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Negative Ghostrider

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About Negative Ghostrider

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    Advanced Member
  • Birthday January 7

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Seattle, WA
  • Cars
    1973 620 3sp Automatic
  • Interests
    Cars, cartoons, kickboxing, bourbon, craft beer, electronics
  • Occupation
    Merchant Mariner

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  1. The fuel issues continue to plague me. I went to fire it up after it sat for a couple weeks and got the same issue as before. No visible fuel in the separator, and no amount of cranking seems to want to draw enough to fill the separator more than half way. As soon as I stop cranking it drains back. I used to be able to take off the valve cover and if I manually cranked the pump arm quickly I could get fuel to fill the separator and then it would hold and the carb would fill and she would run well. I tried that again and this time I couldn't get the level to fill and hold. I replaced all the hoses and clamps weeks ago, and I made sure everything under the hood was tight the last time this happened. I haven't double checked all the clamps on the soft lines at the tank because it's such a pain to get to most of them. Could it be the pump? The heat spacer was missing when I got it so I'm wondering if maybe the diaphragm got damaged or something from it cycling past its intended limit. I can throw a new aftermarket pump and separator on it for like $40 I guess, but if it could be something else I'd rather not spend that money. Or could it be the lines? I think I used 1/4" hose to replace all the lines. I saw in an old thread something about the OEM lines maybe being 6mm. Could that fraction of a mm difference lead to air leaks? I don't have any signs of fuel leaking on the ground or anything. Thanks, as usual.
  2. Entry 35 - Cucumber town! It looks like I got the cooling issue fixed. I ran it around the last couple days, then flushed it a couple times and replaced the thermostat. The water never quite ran clear but it wasn't as filthy as I was expecting. A little brownish and murky but not "tap water for 15 years in the rust belt" brown or anything. I would have let it more but I used up all 4 jugs of distilled water I had. I'll do it again next summer. I let it idle for about a half hour, with the heater off the last 10 minutes and the needle never went past halfway. Looks like I'm good to go. I replaced all the soft fuel lines under the hood and made sure the clamps were secure. The filter and all the lines drained out obviously in the process. When I went to start it it pulled fuel and turned over after a couple cranks. Hopefully that's the end of the fueling nonsense. We'll see after it sits for a few days. I checked the torque on the nut for the fuel pump lobe and it's good to go so hopefully there's no issue with the pump and it was just a leak down problem with the old lines. I put yellow Lamin-X on the low beams and ran a new fog light harness for them. Much brighter now. They will make great fogs. I should upgrade the LED assemblies to modern relays as well. I'm a little surprised the engine notably loads when I turn on the fogs. I was hoping the new alternator would prevent that. Nothing in the rest of the system dims though so that's good. 3 things down, 20 to go.
  3. I replaced all the hoses and clamps at the tank but the ones in the engine bay are original. I should probably replace all of them to be safe.
  4. That eccentric lobe is just held in place against the retaining washer by pressure from the sprocket bolt, right? There's no key or pin or anything? I don't recall there being one but this engine was already missing multiple parts when I tore it down so it wouldn't surprise me if other things were also gone. None of my books reference anything like that but I thought I should ask. Maybe I should double check the torque on the bolt.
  5. Entry 34 - Trying to keep my cool The weather finally cooperated with me today so I started trying to resolve my cooling issues. I drained the radiator and flushed the system with some distilled water. There was definitely some grainy rusty crap in the bottom of the catch tray. Then I pulled the thermostat and filled the system with a bottle of Thermocare treatment and distilled water and took her out for a few laps. I did some loops around the block, then ventured progressively further out. In total I probably did about 45 minutes of stop and go driving with no issues. The heater blew warm but the temp gauge never really got past the cold mark. All good signs. Maybe it was the thermostat after all. Tomorrow I'll take it out a while again, then drain and flush the system, put the new thermostat in, refill, and cross my fingers. I did find a little coolant in the footwells when I first got in it today. It looks like it was dripping from the actual heater core and not any of the hoses to the cock. That's not great. I'm hoping it was just pressure from when I came close to overcooking the system last week. There were no signs of leakage during any of my driving today but I'll keep close tabs on that for sure. She ran well, for the most part. I may have to tweak my timing a bit more. It flirts with stalling when I come to a stop but holds on for dear life. I opened up the idle screw on the carb a bit and it didn't seem to make a difference. Throttle response is great when I'm moving. Open to suggestions from you all, though. My last real lingering issue seems to be with the fuel system. When I went to start it after it had sat for a week it wouldn't catch. When I popped the hood I saw the fuel filter was empty again. This happed just before I tore down the engine. No amount of cranking seems to draw enough fuel up into the filter to get to the top line. If I hit the carb with some started fluid and get it to stumble over for a hot second it will have drawn gas about halfway up the filter bowl but as soon as I stop cranking it drains back out within a few seconds. Removing the valve cover and manually pumping the arm gets it to fill pretty quickly, and it seems to stay put for a while after that - long enough for me to go into the grocery store, or jack the truck up to check the oil pan bolts at least. Could I have a leaky line or a bad check valve somewhere? Could my pump be going out? It was missing the insulator gasket when I got it, which I read could damage the pump because the lobe on the cam end pushes the lever past its intended range. Gracious for any insights.
  6. I didn't notice any scale or anything inside when I removed it or when I was filling it. Looked very clean, actually. Same with the hoses. There were definitely some signs of rust in the passages on the head and block, but no evidence of heavy buildup or blockage though. I was planning on doing a full system flush soon anyway but under the circumstances I obviously need to resolve the issue at hand first. Still, it worked fine before. That's why I'm confused. The rad was off for months so maybe some crap dried out and crusted up in there while it sat. Thermostat and gasket are like 15 bucks so I may as well just toss that in, and I'll soak the rad with CLR if that doesn't do the trick. Jagman says he's flushing the system with CLR as well. Do you recommend that over some off the shelf radiator flush stuff? Thanks.
  7. For sure. The help on here has been invaluable countless times so far. So you're just running water and CLR right now? Or did you add it to your coolant?
  8. Thanks Mike. I'm not arguing with your logic, I'm just being skeptical because the thermostat worked fine when I removed it, and all the coolant lines are hot, including the one from the thermostat to the radiator. That's why I thought the core might be air bound. I'll throw a new thermostat at it next week.
  9. Head gasket was replaced. That's where all this started. There were no overheating issues previously but it smoked. I drove the truck a few long stretches after I got it but it was smoking and timing looked to be off a link. When I tore it down it was obvious the previous gasket Jon wasn't done right. There was an indexing dowel missing, the fuel pump insulator was missing and there was some obvious leaking. I'm not sure about the mileage. It's at least a 4 owner truck. The Odo reads about 85k but I don't know how many revolutions that includes. Mike helped me figure out the head is not original. It's a W53, so it's been taken apart at least once. Nothing was warped by my eye with a straight edge when I put it back together.
  10. Well something is going on. By the numbers I can't add much more and it's definitely running hot but the rad is cool to the touch.
  11. Entry 33 - ... Aaand liftoff! Double checked all the manifold studs and they seemed fine. Tightened up the oil pan a bit because there were a couple small leaks. That cork gasket really compressed so I took all the bolts back to torque spec. Jacked up the front end and ran it again to make sure I get the air out of the cooling system. There was a little smoke but it disappeared quickly so it much have just been burn off yesterday. It's done now and the smell is pretty much gone. I took it for a few spins around the block and it seems to be running very well. I'm pleased. Smooth with good power. No issues when I floor it or come to a stop. It was definitely smoking white, with possibly some blue when I first fired it up but that's gone now. Must have been old crap and moisture in the system burning off. No visible exhaust now. I'm sure I have some fine tuning to do on the timing and carb and I must still have some air in the radiator because the temp gauge started to redline. All the lines are hot and the heater blows hot but the radiator is cool so I guess it needs to burp. I'm working through these issues in a different thread. I'm pretty happy with the ride quality after the drop. It's not as jarring as I was expecting. The shocks and all the bushings are ancient and best to hell so I'm going to be refreshing those soon. Brakes seem to be working acceptably. I definitely need to work on that dead spot in the steering though. Annoying as hell. It's going to sit for a week before I can touch it again but I am ecstatic with where it's at.
  12. Entry 32 - Houston, we have ignition. Fed it all the fluids, tightened up a couple leaks, primed, turned the key and... Kicked over on the first crank! A couple tweaks on timing and the carb and its running smooth, though idling a little high. There was some white and blue smoke but I'm hoping that's just old moisture and crap in the system from before. There was smoke on the manifold side of the engine. Not sure if it's all burnoff or if the studs aren't quite tight. I'll double check them later. I had an unfortunate pet emergency though so I had to leave it there. I'm just excited that it runs.
  13. Well I checked the nuts. They were all around spec. 12 lbs. It was hard to tell because you need wobble fittings and extensions to get to some of them, especially the lower ones with the curved washers that hold the intake and exhaust together. If they are too tight its not by much. Things smell a little exhaust-y but I think it's just from the tailpipe. I had the door open and the breeze was blowing that way. The smoke was indeed just burn off. It's done now and the smell is pretty much gone. I took it for a few spins around the block it seems to be running very well. I'm pleased. Smooth with good power. No issues when I floor it or come to a stop. It was definitely smoking white, with possibly some blue when I first fired it up but that's gone now. Must have been old crap and moisture in the system burning off. No visible exhaust now. My only lingering issues are: I guess need to tune the timing and the carb a bit, I think. It seems like it's idling high but I don't have a tach or a timing gun. Once it's warm if I turn the main idle screw it gets a little rough for quite a while before I get near the stumble point. Advice? I hope it's not this crap knockoff weber. I think the choke is working ok because it fired up fine cold after I pumped the pedal before ignition, and it kicked down ok when I tapped it after some warm up. But it still idles high after kick down. It's running hot. I jacked up the front end and ran it again until the temp gauge was at midline before it drove it, so I'm hoping it burped out any air. I checked and all the coolant lines large and small were very warm and the heater was blowing hot air. So it seems like it's circulating fine. I have no leaks. I'm running 50/50 premix. It took the 6 quarts with no issues. The radiator itself is not hot, though. Could it be that I still have air in the system? Maybe I didn't jack it up high enough or run it long enough.
  14. Thanks guys. I will take the cap off and lift the front a bit when I fire it up again after I retighten the manifold bolts.
  15. Well she fired right up and seems to run pretty smoothly. I have some smoke on the manifold side so I'm guessing I need to re-torque all the exhaust manifold studs (ugh). Other than that I think I'm in business. No charge light so I'm guessing the alternator is working right as well. Thanks for everything!
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