benzo

did you actually test for spark of the coil wire? then after testing the coil did you get spark to the ignition wires to the plugs? sort of process of elimination. for me I would of took off the coil wire and ground it and had someone crank the motor if you had spark then go to the ignition wires and do the same or even pull plug out with wire attached and crank and if spark is rhere then look at fuel. Now if you took the coil wire off and there is no spark there then for sure it would a coil or even bad coil wire or wiring to the coil is bad. hard for me to say as i don't know the extent of your test. Now to backtrack if you have spark to the plugs then check for fuel or fuel pressure. if you have no fuel then you most likely have a fuel pump issue or a block in the line or clogged fuel filter.

now if you have both fuel and spark check timing in regards to cam and crank timing and also if the distributor is lined up correctly.

after looking at your title if you have a KA motor and dist then the dist itself may be a issue. would you have another known good dist to try to swap out?

this motor set up is hard up. I like the header wrap on the intake man and I have been toying with getting a external oil feed and spray bar also and ITG filters. any idea of the estimated hp on this motor?

I could do 110 shipped on the trans

 

 

Sent you a pm on the realm, trans works good we onlu used it for one event, no grinding or any other noises.

 

 

 

We would really like to keep the head an block together cause the pistons are machined to fit the head. But we do have another complete #219 head that we would sell..

Ok responded back on the realm. can you send me your paypal and also what method of shipping will you be doing and can you give a tracking #?

thanks

Ben

would you take 60.00 for the zx trans and how much shipped to 94109 san francisco? I assume you take paypal and what is the condition of the zx trans?

thanks

Benzo

a thread was started by DTP on Fram filter issues and I just started to try out the napa gold filter and so far it is ok. can't notice anything from fram unless I was able to cut open but seeing cut out pics of filters shows the napa is a nicer made filter. try the napa filter or maybe Wix. not sure on motorcraft on hos well made they are.

CA summed up? <_<

more like BMW drivers (or 'luxury' sedans in general)

 

 

and drivers are worse in SF than LA.

i think its all the 1 way streets.

 

 

 

 

"save california! when you leave, take someone with you."

Sf drivers are not worse they are just self righteous. LA drivers just don't care. haha. I used to laugh at watching that show CHiPs but now it looks more and more like life imitatiing art. people are just bad drivers to begin with or they are making cars so easy to drive people are careless. I love seeing the lady mashing down the freeway over 80 putting on her makeup and trying to drink coffee.

That is a good decision but for me I would just try to get a complete longblock and swap over and sell off the old head and or remaining parts. saves a lot of time and no hassle of all that head swapping. in and out. yeah i would not take anything less that 6k or even 8k at that. I have seen some cars with just a L series go for 6k and up but bodies are clean.

I wouldn't sell I would keep it. wagons that are in good to decent shape are getting tough to find let alone swapped with a SR motor. I would just store the car for a while and save up and get another longblock and pop back in.

congrats on getting the car back safely also and for the network of datsun owners lookin out. Dillon you are a hero. put a cape on you. cool story.

don't know what to say. needs a lot of work but if you really like it keep on it to get it going.

whoa that pic is a dream for all of us or at least me. looks like fun. need to go there and see for myself

Those are ratsun brakes. rising sun style

The Napa in my area is super small. almost a mom and pop size. I may look into the 1515 filter # if they have that but not a big deal for me if I have to order it came the next day and I was not in a rush. If I order at least two I have at least one on my shelf for future oil changes. lucky I have used all my Fram oil filters for the wagon.

I will check the receipt. the guy did not say anything about sale. just said have to order and it cost this much. I may buy more unless the wix is the same or equivalent as napa stores are not so abundant in my area. Kragen is easy for me as there is one two blocks from my house.

Don't buy the 1521. It's the same filter as a 1515 and twice the cost. I noted that a few posts before. Literally, the same micron rating and everything. It may come up as specified, but you certainly don't need to use it. Especially when the 1515 Ford V8 fits all filter is half the cost.

 

Did I mention we're having the NAPA filter sale, going on now? All Gold filters are at employee price or close to it. Massive savings. We do it twice a year. This month is one of those times. Stock up now!!!! I think it's nationwide, but I know for sure the Spokane area is doing it.

well I paid 5 dollars for my gold filter at a local store and not online. I did not see your post about the 1515. if you can get the gold filters for less than what i paid I may be interested but then shipping will get me.

Thanks for the replies guys. I am looking for an accurate procedure and torque specs. I got new Koyo bearings and want to do this job once and have it last a long time. Benzo if you have the specs, I'd appreciate the information! I read on the Z car forums it's 20 ft lbs tighten, then back off 60 degrees but wanted to confirm it. A friend of mine is going to do the job for me, and he is actually the one who asked me about this info- and he won't do it without the proper numbers and procedure. I'd hate to go buy the maintenance book for a 280zx since I won't ever use it again!

My chilton manual says the following

torque locknut to 18-22 ft. lbs. turn the hub back and forth to seat the bearing and re-torque the lock nut to the same figure.

turn the locknut at least 60 degrees to 75 degrees until the nut is aligned properly for the cotter pins

also it says for zx hubs front wheel bearings should be repacked every 24 months.

I went yesterday and had to order a napa filter # 1521 for a 510. surprised they don't stock it so that means I would have to keep inventory on them for the future. I put it on today and did not notice anything major but will have to drive some to see if I notice anything. one thing I notice is the size is a bit smaller that the Fram unit so wondering if that would mean the filter would consume less oil in the body resulting in more oil to the motor? will post a update if I notice anything.

From what I remember was I cleaned the components and got new bearing seals and then lubed up the bearings and race and all with good bearing grease and mounted the hub assembly and then would use a socket on a ratchet or breaker bar and then snung and back off and snug while spinning the hub assembly. looking for smooth spinning but not too tight to not over tighten the bearings. the bearings themselves do not need to be pressed into anything. I think I have torque specs at home I can send you

Also make sure the bearing and race condition is in good shape or not burned up or broken bearings.

Benzo

to the top

welcome and good luck on your project. wagons are growing in popularity.

changed the cap rotor and plugs on the motor.going to get a napa filter tomorrow to try those out from the thread about how Fram filters are junk

Shit,the picture of the EE brand you guys are showing is what i replaced,if its not that brand its very similar,i replaced them because they were 20 years old and one of them was cracking.Again thanks for the information guys

if the delrin is still in good shape and cups on the EE kit are ok just get new rubber bushings from like motorsport auto for a Z and use those or do that mod on the urethane one to use on one side. if it were me and the old EE kit is still in good shape get stock oem bushing from motorsport auto.

Either get a set of the TC bushings from Experimental Engineering or drill holes in the Poly bushings to make them more compliant.

 

Carter Boad is the guy to talk to for the EE stuff.

 

CarterB@ELECTROIMPACT.COM

 

EE kit.

 

 

The Dime Quarterly had an article showing the proper way to modify poly bushings.

 

http://www.dimequarterly.tierranet.com/articles/tech_tcrod.html

 

 

 

Tension / Compression Rod Modification

A simple modification may help prevent T/C rod failures

Article and Illustrations by Kelvin Dietz

 

One of the most noticeable changes you can make to your car's handling is to replace the old rubber suspension bushings. By now they are well past their useful life and should probably be replaced. This was all covered in a previous DQ article, and one of the recommendations was to replace the stock Tension/Compression (T/C) rod bushings with Energy Suspension polyurethane bushings.

 

For a street driven or an autocross/street car, I think this is the best option. Parts are easy to come by, simple to install and maintenance free. However, I found an unpleasant side effect from these bushings that I thought I would share.

 

On a recent trip across town, I experienced the failure of my passenger-side T/C rod. I hit a small bump, heard a pop and noticed a slight pull to the right, but didn't think much of it as the car still went FAIRLY straight. I drove the car home and took the wheel off to find the problem. I nearly had a heart attack when I noticed the T/C rod had snapped in half at the shoulder behind the bushing. Not a problem at 30 M.P.H. on a city street, but potentially VERY damaging on a tight lefthander at 60 mph.

 

I'm surprised we haven't heard of more failures like this. Even though I've attempted to restore the stock front control arm angle by using bumpsteer spacers, my T/C rods are still angled up in comparison to stock. Between that and the stiffer bushings, the T/C rods experience much more stress than they do at stock ride height.

 

In light of this experience, I suggest modifying the polyurethane T/C bushings. I drilled six 5/16" holes around the perimeter of the center mounting hole. These should allow the T/C rod to pivot more easily and still offer the advantage of the stiffer bushing when braking and/or cornering. I recently replaced both of my T/C rods with a set from a car that had never been lowered. I also had that set Magnifluxed to be sure they were still in good shape. I shudder to think of the consequences of a high-speed failure.

 

DQ

I agree with Dave. I have Carters kit on my car with one side of a stock oem bushing and it works great. no noise and good control and stable. I also have his delrin idler bushing kit also. I also changed out all my other worn out suspension components and got a alignment and for a old car with old steering design it is totally stable and sensitive for driving. I have had urethane before and thank god I was able to sell them as it was noisy. made the car sound junky

yeah this makes me a bit curious as I do use Fram and for me to date have not noticed any issues but maybe something is going on I can't see. well there is a napa not too far I will go buy some gold filters and try it out and see what happens or if I notice anything. This is a good topic. no one wants to see a motor killed by a 5 dollar part

alright thank u ya i bought the glasspack with my parents and girlfriend the other day so i plan on taking it to a shop in a few days so i will update you guys with some pics.

Good luck. worse case if you don't like it you can always use if for maybe a pre silencer and then add a muffler like the super turbo or borla or magnaflow or dynomax. this way it can tone it down even more and not hurt performance