic, I'm assuming this should not be like this. The truck runs though, so I'll try to sort through this shit and find out what goes where. Is there an easy way to tell what transmission is in it, or do I just setup a fuck ton of mirrors at random angles underneath and hope one of them shows me the number on top of the bell housing? Thanks for reading this, and for your input. I'd love to be able to speak eloquently about my Datsun knowledge... but it's blaringly obvious that I have none. I'll get there though.

I recently purchased this 620.... and some shit isn't adding up. Normally, I'd edit out the foul mouthedness but... well... I warned you. All those whom are offended by reading cursing on the internet... do not pass. There... now that's settled, let's get down to business. This little piggy says L18. This little piggy says L20B 606792 When in doubt, side with the block. With the obvious swap... my 1974 Service Manual is kinda nullified. Which of course is where the sheer fucking genius of having an online collective of enthusiasts really shows it's stripes. Can anyone tell me what year of car/truck this would have come from in case I need a... well... anything. The purpose of this is to identify the pieces under the hood, and to address anything that you believe to be clearly out of order. A little ribbing of the OP is also welcome. The wires running over the heater hose actually aren't hooked to anything... like many other wires under the hood.... but what I want to know is, WHAT HEAD IS THIS? Is this the right angle to tell? Please provide your input. Ok... breathe... who the fuck, fuckity, fuck, fuck, fuck puts a wirenut there?!? That's not how this works... that's not how any of this works.... if you have a picture/comment of how to not do this half assed... please share. I know the picture is sufficiently dark not to be clear, but it looks like the brake master has been upgraded. Of course, I could just be retarded. I'll keep posting pics in just a min...

Thanks, I'll be sure to look it up before I actually go anywhere. Been playing around the yuppie area I live in with the torsion bar adjustments... and yeah.... I'm too old for such shenanigans. I'll drop it about an inch and then when I convert the front to discs I'll just live with the ride height. A friend of mine, who I've literally know for 30 years, is doing an 81 Toyota pickup and we cut the middle leaf out and basically have it on half the original bump stops.... it looks fine but if you hit a pot hole it'll knock your teeth out... So, next up, disc brakes in the front.... or reupholstering the seat... one of those. In the meantime I'll be playing with the rusted out floor.