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Negative Ghostrider

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Everything posted by Negative Ghostrider

  1. The fuel issues continue to plague me. I went to fire it up after it sat for a couple weeks and got the same issue as before. No visible fuel in the separator, and no amount of cranking seems to want to draw enough to fill the separator more than half way. As soon as I stop cranking it drains back. I used to be able to take off the valve cover and if I manually cranked the pump arm quickly I could get fuel to fill the separator and then it would hold and the carb would fill and she would run well. I tried that again and this time I couldn't get the level to fill and hold. I replaced all the ho
  2. Entry 35 - Cucumber town! It looks like I got the cooling issue fixed. I ran it around the last couple days, then flushed it a couple times and replaced the thermostat. The water never quite ran clear but it wasn't as filthy as I was expecting. A little brownish and murky but not "tap water for 15 years in the rust belt" brown or anything. I would have let it more but I used up all 4 jugs of distilled water I had. I'll do it again next summer. I let it idle for about a half hour, with the heater off the last 10 minutes and the needle never went past halfway. Looks like I'm good to
  3. I replaced all the hoses and clamps at the tank but the ones in the engine bay are original. I should probably replace all of them to be safe.
  4. That eccentric lobe is just held in place against the retaining washer by pressure from the sprocket bolt, right? There's no key or pin or anything? I don't recall there being one but this engine was already missing multiple parts when I tore it down so it wouldn't surprise me if other things were also gone. None of my books reference anything like that but I thought I should ask. Maybe I should double check the torque on the bolt.
  5. Entry 34 - Trying to keep my cool The weather finally cooperated with me today so I started trying to resolve my cooling issues. I drained the radiator and flushed the system with some distilled water. There was definitely some grainy rusty crap in the bottom of the catch tray. Then I pulled the thermostat and filled the system with a bottle of Thermocare treatment and distilled water and took her out for a few laps. I did some loops around the block, then ventured progressively further out. In total I probably did about 45 minutes of stop and go driving with no issues. The heater
  6. I didn't notice any scale or anything inside when I removed it or when I was filling it. Looked very clean, actually. Same with the hoses. There were definitely some signs of rust in the passages on the head and block, but no evidence of heavy buildup or blockage though. I was planning on doing a full system flush soon anyway but under the circumstances I obviously need to resolve the issue at hand first. Still, it worked fine before. That's why I'm confused. The rad was off for months so maybe some crap dried out and crusted up in there while it sat. Thermostat and gasket are like 15 bucks so
  7. For sure. The help on here has been invaluable countless times so far. So you're just running water and CLR right now? Or did you add it to your coolant?
  8. Thanks Mike. I'm not arguing with your logic, I'm just being skeptical because the thermostat worked fine when I removed it, and all the coolant lines are hot, including the one from the thermostat to the radiator. That's why I thought the core might be air bound. I'll throw a new thermostat at it next week.
  9. Head gasket was replaced. That's where all this started. There were no overheating issues previously but it smoked. I drove the truck a few long stretches after I got it but it was smoking and timing looked to be off a link. When I tore it down it was obvious the previous gasket Jon wasn't done right. There was an indexing dowel missing, the fuel pump insulator was missing and there was some obvious leaking. I'm not sure about the mileage. It's at least a 4 owner truck. The Odo reads about 85k but I don't know how many revolutions that includes. Mike helped me figure out the head is not origin
  10. Well something is going on. By the numbers I can't add much more and it's definitely running hot but the rad is cool to the touch.
  11. Entry 33 - ... Aaand liftoff! Double checked all the manifold studs and they seemed fine. Tightened up the oil pan a bit because there were a couple small leaks. That cork gasket really compressed so I took all the bolts back to torque spec. Jacked up the front end and ran it again to make sure I get the air out of the cooling system. There was a little smoke but it disappeared quickly so it much have just been burn off yesterday. It's done now and the smell is pretty much gone. I took it for a few spins around the block and it seems to be running very well. I'm please
  12. Entry 32 - Houston, we have ignition. Fed it all the fluids, tightened up a couple leaks, primed, turned the key and... Kicked over on the first crank! A couple tweaks on timing and the carb and its running smooth, though idling a little high. There was some white and blue smoke but I'm hoping that's just old moisture and crap in the system from before. There was smoke on the manifold side of the engine. Not sure if it's all burnoff or if the studs aren't quite tight. I'll double check them later. I had an unfortunate pet emergency though so
  13. Well I checked the nuts. They were all around spec. 12 lbs. It was hard to tell because you need wobble fittings and extensions to get to some of them, especially the lower ones with the curved washers that hold the intake and exhaust together. If they are too tight its not by much. Things smell a little exhaust-y but I think it's just from the tailpipe. I had the door open and the breeze was blowing that way. The smoke was indeed just burn off. It's done now and the smell is pretty much gone. I took it for a few spins around the block it seems to be running very well. I'm pleased
  14. Thanks guys. I will take the cap off and lift the front a bit when I fire it up again after I retighten the manifold bolts.
  15. Well she fired right up and seems to run pretty smoothly. I have some smoke on the manifold side so I'm guessing I need to re-torque all the exhaust manifold studs (ugh). Other than that I think I'm in business. No charge light so I'm guessing the alternator is working right as well. Thanks for everything!
  16. Thanks as always Mike. This sounds like way less of a hassle. I have 50/50 coolant mix and Chevron Delo (the place by my house didn't have enough Rotella). I used grease on the recommended surfaces like the eccentric cam for the fuel pump and the front seal but there was no mention in the book of greasing any bearings so I will probably give it a few juice free cranks just to be safe.
  17. I replaced the head gasket and timing gear on my L16 and it's time for the first start. I am honestly nervous as hell. This is my first "rebuild" and I'm hoping it doesn't all go to hell on me after many stressful hours, so I'm looking for advice on the first startup and break in. I'm guessing it's not as involved or critical as a full rebuild, but still. So let me see if I have this all right. Fill oil, put a little oil on the timing chain, cam and valve train Pull the main plug on the distributor and crank for about 15 seconds to prime. Look for the oil
  18. Entry 31 - Shorty got low low low low low low low low. I wasn't ready to start up the engine. I should be but... If I never start it I can just assume I put it together is right and it will run fine, right? 😉 Anyhow, I dropped the truck instead. Finally. The torsion bars went pretty easily. The drop blocks were a little more involved than I expected but still easy overall. I'm super pleased with the height overall. It's not a scraper but the gap has closed up nicely. The wheel and tire combo looks even better now. I realized how old and worn the shocks are. New ones w
  19. Entry 30 - the finish line in the middle of the race. After 5 maddening hours I finally got the engine reassembly finished. The fuel pump took me all of 5 minutes - gaskets and insulator in, tighten nuts, done. The oil pan, however... I wrestled with the crossmember again. The bolts just don't want to come out. I messed with the tensioning rods because the crossmember seemed to be a bit twisted. It helped but not enough. I finally got the bolts out using a deadblow hammer and a smaller bolt. I knew reassembly would be nightmarish (and I was right). I have already put
  20. Entry 29 - Buckle up, buttercup! I got the seat belts sorted out. The folks at Wesco Performance were attentive and sympathetic but in the end not very helpful. I couldn't return or exchange the belts once I installed them, even though I had to install them to discover all the mounting issues. The agent helping me said she had been selling belts for 17 years and had never seen issues like mine. I told her to make a mental note about 73-78 Datsuns for the future. LOL. Anyhow, I ended up using a bunch of longer bolts, spacers, and modifications to make things fit. Everything should
  21. Entry 28 - Let there be lights! Ok. Totally figured out the lights. I didn't realize the red and green leads shared a ground with the rest of the list assembly and so I was accidentally creating a ground loop by attaching one of them to the black lead on the front signal. The red lead goes to the green/red constant wire and the green lead goes to the green/black switched wire. No relays or anythind needed. I was overthinking it.
  22. Thanks, man. I didn't know I needed it until days after I saw you. There wasn't one when I tore down the engine so it was a total surprise when I saw it in the rebuild book. I have a new one arriving any day now.
  23. OK. Good call. Looks like I have a little time on my hands before it runs again so I don't have much excuse to not do it right. You're right, I don't want to have to deal with it on the side of the road at night in the rain or something.
  24. I got a couple of 5 pin relays to see if I could work around the issue. When I get things wired so the white halos work as running lights and the ambers blink when I use the turn signals the signals only work if the lights are on. If I rewire them so the ambers blink when the headlights are off the white halos don't come on when I turn on the lights. Not sure what's going on. I'll have to mess with them some more tomorrow. Someone on Facebook said that the red and green flying leads for the halos share a ground with the rest of the light so maybe I don't need to use the ground from the front s
  25. Good to know. I kept the stock one and the slightly longer 240sx one that was supposed to work but didn't. I am going to pick up some spares for sure in case the slight pulley offset thing I mentioned before becomes an issue and I end up needing a belt on short notice.
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