ElliotV Posted April 15 Author Report Share Posted April 15 3 minutes ago, 620slodat said: Most likely the thread sealant should NOT have been there. The block provides the ground. Don Ok I will pull the sensor back out and remove the thread sealer if that doesn't work I may run a ground from the "bolt" of the sensor to the chassis or something Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted April 15 Report Share Posted April 15 Another2 reasons you don't use sealer, Nissan didn't and it's a taper thread so it makes a tighter seal as you screw it in. Like a valve and valve seat. Quote Link to comment
ElliotV Posted April 15 Author Report Share Posted April 15 (edited) 1 hour ago, datzenmike said: Another2 reasons you don't use sealer, Nissan didn't and it's a taper thread so it makes a tighter seal as you screw it in. Like a valve and valve seat. Okay I pulled the sender and cleaned off the threads and stuck it back in and I still didn't get anything I took the old one which did still read and tested for continuity between the casing and the threads to see if the casing was something I could test to and it did so I tested for continuity between the casing and the negative battery terminal which I did get continuity but the oil light still won't turn off and the gauge doesn't work is there a ohm reading I can read to see if I'm actually getting a signal out of the sender to check if the sender is bad Edit I tested the ohms running vs not and the sender is good so I believe the connector is bad Edited April 15 by ElliotV Quote Link to comment
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