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]2eDeYe

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Posts posted by ]2eDeYe

  1. 21 hours ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

    They are. Very "real". No blink182 music in the background.

     

    Side topic - why does social media promote heavy metal?

     

     

    Good to hear. 
    As far as real, the budget is blown and I expected to be done a while ago lol. 

    The music promotion, I have no idea. The algorithm doesn't make any sense to me.  

    I do like me some heavy metal, but I feel like the acoustic stuff is relatable to more people.
    That and it is easier to record, don't have to come up with drum tracks and bass lines. 🙂

     

  2. On 8/1/2023 at 9:54 PM, hucklefish said:

    In the middle of trying to figure out my options for upgrading or rebuilding the brakes on my 520, I found this: http://www.bluehandsvideo.com/uploads/4/4/3/5/4435437/datsun_interchange_1966-78.pdf

    I think I understand how this manual works, but could somebody correct me if I've got this wrong?

     

    On page 18 (520 index), for '66-69 front brake assembly, it says 304.

    image.png.0e1ec9d804bfa71dc4e81de3ff8afab3.png

     

    On page 40 under "304 FRONT BRAKE ASSY" I see parts numbers for RH and LH assemblies and the years and models these part numbers were used in ('66-69 520 and '69-72 521)

    image.png.9ea79ab799bbbced2af0aee53a2f3891.png

     

    From this I gather that I can use a front brake assembly for a 521 interchangeably with my original one, and I assume therefore that parts of that assembly are generally interchangeable as well, with some variations. The carpartsmanual diagrams show 3 part numbers for the '65-72 520/521 RH front brake assembly, so this seems to confirm that. Since carpartsmanual lists both a 3/4" and a 13/16" cylinder and the inerchange manual only lists 3/4", I assume I just have to know what part I have before I order.

    image.png.7dbed8a81fa059026c92702c94d7f3ea.png

     

    This wasn't a great example, because carpartsmanual combines the 520 and 521 brake parts. But scanning randomly, I find that "1126 HEATER CORE" was used in the '66-67 411 as well as the '66-72 520/521:

    image.png.3aa5fe10dbfdd6761fd3810dfa426b6f.png 

     

    Comparing carpartsmanual diagrams confirms they share the same part number, at least up until 9/68:

    image.png.fc6f1e64340dcba6198b8bf3a51dd466.png  AND  image.png.a9909ea02f3b4282e55775832fe8e29c.png

    So I should be able to swap a 411 heater core for my 520 heater core. Did I do that right?

     

    Next question, in the interchange manual, does anybody know what notes like these are referring to? Who has/provides "our #972"

    image.png.c3225f920f78400de442603b3e5b0259.png

     

    Third question - interchange means equivalent or identical parts, right? Not necessarily just parts that fit either model. Has anybody ever tried compiling a list of parts that can be swapped in a broader sense, as in they fit but may not be equivalent or identical?

     

    Thanks

     

     

    Paging Mike Klotz  

  3. On 11/24/2023 at 12:59 PM, bananahamuck said:


     

    trust me man,,  I have watched your videos at least 5 times since he got that 1000..  

       each time it is not all the way through 1 time ,, videos sometimes last 15 minutes . 
     

      His is so far apart he was going to drive down to Keepers just to take oics of underdash stuff ,, but it’s been sold . 
     

     

    Hopefully it will be useful to someone. 

    • Like 1
  4. 19 minutes ago, datzenmike said:

    What V8 is that Steve? Only ones I have ever seen are the 327 in a mid '60s car. Have drag raced a 343? Javelin (no problem) and tried to race a 390 Rambler Scrambler.

     

     

    4 hours ago, datzenmike said:

    Like the Toyota 22R... not strong enough to hurt itself, runs forever.

     

    They are built like a brick shithouse, they will deflect your average engine stand in full dress lol. 


    The engine in it is an AMC 360 out of a Jeep Cherokee Chief. 
     

    The AMC V8 was available from 304 up to 401 from the factory. 
    Big, heavy, shit mileage V8, but will pull all day long. 

    The CJ came with a 304 originally, sucked a valve on that one though. 
    Had to go hunting for these pics, they were pre-photobucket, circa 2003.   
    Good times 😄

    DSCN1099.thumb.JPG.693bdcbc322739c32a9c1d9179fc1c83.JPG

     

    DSCN1100.thumb.JPG.a95310781e9676f2e8151560570451e1.JPG

    DSCN1103.thumb.JPG.12e0701f307a901f8377c78c1b61703e.JPG

     

    DSCN1101.thumb.JPG.1ac44b2427fe1625953d23b9fba686a4.JPG

     


     

    7 hours ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

    Either a 304 or a 360. My Cherokee has a 360. RUns great, gets 14 mpg, not too powerful though. But then, it has 3.54 diffs.

     

    I don't think I ever got above single digit mileage, but it is hard to keep my foot out of it in this go-cart/rollercoaster thing. 😄

    • Like 4
  5. On 11/19/2023 at 6:18 PM, EDM620 said:

    Not a good idea to remove leaves (cheap tho) as the pressure point shift can result in a broken leaf. Some might have a different opinion on that...


    Probably something I won't ever get to. 35"s at 12 psi do a lot for the ride lol. 
     

    9 hours ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

    In theory you are correct, but in practice, unless you're spring is going from one arc to the other repeatedly, broken springs are not likely. I have seen springs break at the ends and near the spring perch, but not usually in the middle of the span. I said "usually".

     

    To lower the ride height in my '57 Rover, I removed leaves and played around with the height, but could never get it where I wanted it, so I ended up putting one leaf in upside down. Yes, it was a bear to clamp together, but it works like a charm.

     
    I am planning to flip the main on my red truck. 
    I remember back in the day a buddy pulled all but the main leaf on his 720. Lowered it quite a bit, the ride was a little rough lol. 

    • Like 1
  6. 19 hours ago, Soundline said:

    When are we going Jeeping Red?

     

    Hopefully going out before the end of the year, but we all know how plans go. Not sure when I will get it to that side of the Cascades. 

     

     

    8 hours ago, EDM620 said:

    If you plan on doing water crossings, one tip that helps the electrics - wrap each connection with plastic wrap then smother with silicone. The plastic wrap allows for future servicing as it keeps the silicone out of the connection - simply slice the blob and unwrap to access your connection.


    Nice. Let's see if I remember this when I get to wiring. 
     

     

    6 hours ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

    Does it run yet?

     

    I'd be interested in hearing how that paint holds up over time.


    It does run, but is not currently running. 
    Last thing to do before tires, is finishing up the wiring. I still keep finding other stuff to fix though. 
     

    Me too.
    The rattle can rustoleum from the last round of frame repair actually held up not bad. 

     

     

    6 hours ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

    I was on the Rubicon a few years ago, crossing the Rubicon river just down stream from the Rubicon Springs and the water was so deep that it was flowing over my feet. Right in the middle of the hole, the Rover started cutting out. So what did I do? I leaned into the throttle. Nothing worse than getting stalled right in the middle of a flowing river.

     

    Got to camp and found that the tip of the coil was cracked off, and water was getting into the coil wire. Nobody in camp had a spare coil, so I got to fixin.

     

    Solution? Jam a bunch of black RTV into the coil wire boot, stuff it into place, then safety wire the boot onto the coil. It's been like that ever since...

     

     

    This is me fixing all that sort of thing, mostly lol. 

    Sometimes the trail fix works too well to mess with.

    Rubicon is on the someday list. 

    • Like 1
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