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Help with steering and engine on my 73


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Hey guys. Rather than flooding the section with a bunch of separate posts I thought I'd make a single one with a handful of questions in it. I have a few small issues and I have been googling and chiltoning but I'm turning to this brilliant community for extra input. Thanks in advance for your advice and patience. I'm mechanically inclined but this is my first real project that isn't just bolt-on tuning or general maintenance on a modern car. 

 

1. My steering has quite a bit of play. It turns fine from lock to lock with no binding but there is probably 10-15 degrees of slop before I get engagement. Is this a common thing? Are there usual suspects to check? If not I'm guessing I tag team it with a friend and get him to work the wheel while I try to determine if it's play in the linkages or just wear in the steering box, no? 

 

2. My steering wheel is like 90 degrees off when the wheels are straight. Seems too extreme to be part of the steering play above so I'm guessing it was pulled previously and then just didn't get put it back on straight? I am pulling the wheel soon anyway to replace the hazard switch but since I'm already asking questions... 

 

3. The L16 has a weber 32/36 on it and a brand new ignition system. The previous owner admitted timing was ballparked but it fires right up cold without a single crank and runs well. However, I've had the revs take off on me twice. I was coming off the gas but she started revving up and was pulling against braking. I popped the trans into neutral and the revs raced up then it caught itself and settled back to idle with no intervention from me. Put it back into gear and it drove fine. What could be causing this? I have the 3 speed auto if that makes any difference. 

 

Thanks! 

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Put '73 620 in your profile. Next time you ask a question you won't get so many back. The 620 had 3 engines and 4 transmissions, different ignition systems, some had disc brakes, different alternators.... on an on...

 

 

 

1/ There are 6 steering ball joints, an idler arm and a steering box. In addition there are wheel bearings in the hub. If all these have some wear that adds up to only 1/4" the steering box has a 19 to 1 ratio so 1" inch becomes 4 3/4" of steering wheel slop. Raise both wheels off the ground and have someone rock the steering wheel back and forth through the loose section while you examine all the ball joints and specially the idles arm. Ball joints should transmit motion through themselves. If there is any looseness they need to be replaced. Grab and pull down hard on the idler arm. It should swing side to side only. Grab each wheel at 9 and 3 and pull push, then 12 and 6 pull out and in. Any play or looseness? Have the wheel bearing pre load checked and set. There are adjustments to remove play in the steering box.

 

2/ Once you get your steering squared away you can steer the truck straight ahead, remove the steering wheel from the column spline and turn it to the straight ahead position and reinstall it. The fact that it's that far off means someone had it off already.

 

3/ The throttle cable probably stuck. It may be worn and frayed and caught inside the plastic sheath.  Possibly the weber stuck if the throttle shaft is worn. With the engine off push the gas pedal to the floor and release slowly. Did it stick?  

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im dealing with a broken throttle cable on my '70 521 at the moment. looks like previous owner had to pipe clamp a cable fastener to the pedal.     

does anyone happen to have a photo of the cable, where the cable and the pedal meet? I wondered if the standard "big box store" replacement cable/assemble is correct.  

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 The 521 and the 620 do use a cable and the same engine but the 521 cable screws onto the firewall somewhat like the speedometer cable into the dash gauge, while the 620 has two screws.  Make sure you specify what it's for.

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