Harvesting body panels from donor car for restoration.

[TheBirdistheWord]

I have a front end for a dime that was cut off with a jig saw about 12 inches back from the core support.  Id like to "disassemble" this so to speak so I can reclaim as much as possible also for having proper references for fitment when I go disassemble/restore the recipient vehicle.  Id like to avoid cutting unnecessarily to try and reassemble similar to factory. 

 

I'm very confident that a path will present itself after I get the unit sand blasted however I was wondering if anyone had any tips, tricks, or documentation on how to find the spot welds to drill out and measurements for reinstalling? 

 

Planning rust repair/restoration on pretty much entire underside of cabin including outer frame rails and front end in the coming weeks. As always Any help or advice is greatly appreciated. 

 

 

Edit: because I'm a dummy I forgot to mention, I also have a doner car that is virtually rust free but wrecked in the rear.  Plan is to use whatever I need from that for cabin repairs, if there's enough left over I'll put it back together as some kind of sheet paneled/caged frankendime. 

Edited January 9 by TheBirdistheWord

[TheBirdistheWord]

Er....  Anyone?

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

FInding spot welds is best done before the paint is removed. Using a coarse wire wheel, grind away at the weld seams and the spot welds will become apparent. If you are using the panels you are drilling out, then think ahead of what size drill bit to use. I don't use spot weld cutters because they leave behind too large a hole to weld up. I usually start with 3/16 bits and make sure it's in the center of the spot weld, and drill until you think you are through the first layer of metal. If the panel behind the first panel is not going to be used, then drill all the way through. I might step up to a 1/4" or even 5/16" bit if it's a really stubborn weld. SOmetimes there will be rust in between the seams, making it easy to see when you're through the first layer.

 

If you can get to the backside of the panel that you want to re-use, drill from that side instead. Then once the panels are separated, you can punch new holes in exactly where you want them.

 

After the spot welds are drilled, use a seam splitter. I use a Steck 20015 Seam Buster - https://www.amazon.com/Steck-20015-Seam-Buster/dp/B000JFJMJ6

 

And a punch like this. 3/16" hole is a good size  - https://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-14-gauge-metal-hand-punch.html?gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQiAhomtBhDgARIsABcaYyn06sAv6lABOd4u_q81N5w3V2MQngXtIROro9Re5JO5KzuCO1VHtvIaAgaUEALw_wcB&wcid=18669317454&wickedid=629946436999&wickedsource=google&wv=4

 

I use one like this, but it's so old, I don't know where it came from

 

If you can get the metal clean without blasting, great, but if you have a blaster, even a handheld one, definitely blast and prime between the layers before they are put back together. You'll be sorry if you don't. Oh, and don't wast money on weldable paint. Just paint the layers with any old primer and then clean the metal where you want to spot weld with a small carbide burr on a die grinder. If you're punching new holes, I try to prime before I punch the holes, that way there is no paint to clean up.

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

I know San Mateo isn't close exactly, but if you're ever in my neck of the woods, I'd be happy to give you a lesson in drilling, splitting and assembling panels.

[TheBirdistheWord]

On 1/13/2024 at 10:20 AM, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

FInding spot welds is best done before the paint is removed. Using a coarse wire wheel, grind away at the weld seams and the spot welds will become apparent. If you are using the panels you are drilling out, then think ahead of what size drill bit to use. I don't use spot weld cutters because they leave behind too large a hole to weld up. I usually start with 3/16 bits and make sure it's in the center of the spot weld, and drill until you think you are through the first layer of metal. If the panel behind the first panel is not going to be used, then drill all the way through. I might step up to a 1/4" or even 5/16" bit if it's a really stubborn weld. SOmetimes there will be rust in between the seams, making it easy to see when you're through the first layer.

 

If you can get to the backside of the panel that you want to re-use, drill from that side instead. Then once the panels are separated, you can punch new holes in exactly where you want them.

 

After the spot welds are drilled, use a seam splitter. I use a Steck 20015 Seam Buster - https://www.amazon.com/Steck-20015-Seam-Buster/dp/B000JFJMJ6

 

And a punch like this. 3/16" hole is a good size  - https://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-14-gauge-metal-hand-punch.html?gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQiAhomtBhDgARIsABcaYyn06sAv6lABOd4u_q81N5w3V2MQngXtIROro9Re5JO5KzuCO1VHtvIaAgaUEALw_wcB&wcid=18669317454&wickedid=629946436999&wickedsource=google&wv=4

 

I use one like this, but it's so old, I don't know where it came from

 

If you can get the metal clean without blasting, great, but if you have a blaster, even a handheld one, definitely blast and prime between the layers before they are put back together. You'll be sorry if you don't. Oh, and don't wast money on weldable paint. Just paint the layers with any old primer and then clean the metal where you want to spot weld with a small carbide burr on a die grinder. If you're punching new holes, I try to prime before I punch the holes, that way there is no paint to clean up.

 

This is exactly what I was looking for! Thank you!

 

On 1/13/2024 at 10:21 AM, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

I know San Mateo isn't close exactly, but if you're ever in my neck of the woods, I'd be happy to give you a lesson in drilling, splitting and assembling panels.

I will 100% take you up on this offer, pm sent