L28 heater hose delete?

[whisperer]

Building a ZX race only car. Pulling tons of stuff off including heater from dash. The right side of the engine has a heater return hose running from front to back and another block fitting feeding the heater hose to dash. If I pull all these hoses and plug/cap these fittings am I going to block a necessary cooling return? 

[]2eDeYe]

The best way to deal with the heater hoses is to just connect them, bypassing the heater system. 

[datzenmike]

Steve !! This is not what happens when the heater is turned off. Then it is, flow is stopped too. If you join them without blocking the flow you are sending HOT water right back into the engine at the lower rad hose and less flow into the rad. This is water not cooled by the rad or the heater and just makes more work for the cooling system. I've done this in the winter, no problem. Sure it will work but this gets increasingly worse as the weather warms or you're climbing a very steep long hill. There is a good chance of over heating. 

[whisperer]

Thanks for the replies guys. So if I just plug all 3 I’ll be ok? There is the heater hose coming out of the back of the water pump and running to one of the fitting on the rear side of the block. Then there is the other fitting a few inches away from that one. 

  Basically I’m trying not to create a hot spot if it returns water from the back of the block through these hoses.

[datzenmike]

There should be two hoses to/from the heater. These must be sealed up.

 

This... Just close off the heater hoses, leave the rest.

 

 

Below is a method of removing over heated coolant or another way of looking at it, force more coolant around each cylinder and out holes drilled on the manifold side. The rear cylinders tend to run hotter as the water is trapped back there having the long full length of the  to traverse to get out the thermostat housing. With this you won't need that pressure valve in the diagram.

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[whisperer]

Mmm, so the drill/tap and new water return manifold is super cool but probably overkill for what I’m doing. From your diagram I can see how the flow needs to go now. Thanks for that, cleared it all up I think... 

  I’m thinking I need to run a 5/8” hose from the head fitting straight back to the water inlet and cap the leg that normally goes to the heater core. Also like you said just make the pressure valve go away along with the other side of that T that went to the other side of the heater core. So no plugging the head fitting, just run the one hose back and I’m good. Sound right?