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Z24i Distributor Aem 54mm wheel

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Hey there, I located and appropriated a Z24i distributor and ordered an AEM trigger wheel. The Z24i dizzy came from a vehicle of unknown miles. I would like to rebuild or refurbish it. Bearing spin freely at the moment and according to all military flow charts. 1. Will it work? If yes, DON'T FUCK WITH IT. But, I have this silly notion that if I replace what is worn and clean and coat parts, then another 100k will be easy.


Anyone, know what is common rebuild/refurbish practice with these distributors? 

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On 8/8/2022 at 8:16 AM, datzenmike said:

These are just spinning spindles. Not like a points distributor that fights against the spring to open and close. There is virtually no load and little wear on them.

Thank you DatzenMike! It took more searching than I like, but I found a exploded parts diagram that matches my distributor and provides the information needed for disassembly reassembly. Or more precisely, provides enough information to persuade me to try it. If this follows my well established pattern, I will be returning with problems/pieces that do not look like the pictures and/or attempting to decipher instructions written by literary sadists. But, my ratio of "fixed" or "sorted" vs. creating scrap metal currently favors the former and I am running with it. 


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In this scattered world, I suppose I should be thankful for consistency. As predicted, there is bullshit amok in the Z24i/Aem trigger wheel endeavor. Attempting to remove the wheel "scanner" to access the old trigger wheel, to replace with Aem, I addressed a Phillips head screw on one side and a dish (no screw or other fastener exposed) on the other. The Phillips head screw was mounted in epoxy (I discovered after only an hour, or so, messing with it.) 

Is the epoxy mount Nissan SOP? Did I miss an important step in disassembly? I used a small auger and the screw turns, without upward progress. The sensor, at this point will likely be replaced, but I do not know what is beneath it, what should avoid damaged when removing. A final question and one that often causes heartache but must be addressed, was a "better" sensor developed, to replace this one? If so, lack of concern for the current sensor would expedite removal.


Edited by frankendat
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28 minutes ago, datzenmike said:

Chalk this up to: don't fix what ain't broken. If it don't work just replace it. Very seldom does an after market part perform better than an original part.

Yikes, that would be awful, were the screws attaching the sensor epoxied by Nissan, to make them unable to be removed? The after market wheel is needed to utilized Megasquirt (or Megasquirt similar) Ecu's. Are the Z24i distributors considered "disposable" (not economically viable to make or sell replacement components)? To use Megasquirt is it necessary to convert to COP?

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4 hours ago, datzenmike said:

Chalk this up to: don't fix what ain't broken. If it don't work just replace it. Very seldom does an after market part perform better than an original part.

Sweet Mother Mary! Like most everything, I learn by fucking it up, the first time (This is often a painful path of instruction) The two "screws", which I thought may not be removable are, with tools and determination, removable, but were never intended to be. The portion of the optical sensor that protrudes over the trigger wheel is not a separate piece, it is attached, to a big black round section in the main body of the distributor. Next time I get a wild hair to do unnecessary Nissan/Datsun work away from home, either I have the shop manual or I leave it alone simmer down


Thank you for the guidance, I continue to prove is necessary

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Trying to learn from my mistakes and inquiring before removal.  In what I would call the nose of this distributor, the brass colored part in the center of the distributor pictured in this thread, there sits a hex head fastener. In this youtube instruction 

The YouTuber removes the brass nose and shows it to the camera with the hex head fastener still inside. The Youtuber mentions that the hex head fastener is 8mm. 8mm is 5/16 SAE. None of my 5/16 sockets will fit in the brass nose. Thin walled 5/16 sockets are not available locally. Before I sand off the socket chrome and/or turn an off brand socket down to fit, which may or may not be successful depending on the amount of material removed and torque required to loosen the fastener. Are there other methods of removing this part? Is the hex head inside the nose really 8mm? Is it significant that the hex head fastener remains in the nose, as shown in the Youtube video? Thank you

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The weekend spent and even ignoring the project all Monday, (responsibility interrupts project, but at least dealing with someone else's micky mouse bullshit pays, I love aggravation so much I do it at home for free) it hasn't fixed itself. My little Nissan is starting to become a spiteful bitch.


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DuraCoated Dizzy. Duracoat is not as strong as Ceracoat, but is much more forgiving, in application.  Some media slipped into the Dizzy and contaminated the top shaft bearing and lower shaft bushing. The bearing appears sealed and the bushing is easily sterilized, so a bit of luck and all is good.






                                                                                                                                                                                                     I have a feeling an OEM replacement will be coZ24i_dizzy_5_19.thumb.jpg.d12781438df32d821485353a916e353e.jpgstly, but there might be options.

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To check cost on the "sealed" dizzy bearing, I entered the bearing number and discovered the bearing is readily available. I also learned the bearing is only sealed on one side, which makes media contamination a certainty. All is not lost, only slowed a bit, I ordered a sealed (both sides) no lube ceramic bearing from China, for less than 10USD (including shipping). The potential media contamination provided the excuse for ceramic and a salvageable fallback if ceramic has problems that are not mentioned.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Crank angle sensor for a Z24i

Advanced Auto Parts carries one for $54.99 (MEC2282)

RockAuto price ranges from $85.79 (NTK EH0290) - $101.79 (Standard Motor Products LX-653)

Ebay price ranges $53.99 (LX-653) $143.82 (Walker Products 234-1649)

Alibaba $120.00 for 5, 5 is minimum order, $20.00 each (There was a way to get them for $15.00 ea., but I am not fluent in Alibaba.

Aliexpress was similar to ebay.

I bought one of the $53.99 units from ebay. It looks like all the others, but I have been unable to confirm information on it; the only marks are “LH02”.

So, I am still a capitalist, but I squeal, when it gets extreme. Alibaba is not selling at a loss and if we listen to Shark Tank, the least you can sell products for and survive as a company is double acquisition cost. It can be assumed that Alibaba’s cost per unit is at most $10.00 (likely less). How the sensor is offered and sold for 10X+ is crazy and EVERYTIME I am able to research ANY PART I discover this same kind of pricing bullshit it is like sand in swim shorts,doubly so, when I don’t have time to research and I know I’m getting hosed.




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More Bearings 1.

Found a local bearing supply, fairly priced with a good selection 🙂

Chickened out of ceramic bearings. In research, that should have occurred BEFORE purchase,  I discovered  ceramic bearing don't like big temp swings. Idaho had big temp swings. I was on the fence and that proved enough to void experimentation before completion or, I should say avoid unnecessary, unproven experimentation, as much as possible. The top bearing is the ceramic, next is a metal sealed bearing. The bearing guy said it was probability overkill, but the metal sealed were close in price to rubber sealed. The ceramic bearing was identified by size. The rubber sealed are 6200 LU and the metal sealed 6200 ZZC3 EMQ. Ceramic was $10.00 and metal sealed $6.00, rubber sealed were $5.75. I was willing to pay retail and did no research, as amounts were small. If bearings follow the same bullshit, then they are likely offered somewhere for $3.00 or less, but shipping might get you, unless you buy a bunch. Dist2_25.thumb.jpg.c954475bf8e069bb141a13a881c3dc45.jpg

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DAMNIT! I shouldn't have done it. It's late. But I searched Aliexpress for the metal sealed bearing, just a quick search, not going to dive into the crazy keyword maze of Alibaba, just a quick Aliexpress peek. What do you know, found one right off for the exact same bearing for $6.40 total price including shipping. (I only paid $6.00, which included shipping) Unfortunately, the Aliexpress price is for 10. Duoh 

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Items of note: The first: I have a pretty good collection of bullshit screwdriver bits. Bits that come in cheap, but abundant sets, I have been forced to buy over the years because some fancy pants engineer decided none of the standard or even semi-standard fasteners, would cut it. Nothing I have will give purchase in the slot to remove the Z24i adapter. Ideas?

Also, the grooves in the distributor rod, viewable in attached pic bring concern. Are they present on all Z24i spindles? If not, I am considering swapping rods

Edited by frankendat
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  • 2 weeks later...

I was a little bummed, when my theory that the spindle attachment being the only difference between a Z24 and a Z24i was proven correct. Although I did know where to source the spindle attachment seperate, except for a U-pull salvage yard. Figured take a cordless to drill it out, would have been a long day if it is a pin. But, I played it safe and purchased a Z24i dizzy, a lesson of more than $100. Not completely pissed away, as it is always good to have spares, especially as prices are rising so damn fast.

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