angel6er Posted March 8, 2020 Report Share Posted March 8, 2020 Recently picked up this 710 coupe. It runs well but I'm currently trying to figure out this issue: When I turn off the motor, it begins to shake. Anybody have any ideas on what it can be? I am thinking maybe the timing is off but not completely sure. Its an L20B with a dogleg 5 speed. Here are a few photos. Also on the lookout for 280zx struts to drop the front a little lol. Any suggestions would be appreciated, thank you 3 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted March 8, 2020 Report Share Posted March 8, 2020 It's common for the L20B to diesel or 'run on' after the ignition is shut off. The stock carb has an idle cut solenoid that shuts off fuel with the ignition being turned off. Easiest thing? Place in 4th or 5th with the brake firmly on, let the clutch up like you're going to drive away and load the engine down, then turn the ignition off and the engine will stall. Once the engine has fully stopped, let the clutch up all the way. Three or four times and you will do it fast and automatically every time you turn the engine off. Quote Link to comment
angel6er Posted March 8, 2020 Author Report Share Posted March 8, 2020 16 minutes ago, datzenmike said: It's common for the L20B to diesel or 'run on' after the ignition is shut off. The stock carb has an idle cut solenoid that shuts off fuel with the ignition being turned off. Easiest thing? Place in 4th or 5th with the brake firmly on, let the clutch up like you're going to drive away and load the engine down, then turn the ignition off and the engine will stall. Once the engine has fully stopped, let the clutch up all the way. Three or four times and you will do it fast and automatically every time you turn the engine off. Thank you for the tip! I will definitely try this. I was a little worried how the engine would shake after I turned it off lol I appreciate the knowledge thank you! Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted March 8, 2020 Report Share Posted March 8, 2020 You could also try turning the idle down to 700 or so if it isn't. Make sure neither carb is flooding or dripping gas into the intake while running and the idle mixture is not too rich. Spark plugs NGK BPR6ES What year??? Does it have the transistor ignition used on California cars?? Plug gap should be 0.038"-0.042" Has the compression been increased?? Quote Link to comment
Wookiepankak Posted March 18, 2020 Report Share Posted March 18, 2020 I could never get the guy selling that car to show it to me. Nice purchase! If you ever want to part with those vinyl top trip pieces let me know! Quote Link to comment
angel6er Posted April 4, 2020 Author Report Share Posted April 4, 2020 On 3/7/2020 at 7:49 PM, datzenmike said: You could also try turning the idle down to 700 or so if it isn't. Make sure neither carb is flooding or dripping gas into the intake while running and the idle mixture is not too rich. Spark plugs NGK BPR6ES What year??? Does it have the transistor ignition used on California cars?? Plug gap should be 0.038"-0.042" Has the compression been increased?? It'a a 1975 and it does have the transistor ignition. Plug gap is within that range. I used your tip when turning it off and it worked! Thank you again! Now looking for some 280zx front struts to hopefully swap out Quote Link to comment
shakotan710 Posted April 14, 2020 Report Share Posted April 14, 2020 Are you trying to upgrade to full coilovers or do you just want stock 280zx struts? Quote Link to comment
angel6er Posted April 16, 2020 Author Report Share Posted April 16, 2020 On 4/13/2020 at 5:28 PM, shakotan710 said: Are you trying to upgrade to full coilovers or do you just want stock 280zx struts? I'm going to get the weld on t3 coilovers and either get lowering blocks or de arch the springs for the rear Quote Link to comment
shakotan710 Posted April 16, 2020 Report Share Posted April 16, 2020 1 hour ago, angel6er said: I'm going to get the weld on t3 coilovers and either get lowering blocks or de arch the springs for the rear Good plan, I'm running a 280zx setup in the front that just needs to be rebuilt and I used to run 3" lowering blocks with 15" wheels. Once I'm focusing on suspension I'll probably go with a minor de-arching and run a slightly smaller lowering block. Quote Link to comment
angel6er Posted July 8, 2020 Author Report Share Posted July 8, 2020 Finally upgraded to 280zx struts/brakes with the Techno Toy Tuning Weld On Coilover Kit (used clamp collars with a weld under them). Used 3 inch lowering blocks with a 2 degree shim to lower the rears, Got new wheels: River Side Leos, 14x6.5 in the front and 14x7 in the rear. Liking the progress but I was having issues with my carb spitting some fuel. DId some adjustments/cleaned some jets but I feel it still is not running optimally. Next I plan on draining the trans/diff fluid as there is noise in 4th and 5th gears. Anybody have any recommendations on trans and diff fluid? 5 Quote Link to comment
angel6er Posted April 11, 2021 Author Report Share Posted April 11, 2021 Anybody know if there are shortened shocks that fit for the rear end? Thank you for your time Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted April 11, 2021 Report Share Posted April 11, 2021 That depends on how your 710 was lowered. If you used lowering blocks then you won't need shortened shocks. Quote Link to comment
angel6er Posted May 1, 2021 Author Report Share Posted May 1, 2021 On 4/11/2021 at 10:20 AM, datzenmike said: That depends on how your 710 was lowered. If you used lowering blocks then you won't need shortened shocks. Thank you Datzenmike! Quote Link to comment
angel6er Posted May 28, 2021 Author Report Share Posted May 28, 2021 Does anybody have any leads for the door/window and trunk rubber seals? I keep finding the seals for 4 doors only. I'm getting tired of water getting inside the car when I wash it. Thank you for any help! Quote Link to comment
angel6er Posted February 5, 2022 Author Report Share Posted February 5, 2022 Random question, would it be possible to transplant IRS from a 610 hard top to 710? I think I saw it on one of the other topics but I can’t find it Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted February 5, 2022 Report Share Posted February 5, 2022 It was probably IRS from a 610 sedan into a 610 wagon. Anything is possible with a wire feed wrench. I don't care for IRS, it's supposed to be this magical thing but it has so much wrong with it once you start pushing it. Camber and toe in and out changes during suspension movements. Look up trailing throttle steer. By the time you add massive coil springs, sway bar and HD shocks to control it, you might as well have a solid axle anyway. It would be very impressive to do but is it really worth it? Quote Link to comment
angel6er Posted January 12, 2023 Author Report Share Posted January 12, 2023 Anybody knows if there is a fuse i can pull to disable the fasten seatbelt chime? It keeps going off even when the car is off Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted January 12, 2023 Report Share Posted January 12, 2023 Seat belt warning and key left in ignition warning use the same buzzer. For the buzzer to be on.... 1/ key must be in the ignition in OFF position and driver's door is opened. Shouldn't buzz with key out. Or... 2/ Key is in the ON position and someone seated without seat belt fastened. Shouldn't buzz with key off or out of ignition. Can't pull the fuse as there are other things on that fuse that would be disabled. So is it the key in the ignition warning or unfastened seat belt warning????? Pull key out of ignition fix this? no?? Follow the seat belt anchor(s) to where they bolt to the floor. There will be two wires and a plug. Disconnect until buzzer stops. If nothing works the buzzer is somewhere behind the ash tray in the dash. Pull the plug off of the buzzer. Quote Link to comment
angel6er Posted January 18, 2023 Author Report Share Posted January 18, 2023 On 1/12/2023 at 1:51 PM, datzenmike said: Seat belt warning and key left in ignition warning use the same buzzer. For the buzzer to be on.... 1/ key must be in the ignition in OFF position and driver's door is opened. Shouldn't buzz with key out. Or... 2/ Key is in the ON position and someone seated without seat belt fastened. Shouldn't buzz with key off or out of ignition. Can't pull the fuse as there are other things on that fuse that would be disabled. So is it the key in the ignition warning or unfastened seat belt warning????? Pull key out of ignition fix this? no?? Follow the seat belt anchor(s) to where they bolt to the floor. There will be two wires and a plug. Disconnect until buzzer stops. If nothing works the buzzer is somewhere behind the ash tray in the dash. Pull the plug off of the buzzer. I ended up unplugging the plug and the buzz stopped but the light is still on, all of this with the ignition off and no key. Sounds like I’m going to have to find the plug behind the ash tray. Thank you for the help! Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted January 18, 2023 Report Share Posted January 18, 2023 That's no good the battery will go dead. Unplugging the light may not be the answer. Simply put, something has power when it should not. Only thing with power with the ignition off would be the lighting, horn, brake lights, 4 way emergency lights, clock and the interior light. Quote Link to comment
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