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Negative Ghostrider

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About Negative Ghostrider

  • Rank
    Advanced Member
  • Birthday January 7

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Seattle, WA
  • Cars
    1973 620 3sp Automatic
  • Interests
    Cars, cartoons, kickboxing, bourbon, craft beer, electronics
  • Occupation
    Merchant Mariner

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  1. Ok. Totally figured out the lights. I didn't realize the red and green leads shared a ground with the rest of the list assembly and so I was accidentally creating a ground loop by attaching one of them to the black lead on the front signal. The red lead goes to the green/red constant wire and the green lead goes to the green/black switched wire. No relays or anythind needed. I was overthinking it.
  2. Thanks, man. I didn't know I needed it until days after I saw you. There wasn't one when I tore down the engine so it was a total surprise when I saw it in the rebuild book. I have a new one arriving any day now.
  3. OK. Good call. Looks like I have a little time on my hands before it runs again so I don't have much excuse to not do it right. You're right, I don't want to have to deal with it on the side of the road at night in the rain or something.
  4. I got a couple of 5 pin relays to see if I could work around the issue. When I get things wired so the white halos work as running lights and the ambers blink when I use the turn signals the signals only work if the lights are on. If I rewire them so the ambers blink when the headlights are off the white halos don't come on when I turn on the lights. Not sure what's going on. I'll have to mess with them some more tomorrow. Someone on Facebook said that the red and green flying leads for the halos share a ground with the rest of the light so maybe I don't need to use the ground from the front signal. Maybe I've been over thinking it. The lights came with zero documentation.
  5. Good to know. I kept the stock one and the slightly longer 240sx one that was supposed to work but didn't. I am going to pick up some spares for sure in case the slight pulley offset thing I mentioned before becomes an issue and I end up needing a belt on short notice.
  6. Entry 27 - 98%. The engine is as together as its going to get for now. Nothing left but the fuel pump insulator and the oil pan. The pan is probably going to have to wait 2 weeks before I can get help. Ugh. Got the fuel tank back in. That was no fun. Thank goodness I don't have giant hands. Some of those hoses were a serious pain to get clamped. Also did the new window seals. It will be nice to not have water in the floorboards after rain. They were eBay ones from Thailand so fitment was only so-so and I had to reposition every bracket and trim the rubbers but they're better than the nothing that I had in there before. I messed around with the wiring for the headlights but couldn't find a solution for getting the white halos to work. Oh well. Things are pretty tight around the new alternator, not gonna lie. Only about an inch to the lower radiator hose at the bend, about 1/32 of an inch from the top of the alternator body to where the hose meets the block, and less than an inch from the head of bolt in the alt fan to the fan shroud. It all fits though. I needed a 3" longer belt. If I went longer I could get more clearance at the top but things would get dangerously close between the alt blades and the bend in the lower hose.
  7. Entry 26 - Let there be light... And other stuff. Decided to put in the LEDs. Polished up the trim rings while I was at it. I got the amber halos working with the turn signals but I'm not sure about how to get the white halo mode working as the running lights. There are 2 leads from the light assembly and I figured out they shine amber with normal polarity and white on reverse. I'm thinking if I do a shared lead from the 2 switched positives on the harness I can get them to switch. I still need to get a longer belt for the alternator but I made some jumpers for the harness to bypass the voltage regulator, rather than cutting up the regulator, just in case I ever need to go back to stock. My wheels showed up yesterday afternoon and I had just enough time to run them to my man Nick at Les Schwab to get the tires thrown on. Fitment is perfectly flush with a nice square shoulder, which is what I wanted. It will look a lot better after the 3" drop. Just waiting to get the gas tank back on before I slam it. 225/50 on 15x8 -6. Tomorrow, weather permitting, get the belt on the pulleys, get the radiator back in and the fuel tank on. From there I'm at a standstill until I get the fuel pump insulator and help with the oil pan.
  8. In the interest of experimentation I made jumpers to make sure everything works before I cut up my regulator. I have a matching harness on the way that I can use for a more permanent solution if everything checks out. Regarding the choke heater relay, the truck already had the "weber" with the auto choke on it and a number of wires were already disconnected. Solid blue and both of the Blue with white are off, and the White with blue had been extended out to the auto choke. Didn't have any battery draining issues previously. Am I good to go with this configuration? Thanks!
  9. Entry 27 - So close! Heavy rain kept me from working on the gas tank so continued on the engine. I got all the hoses and wires back in their respective places. It's starting to look like an engine again. The wire for the coolant temp probe was breaking at the connector so I soldered a new one on, tested and heat wrapped and heat shrink sleeved it. After some fiddling around I think I have fitment figured out for the 60A alternator upgrade. I flipped the upper bracket and that seemed to do it. The alt pulley is about 1/8" further forward than the crank and fan pulleys. I am going to send it for now but if I see uneven belt wear I will shave the lower bracket get everything in perfect alignment. I got larger cables but the lug connectors on them are too big so I need to find some correct sized ones and a slightly longer v belt. Hopefully tomorrow I get the alternator finished, and the fan and radiator back in. It's supposed to rain some more so the gas tank will likely have to wait a while.
  10. You mean between the pulley and the blades? No. I did not. It doesn't look like there's even 1/8 gap between them. I feel like it's probably going to be ok. The truck isn't going to be a daily. If I see excessive or uneven wear on the belt after a short time I will just shave down the bracket a hair.
  11. I had to flip the bracket to make it fit. When it was normal orientation it was hitting the top of the alternator body before the hole and the slot lined up. Works great flipped over. I can put a couple bends in it if I need to fit it to the front I guess. It seems solid as is though.
  12. I have the alternator fitted. It's a model R111307A from autozone, which is a 60A that fits various Nissans including the 720 and I think a 200 or 240. I ordered it based on a thread in here that I read but can't seem to find now which said it was drop-in with a v belt from the associated car. Anyhow, I was able to get it in and sitting pretty well by just flipping the upper bracket over. The belt is just a hair too short or else the top of the alt will rub on the radiator hose. That's easily remedied. The more pressing concern is that the pulley sits about 1/8" further forward than the crank and cam pulleys. Is that enough to cause an issue?
  13. OK. So I am cutting the end off the regulator (red) doing the 2 splices then connecting it back to the harness (yellow), yes? I think I got confused because your plug looked different.
  14. Hey Mike. Just wanting to make sure I don't F this up. Your pic is just of the male end of the plug and only has the 4 wires in question but I'm assuming I still need the yellow and white/blue wires connected though. Otherwise that male plug is just 2 jumpers plugged into a dead regulator. Thanks.
  15. Episode 26 - From feeling stud-ly to stupid, and needing a little space(er). Buckle up while I admit to a lot of newbie nonsense and bonehead near-catastrophes. Yesterday I dove into reassembling the engine, finally. I got the head back on and the timing gear in, after some hassles. The cam sprocket in OSK timing kit I ordered didn't have timing notches on the back. After much deliberating and help from the good folks here I decided to re-use the old one, since it was in good shape. I had the front cover on and off like 4 times. Dry fit, gasket fit, "wait, do I seal both sides?" *internet* "Yes, I seal both sides.", remove, seal the other side, replace, "Oh wait, the book said to add sealant in the top and bottom corners, too", remove add sealant, replace, figure out bolts, "Oh, I forgot to replace the crank seal", remove, replace crank seal, reinstall, tighten. I got it right, eventually. Today I picked up where I left off and began putting the accessories on. That part was pretty straightforward. Except none of my 3 books had any information on the oval cover above the water pump. It had a strange, extra thick silver gasket. No idea if it needed to be sealed or what the torque specs are. I just ran them down to the same specs that the similar sized bolts called for, for now. Oh, that reminds me, both of my torque wrenches are way out of spec. Time to upgrade from the harbor freight units. Good thing I have a digital adapter that was brand new. I used it to reference my click wrenches and discovered the massive discrepancies. At least I did that before I started torquing things. So anyhow, I had to skip putting on the oil pan because when it came off it took 2 of us and a 60v industrial impact wrench to get the crossmember under it off and back on. Guess that will wait for the weekend. It will be easier to get the gas tank back in with extra hands as well. I put in new studs for the manifolds, since most of the old ones came out of the block during disassembly. There were no torque specs in any of my books for installing new studs so again I turned to the forums for advice, and got it. Thanks, guys. However, I put the studs in without realizing that there were 2 different sizes of spaces between the threads. So I got the exhaust manifold on and went to put in the shared spacers for the intake/exhaust and realized that I had a mix of long and short studs. I corrected the issue and started running torquing down the bolts. Well, I accidentally started using the specs for the long pipe instead of the manifold, which is like 3x higher. I thankfully noticed that things seemed too tight and the torque wasn't building normally and backed off before I stripped the threads in the block. Crisis was averted. Thankfully I had extra new studs and I switched the stretched ones out. Getting the hard to reach shared nuts torqued was a pain and took forever. I hope I didn't damage the gasket when I over tightened the exhaust manifold the first time. I don't want to have to do that again. I had to skip installing the fuel pump because I discovered that I didn't have (and apparently never had) the insulating spacer. So that is on order but won't be here for a few days. Tomorrow I will get the distributor in and all the hoses hooked up, and hopefully the radiator, fan, and alternator in.
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