DVince Posted January 22, 2021 Report Share Posted January 22, 2021 Hey everybody, I have a 1979 b210 wagon thats been sitting for several years and I'm looking for tips on what I should do to get going. I will be changing oil, tune up parts, filters, etc. Any other advice would be greatly appreciated! Tia! Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted January 22, 2021 Report Share Posted January 22, 2021 There were no '79 B-210s and only coupes and sedans. If you have a '79 wagon then it must be a 210 also known as a B-310. Look on the sheet metal cowl above and behind the engine on the firewall. You'll find something like WHL B310 SFU stamped into the sheet metal. There will also be an engine tag with B310 on it nearby with A14 or A15 engines. One or both will have a 'car number'. It will be handy to know it's a 210 when ordering parts. The first 210 wagon produced was in July '78 making it a '79 model year. The first wagon was car number 001001 for A14 and A15 engines. and ended 51,980 is A14 and 22,603 is A15. So yours should be in there somewhere. There may even be a tag on the driver's door jam with the build date. If so use this date if needed ordering parts. Does it run? If not, then only bother with the things needed to get it running. Changing the transmission and differential oil, coolant anti freeze, brake fluid is expensive and premature. Once running and deemed worth fixing up then go at it. If not running... I would top up the oil and get running. Then after running when all the crud is loosened up change it out. A filter with every change is an excellent idea. It was running when parked so nothing has changed, so wires and ignition should be good enough just to see how well it runs. If running and you like what you hear.... Now definitely change the oil and filter, fuel filter, new NGK plugs, cap and rotor. Wires only if needed. Set/check the ignition timing. Flush the coolant out of the rad and block and replace with distilled water and name brand antifreeze/coolant. With the engine HOT set the valve lash. With engine running can you drive it safely? Tires ok? Check brake fluid in master cylinder and does the e brake work?? If low/empty check for leaking brake cylinders on the rear or calipers on the front. If ok... take for short spin and assess the brakes. Pull to one side? mushy pedal? generally poor stopping? These need to be looked into Steering.... excessive steering wheel play? pulls to one side? These need to be looked into Transmission or differential noise? These need to be looked into Clutch.... does it slip at all when accelerating? Make noise pedal in or out? These need to be looked into 1 Quote Link to comment
pdp8 Posted May 19, 2021 Report Share Posted May 19, 2021 I was going to chime in but non-unusually Mike has covered everything that needs to be covered. The only thing I *might* say is I've had brakes lock up after a block or so because they will apply but have too much rust/crud to release so either don't go far or pull the wheels, apply the brakes, and make sure they retract normally. After having some soft-lines that looked OK swell up inside to they didn't pass fluid I've started replacing all three soft lines as a matter of principle when rescuing a car that's been sitting. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted May 19, 2021 Report Share Posted May 19, 2021 Every spring I pull the front rotors and wire wheel them smooth of surface rust from sitting. This way they work perfect the first time and it doesn't take a 100 miles of driving to polish them up. I check the rear adjustments but they are always good from the previous summer. Quote Link to comment
DVince Posted April 20, 2022 Author Report Share Posted April 20, 2022 I did get it to fire up but ran poorly. After a compression test #1 showed no compression. #2 was stronger, dont remember exact reading. #3 and #4 were the best being within 10% of each other. Stuck valve or stuck ring came up as possible causes. Any thoughts? Quote Link to comment
bilzbobaggins Posted April 20, 2022 Report Share Posted April 20, 2022 burnt valve/valves, blown head gasket.....some more ideas Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted April 20, 2022 Report Share Posted April 20, 2022 Check the valve lash first. A tight valve will hold it open and no compression. Actual numbers should always be written down somewhere. If it's 0, 56, 90 and 90 I throw it away or full rebuild. If 0, 150, 170, 170 then look for the cause of the low number 1. Quote Link to comment
bilzbobaggins Posted April 20, 2022 Report Share Posted April 20, 2022 And if you should decide to sell it, I am interested and fairly close. lol Quote Link to comment
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