Jump to content

Negative Ghostrider

  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

14 Neutral

About Negative Ghostrider

  • Rank
    Advanced Member
  • Birthday January 7

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Seattle, WA
  • Cars
    1973 620 3sp Automatic
  • Interests
    Cars, cartoons, kickboxing, bourbon, craft beer, electronics
  • Occupation
    Merchant Mariner

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Entry 11 - Game Over. Well, I fucked myself. I was reindexing the cam sprocket and the shitty chain guide tensioner I got from Z Car Depot shifted and I lost tension. Thing was cut from pastic and I think it's too thin. It slid forward against the front of the block and the chain popped out behind it. I just can't fucking win. Now I have to figure out how I'm going to get a lift and pull the fucking engine. At least I can replace the head gasket and whatnot. Last thing in the word that I needed.
  2. Thanks guys. Very helpful. I will have a (authentic) auto choke weber on by the time this happens. Does that change the scenario? Crashtd420 - I got the 240 vbelt. I think I read is half an inch longer than the stock 620 belt or something, and should fit just right.
  3. Well I haven't had time to rebuild mine. I have ordered one of the drop in replacement valves that Joe Yocom in the Facebook 620 Owners group (Goemon on here, I think) is selling. It's a Renault valve with a custom pivot arm. Looks very promising. I'll post an update once I have a chance to drop it in.
  4. I ordered a 240sx 60 amp alternator and v belt for the L16 to support future stereo and A/C aspirations, and to help address the dimming under normal loads. This is supposed to be a drop in replacement but I know the OEM alternator has an external regulator and this one is internal. Is there anything special I should know about removing the regulator and wiring in the new alt or is it basically just point to point with lug connections? I'm guessing the wiring should upgraded. Would 8AWG be adequate or should I go bigger? Are there any fuse related things I should consider? Thanks!
  5. If all of your other external lights are working (brakes, corners, etc.) check your hazard switch. They are prone to failure and will prevent your turn signals from working. It could just be dirty contacts at the connections or it could be something internal. Pull the knob and see if the hazards work. If they don't you probably have a faulty hazard switch or bad connection. If they do, push it back in and try the turn signals again. If they still don't work try gently wiggling or twisting the knob to see if you get intermittent function.
  6. Thanks man. I'm kind of proud of both of those. I have just been resting the phone on the ashtray and it seems to sit there ok but it's been mostly very short drives and I didn't hit any serious bumps. The spring holder should definitely keep it secure on rough road.
  7. Entry 10 - Channeling my inner MacGyver. So here is my PCV fix. One chunk 1" heater hose, 1 chunk 5/8" heater hose, 3 copper 90 degree plumbing fittings (2 regular 90, 1 Street 90), self fusing rescue tape, and an assortment of clamps. I only used about an inch and a half of 1 inch to mate the first copper fitting to the breather, as their diameters were identical and the 3/4" flare fit perfectly inside the 1" hose. From there the 5/8 hose fit perfectly inside the other flared end of the copper fitting. Then I made a 180 with the other fitting and the street fitting (only flared on one end) and then continued to the PCV. Once it was all test fitted I wrapped it in 2 layers of the rescue tape. It's ghetto fabulous, I know. But the total cost was less than 20 bucks. I could have used fancier hoses and fittings but this way actually maintains a minimum of a 5/8" ID from end to end, whereas if I had used barbed fittings there would have been several bottlenecks. This will do for now. After that I took a couple of bolts and part of one of those decorative plate holders and I made a cel phone mount in the ash tray. Photo of my case, since I obviously needed the phone to take the picture. The spring and clamp hold the phone securely against the front lip of the tray. When I'm not using it the assembly drops inside and goes away.
  8. Entry 10 - Small victories. The OEM spiral hose for the PCV/breather is impossible to get anymore but I picked up some 5/8" and 1" heater hose and a few fittings and clamps. I'm pretty sure I can cobble together a connection. If it works I will post pics and a writeup after. I tried pulling out the through bolt for the starter to see what was going on with it. It wouldn't come all the way out because the fuel pump was in the way. For whatever reason when I pushed it back in it threaded this time. No idea why but I will chalk it up in the W category. I tidied up some wiring under the hood, pulled out all the old hoses for the windshield washer and put clamps on all the rogue hoses.
  9. Are you talking about trying to relocate my index finger to my pinky?
  10. Probably not. I'll do that, thanks. Maybe. It might just look that way. There are a lot of protective sleeves on the terminal connections under the hood. It had certainly been a game of "Is my issue that it's actually not connected under that sleeve" as I've been hunting electrical gremlins. Haha.
  11. Thanks everyone. I had made a tensioner shim but I'm not sure I trust it. The Chilton's book only said 9 tall and 1.5 wide but nothing about how to taper it. I just ordered one of the blue plastic ones from Z car Depot. Should be here soon. I'll see about getting the vent pipe connected to the PCV. I can probably find a host that fits the PCV flare and then a double male reducer fitting to mate the other end to the breather. I have to go to the hardware store today anyway. This is probably a contributing factor to it running so rich, yeah?
  12. I noticed this segment in the middle of the cam with 2 squared lobes on it. Couldn't I put a wrench on that and rotate the cam back until the handle of the wrench wedges against the side of the head, then crack the bolt free with a breaker bar? Then use the wrench to rotate the cam back to TDC? The cam is still captured by the index pins with the bolt loose and everything should still move in unison, right? That way I wouldn't have to worry about bending a valve by stuffing things into the chamber.
  13. OK. So I've got lower compression since I've got the w53 head. I was hoping to find flat tops in there for the performance boost, but oh well. Right. I watched a couple videos of people adjusting L series. In one of them the guy had some stretch and had to re-index. The increments between the 3 positions seemed pretty small, like a fraction of the ^ mark. Mine's got a fair gap. I wonder if I'm off a tooth or something. I've heard about this rope technique. Maybe I'll give it a shot. All the emissions stuff has been deleted. Someone elsewhere said that blue hose should be connected to the PCV which is that flared fitting in the foreground? I looked at a cutaway diagram for that starter and I don't see a free nut on the back side so I'm guessing it was captured. At the time I tried to see if it would just thread back in and it just spun. I didn't pull it all the way out so see if the threads were stripped or sheared or anything. I'll have to revisit that. Thanks man. I feel like I'm in over my head a little more each time I dig into it, honestly. LOL
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.