79D50

moved to the parts section....my mistake....

ATTN: Local Washington and Oregon Owners I have a clean (no grease or dirt) L20 block with pistons, rings, crank, bearings etc all intact and in good working order. It is approximately a 76 - 79 year. It is in my storage unit on a custom built dolly with 4 caster wheels. You can roll it wherever you need it. The sale price is $20 bucks which covers my time and gas to get to my storage unit in Gig Harbor. I want it gone. This is a good block with no cracks or issues. Also for Sale: New (slightly used) U67 Head with valves, lash pads, rockers, fuel pump, CAM cover, and a L20 "B" CAM intact. No cracks, no BS, all the parts and peices are in good shape (no grease or dirt). It is a bolt, adjust, and go application. **This came off the block advertised above*** Sale Price $200 obo... **Buy the head and the block is free*** 206.617.0649 or PM me.

Have a good time people. The "flame truck" won't be there this time. I am flying to Denver for the Holidays. Merry Christmas and Happy New Year to everyone.

The wifey and I will make a weekend out of it and camp. How do you reserve a spot or is is first come first serve style? I can bring a small WEBER BBQ and an LP stove for grub. I also have a nice 10x10 canopy we can set up to keep food undercover....I am all in for a caravan on the way down.....

ok..angry boy...neverfucking mind..good luck selling your junk.

These "liquid solutions" are garbage. If you have a problem, fix it the right way. Anything you pour into your radiator is going to find all the leaks and weakspots including your waterpump, radiator intake etc. It will not fix a problem, just delay it for a while and the more crap you pour into your radiator the more likely you will have a clogging or coolant issue down the road. I've heard of these products causing thermostat malfunctions. There is no such thing as liquid engineering, no fluids that give you 20hp or blah blah...Its all junk.

The 2.6 I have sitting on my stand is NA and would be a great motor in the 620 but it is already being installed in the D50 where it belongs. I have already measured and it would fit with the only modifications being to the engine and tranny mounts and a driveline - a given for just about any swap. The 2.6's are super reliable. As mentioned, if you take care of your motor and do the preventative maintenance it will last. It doesn't matter if it is a TDI, a L20, G54B or a lawnmower. The balance shafts a.k.a. silent shafts were a design that was engineered in Tokyo and adopted by Volvo, SAAB and Porsche in their early years - I will have to dig up that article. After 90+ K, it was part of the maintenance to replace the shaft bearings along with your chain and guides. If they seize, they prematurely wear your chain and guides and when that pops you have the potential of stuffing your valves. These are not considered interference motors but the quench area is very small and I have seen bent valves and broken pistons. When doing a serious teardown and rebuild, you always eliminate the shaft. It not only weighs 12 lbs, but you no longer have that parasitic drag on your chain. The one major caveat to this elimination is you must get your rotating assembly balanced. I had my crank polished and balanced along with my flywheel and front pulley. If you fail to do this and a lot of guys do, you are gonna shake, rattle and roll which = premature failure. The heads in the early years were much stronger than in the mid 80's and on. They had no jet valves. The jet valves were introduced as an emission control solution to unburnt fuel during combustion. They would essentially re-mix the fuel and air (swirl effect) to get a complete burn. It was a good idea at the time but the engineers designed it poorly. They put steel sleeves in the aluminum head to seat the valves. Steel expands and contracts at a different temperature than aluminum and once you overheat, you can crack your head around these jet valves. They make ellimination kits for these as well but guys that take the N/A and T cars seriously get a Marnal M28 head. I have one of these. They are cast in spain with a thicker mold which = more material around the water jackets and valves and there are no jet valves. These cost $400 bare. You then take that head to your machinist and port/polish, 5 angle valve grind, new seals, CAM, blah blah. You can build it however you like. These heads are awesome!!! G54B's crack heads due to overheating which is usually tied to a faulty cooling system, which can be PREVENTED with maintenance. The blocks on these motors are designed very well...I could go on and on... Common knowledge is eliminating the balance shafts and jet valves or getting a new head. These are the two faults of this motor if not taken very good care of. These little 4 bangers run forever and can be built to perfromance levels very easily. I stayed N/A because I am fabbing a C2 Procharger kit designed for the 2005 + 300z's. It will blow through my 38 with some jetting changes. I have to build a custome braket for the unit but the rest is just piping and a new crank pulley. Say hello to a realistic 60-70 HP. Tell me that wouldn't be fun in a 2700 lb truck. The beauty of this sytem is it stays mechanical.

I'm down with Harbor Freight. I wanted to look at their jacks.

1pm at Carl's -- I'm in! The truck is down in Lakewood anyways.

How about a G54B into a 620? I've heard people who don't know much about these motors hate on them but if they were so bad, why did 2 major automakers produce them from 1979 to 1993? You just have to know what combinations work just like the L series lineup. Stock they blow a L18, L20 away with TQ. When built they start producing real competitive numbers and they are uber reliable.

so how many people is that then...?

We can all tell that the guy I bought my 620 from was not knowledgeable about this build and was just blowing smoke. :blink: I bet it ran great but it is in need of some repair. A guy could put this all back together with some new gaskets, and a new timing kit. You would probably want to clean up the head and thoroughly inspect the bottom end. Once you spend a little money and time, this would be a great motor and run for 200k without any problems if you treated it nice. Those of you who were interested in this motor can still puchase the whole thing disassembled or I am going to sell peices individually. If that is the case, I am basically giving the block away for next to nothing as I want it out of my storage unit. It sits on a custom welded engine dolley with 4 caster wheels. It is easy to move and transport. You wouldn't need a cherry picker. Two guys can pick this thing up easy. I will put together some prices for the following: 1. Complete head with CAM and fuel pump. I would feel confident in slapping this on any motor and running it just the way it sits. 2. Complete timing cover with dizzy and oil pump 3. Valve Cover 4. Complete Block. After inspecting and cleaning this up....well, see #1 I would not have felt good about selling this as a replacement for someone as the condition of parts show that it would not have lasted and the runability would have been questionable. It was fun to take it apart and only took about an hour. I will figure out some prices on these parts individually and as a package deal. They will be posted in the For Sale section. If your curious...I don't want to keep any of this as my motor runs like a top and I am not in the business of storing engine parts. :cool:

Reviving this from the 4 pages back..... This last weekend my buddy and I dismantled that extra L18 I got in the purchase deal. The guy told me that it was a screaming little motor and had head and CAM work done. Well, as discussed above, I am glad I did the teardown. I am going to let the pictures with descriptions tell the story. Although this might have been a runner, I don't believe that it would have been a good reliable swap for someone based on what I found. Yes, you could have reconditioned and replaced some parts, but this was NOT a candidate for a direct replacement. Here is a picture of the motor before we started: You might not be able to tell from the pictures but the head is definitely newer than the block i.e. replaced or reconditioned. Here is a straight down view of the 32/36 and Offy intake: We took off the valve cover to see what kind of CAM this really had: Low and behold it is a stock U20 / L20 CAM. It looked to be in excellent condition with no pitting or score marks. There was some glazing (dark brown oil stains) but that is normal. This picture is a bit hazy but you get the jist of it: Here is the bottom of the head. It appears to be a closed chamber U67 with peanut design around the intake/exhaust valves. Being new to these heads I am not 100% certain whether this is good or bad. You can see that there is some carbon build-up. It clearly was running rich. Further inspection showed no unusual signs or wear. Here is another hazy picture but shows the valves up close. Does that say 16? Here is a closeup of the exhaust ports: Here is closeup of the intake ports: Another Head shot: Here is the head complete with valve cover. I already took off the CAM gear/chain and front cover: And now onto the block: Here is the passenger side lower half: Here is the top deck of the block: Here is a another view of the block: ...and another: ...and another: I did not take off the pan to inspect the rod and main bearings because I forgot the oil drain pan. It would be a good idea to plasti gauge all the bearings to make sure they are within tolerance. They are probably fine. Here is another shot from above. Quit eyeball fucking my beer..get your own...LMAO Now we are onto the front cover and timing assembly. You can tell from the picture that the guides were worn and the teeth on the sprockets were rounded over telling me that it has never been replaced or if it has, it was a long time ago. Here is another angle: Here is what happens when you drink to many MGD's: The front view of the motor with timing chain disassembled: Here are all the parts in the timing cover. A guy would have to buy a new kit for peace of mind: The next few shots are of the Offy intake. Once this is cleaned up it will go on my L18 along with the Tri-Y Header I picked up:

You gonna have a meet with 5 guys?? Wow...500+ views and twenty responses. Just lookers and no responders.

Talk to me about the Dodge D50....Year / Color / Model i.e. 2.6 sport or 2.0 with bench seat......any useable parts? Please PM me.

We should also post this to the truck and 510/240z sections to get a better crowd. This never gets looked at...

I'm down for a meet. I am in the North end so naturally that would be easier. The tacoma mall parking lot is ghetto...Perhaps we could secure something on the tacoma waterfront in Ruston. If you travel east just pass the old stack (where the tunnel is) there are a bunch or parking lots on the water. If we get there ealry enough we can occupy a lot, break out the portable BBQ's and have some burgers and beers. You can't do that at the Tacoma Mall but you will get hood rats and nobodies eyeballing your shiz waiting to steal something. It might not be as bad anymore, but it used to be. At Ruston, you don't have to ask anybodies permission. It is first come first serve. We could bring all of our spare parts and have a swap/trade meet. Any takers?

My first Datsun was a 1976 Datsun 710. I was 18 when I had that car. I bought my 1970 240Z when I was 23. I dumped 10K into it and it was a helluva nice ride. I sold it when I was 25. Ten years later at 35, I bought my 1976 620 truck.

Hey fella's...I got many of your PM's and just spaced on getting back. I took the spare L18 apart today to examine the head, block, timing cover etc. In a nuitshell this would not have been an ideal candidate for a direct replacement. The pictures will tell the story. I will have a a better description up tomorrow when I can get my camera pics downloaded. Some of these parts will be up for grabs. --Paul

A 620 Longbed Dimensions: 59 1/2 inches from outside egde to outside edge 91 1/2 inches from outside egde to outside edge This boils down to 5 x 8 approximately.

It's best just to hook it up the way it was designed. No mess, no smells = good for motor! I just picked up a tri-y for the l18 today...This will run with my Offy Dual Plane. The header is a quality design with the proper inside 1/2 washer flange. So mounted next to the intake it makes a lever tightening surface. It has never been installed as he bought it on liquidation from ?? 15 years ago.The welds are quality and it is designed like my Doug Thorley for the 2.6..It was advertised for a 620 and he paid $150 bucks for it.It also was designed for Cali use as there are lots of emmission hook ups. Some tasteful bungs...:blink: haha..and it will look nice once it is ceramic coated. I got the nice dished OEM washers to. With a good gasket..hahaha...goodbye leaks! I got the good brake hose off the spare as well....PCV problem will be fixed 100%. I have to dry fit everything as I think the torsion bar is going to be a challenge...If it doesnt work then at least I get the chance to change the intake/exhaust gasket. BTW - I got news on that L18 I advertised earlier. Sorry to those I didnt have time to repsond to..I will write on this later.

11828 U6001 yielded no results on the Nissan Site or the mydatsun site. I am pretty sure from the looks of the hose that this will work. I will just make a brake booster hose. I have no idea what this motor came out of. On page 2 of this thread is a pic of the engine block. you can clearly see L18 - 178024. I do not know how to decipher the latter half of that sequence but I can take a stab at the manufacture date of 1978?

I just ordered this and paid $21.99 to my front door. Thanks for the link and part number. If it does not fit properly it will be up for sale to other members here that may need it. Now I need to go back and order the Brake Booster Line....

I use to have a 1999 Mark VIII LSC.. Car was pretty quick. When the air bags failed for the 2nd time I sold it. That tan 620 would be cool restored with that ute box.

^^^^Agreed 100%. Think of it this way. It was such a good design and alternative that every manufacturer since the early to mid 60's has adopted it. How can that many engineers and designers be wrong or out to lunch? It's a simple design and definitely prolongs the life of the motor - common sense. I am sick of the smell in the CAB. I have no blowby. I also have no damn PCV hoses. You've seen the pictures...Its hooked up ass backwards and needs to be fixed. I will get to it this weekend. Thanks all that contributed advice. :cool: