hughdogz Posted February 13, 2009 Report Share Posted February 13, 2009 :confused:okay so these are beyond my fixing level i guess i am baffeled... Shaggs, I wouldn't give up just yet. SU's are super-simple (compared to other carbies). Is there something that you didn't understand from my post? I can elaborate and provide more step-by-step instructions for the hints if you want. :) Quote Link to comment
RB_Shaggs Posted February 13, 2009 Author Report Share Posted February 13, 2009 thanks for the help but i have had these things apart like 6 times and i have checked http://www.jetlink.net/~okayfine/sutech.html and followed most of that stuff step by step. i just can't get them to run right when i think i have it, i drive it around the block and it just falls flat on its face when i get up in rpm. i adjusted the floats the way that site says yet still the front carb will start flooding out if i leave the fuel pump on too long. i might tear them off and try to go through them again, but my boss is getting frustrated with me taking my work truck home, so i want the linkage for the down draft so i can get it running for now while i try to rebuild them again. Quote Link to comment
slodat Posted February 14, 2009 Report Share Posted February 14, 2009 Is your float level correct? What are you using for dampening fluid? Quote Link to comment
RB_Shaggs Posted February 14, 2009 Author Report Share Posted February 14, 2009 i adjusted the float by using these steps Mark a line on the sides of your float bowls that is 23mm from the top lip of the bowls. Attach a length of clear plastic tubing (ala fish tank stuff) to the outlet on the bottom of the float bowl. Be careful, you're dealing with gas! If you have a mechanical fuel pump, disconnect the coil. Electric pump guys can never mind. To make it easier on your starter, you should also remove the spark plugs. Make sure your car is out of gear and the parking brake is on. Turn over your motor (key to "ON" for elec. pump guys) until the fuel in the plastic line stabilizes. Compare this to the mark you made on the float bowl. Adjust your float lever until the fuel in the line matches up with the mark on the float bowl. Lather, rinse, repeat. Now go and reset the throttle balance, sync the carbs, set the mixture, and you're off!! Simple... as far as damping fluid i am using ATF Quote Link to comment
slodat Posted February 14, 2009 Report Share Posted February 14, 2009 My guess is your dampening fluid is all wrong. Try something a little heavier... Quote Link to comment
RB_Shaggs Posted February 18, 2009 Author Report Share Posted February 18, 2009 well i finally took pics of the car good side bad side back front engine bay Quote Link to comment
damon Posted February 18, 2009 Report Share Posted February 18, 2009 (edited) so looking at your pics. Have you tried disconnecting those hoses from the overflows and driving it? They will not run right if those vents are not getting adequite air. The factory just ran them down via steel lines straight to the ground under the motor. When I rebuilt mine last summer I adjusted the floats to, I think it was .55". I have always run ATF in the dampers and never had any problems with them. Edited February 18, 2009 by damon Quote Link to comment
RB_Shaggs Posted February 18, 2009 Author Report Share Posted February 18, 2009 no i will try that Quote Link to comment
RB_Shaggs Posted February 21, 2009 Author Report Share Posted February 21, 2009 okay so i un capped the breathers and fixed a couple vacum leaks now she is running. carbs are still running pretty rich. does anyone have a good starting point for the mixtures. i.e. fuel screw so many turns down and air idle screw so many turns. so i can have a better starting point to fine tune it.. Quote Link to comment
damon Posted February 21, 2009 Report Share Posted February 21, 2009 glad to hear it's running! I usually start with the fuel screws turned about 3 turns out. the air screws are really based on using a Uni-syn to match them. and adjust for a good idle. You need one of those and or take it to someone who knows S.U.'s and can show you how to adjust them. I spent alot of time watching Pat Roberts at Beacon Automotive in Ballard, Wa and he taught me alot. Quote Link to comment
RB_Shaggs Posted March 14, 2009 Author Report Share Posted March 14, 2009 :D yeah i finally got a uni-sync.. hopefully now i can get the car tuned right.. Quote Link to comment
RB_Shaggs Posted March 16, 2009 Author Report Share Posted March 16, 2009 (edited) so leave it to my luck lately.. so i had the car running borderline perfect, but my OCD being what it is i wanted to get it a little better and now i am way out of tune again.:o :confused:i have no power in low range starts to clean up in the middle then falls flat bogs and tries to die in the high range and stays all boggey. i think my timing is a little off again. but my main issue is when i put my uni-sync on the front carb it tries to kill the car but it doesn't do that on the back carb. any suggestions. also the wierdest thing my tach was not working just bouncing around then when i was adjusting my timing on the distributor my tach started working and not bouncing so much. i hate fixing PO F-ups.. Edited March 16, 2009 by RB_Shaggs Quote Link to comment
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