Suspension upgrade

[Lonewolf1220]

I'm looking to do a fun project of putting a 383 in but I want to upgrade the front end. I'm thinking coilover. Does anyone know of a kit I can get to weld in or have any other suggestions?

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[datzenmike]

I would upgrade the stopping power first. '83 and on 720 spindles/calipers and rotors or those from the D21 Hardbody, perhaps the VG30 calipers like wayno has. Rears are fine, rear disc don't stop any better.

 

The 720 has torsion bars and they are adjustable for holding up extra engine weight. Did you mean a coil over shock? SBC are boat anchors get an LS all aluminum.

 

 

[Lonewolf1220]

19 minutes ago, datzenmike said:

I already have a 383, plus I don't want to run an ls because I don't want to use a computer I want it carburated. Yes I want coilover springs. I'm trying to figure out the best way to completely change the front. I've seen stuff that can be welded in that is a whole kit but wondering if there is one that will work for these trucks. I already planned on upgrading the brakes, plan on running front and rear disc.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[datzenmike]

Running something simply because you have it is never a good idea. It limits your options, but I hear you. Pretty sure you can carburate an LS if you want to.

 

The 720 already has springs and shocks so if replacing them it has to be something with an advantage or an upgrade. The L20B weighs about 380 pounds. The 383 well over 500 and like I said is adjustable. I would try it first before dropping hundreds of $$ on something. It's a truck... it carries about 1,100 pounds of payload it can handle it.

 

The front disc brakes do all the work because weight shifts forward during braking increasing traction and reducing lock up and the rear weight becomes less, increasing the likelihood of lock up. The drum brakes are more than enough for stopping. The advantage of rear disc are they are simpler, more fade resistant from heat and need almost no maintenance. The later 720 calipers are much larger and the early 'dinner plate' replaced with a larger vented rotor. Later Hardbody VG30 calipers are dual piston.

[Lonewolf1220]

Well was going to be putting aluminum heads on the 383 so it's not going to be as heavy as stock. I understand brakes, 70%-30%. 70% of your braking comes from the front and 30% from the rear. The rear is going to be replaced with a Ford 9". I understand that if I'm replacing the front springs it needs to be better. Hence why I'm asking for input on what everyone suggests to run to help with that. Also as for the LS I really don't want to do it because espesially around where I am thats all everyone does to get power and I want something unique. If using what I have limits me than so be it but I don't see a point in spending money on another engine when I already have one.

 

 

[Z-train]

On 3/21/2023 at 5:48 PM, datzenmike said:

Running something simply because you have it is never a good idea. It limits your options, but I hear you. Pretty sure you can carburate an LS if you want to.

 

The 720 already has springs and shocks so if replacing them it has to be something with an advantage or an upgrade. The L20B weighs about 380 pounds. The 383 well over 500 and like I said is adjustable. I would try it first before dropping hundreds of $$ on something. It's a truck... it carries about 1,100 pounds of payload it can handle it.

 

The front disc brakes do all the work because weight shifts forward during braking increasing traction and reducing lock up and the rear weight becomes less, increasing the likelihood of lock up. The drum brakes are more than enough for stopping. The advantage of rear disc are they are simpler, more fade resistant from heat and need almost no maintenance. The later 720 calipers are much larger and the early 'dinner plate' replaced with a larger vented rotor. Later Hardbody VG30 calipers are dual piston.

Mike- yer fergittin' about the NLSV.

 

[datzenmike]

The NLSV has no effect on braking except below conditions.

 

The NLSV senses the rear of the truck sitting lower from increased cargo weight. The NLSV is mounted on the frame and tilted up at the front. There is a heavy steel ball inside that rolls up hill when braking and blocks/restricts brake fluid to the rears. As the back lowers the upward tilt increases and the ball has has a harder time restricting brake pressure to the rear brakes so more braking effort is applied. Because there is an increased weight on the rear tires, which also increases traction, this lessens the chance of lock up so more braking can be applied. 

 

So if you just picked put a couple of fat chicks in the back, you can brake with confidence knowing your NLSV will take care of it.