'72 510 dash padded top removal

[rosso]

I have a new used dash pad top for my '72 510 wagon that I have had stored in the back of the wagon along with other spare parts.

 

It's time to clean that out so I want to replace the cracked dash padded top with the spare good one. I searched the forum and could find no instructions on just removing the padded top to the dash - not the entire dash.

 

Is this easy to do? I thought it might be just 4 screws or something simple. Anyone have instructions, pictures, or video of replacing the dash padded top?
 

 

[Duncan]

I did mine a couple years ago, so my memory could be a bit fuzzy..

 

Does your replacement dashpad have the threaded studs on it?  I would look on the bottom of your replacement dashpad and make sure the studs are there.  If not, that needs to be remedied first.  

 

There should be 4 to 6 studs that go through the metal dash frame.  You do have to take out some parts of the dash to reach in and thread the nuts onto the studs.  

 

I put mine on first before the gauge section, radio, and glovebox sections were installed, so I'm not sure if all three sections have to come out.  

 

 

 

 

Edited August 9, 2019 by Duncan

[Duncan]

..

Edited August 9, 2019 by Duncan

[rosso]

I have six studs on my replacement dashpad, so I guess all I have to do is see where they line up on the actual dash and remove whatever is in the way to gain access.

 

Sound right?

 

If I need to take out the instrument cluster, I have a factory tach to install at the same time. Is there any way I can check that the tach works before putting it in?

 

I have no engine in the car.  😞

 

Thanks Duncan

[Duncan]

5 hours ago, rosso said:

I have six studs on my replacement dashpad, so I guess all I have to do is see where they line up on the actual dash and remove whatever is in the way to gain access.

 

Sound right?

 

 

That sounds right.  I'm thinking you may be able to leave the radio section in and get to the center studs from either end, but can't say for sure.  The dash (mostly) needs to come out, but its not that difficult.  4 screws hold the gauge housing in once the bezel is off.  Don't pull it out too far before you get all the connectors and the speedo cable free. 

 

I'm not sure how to bench test your tach.  I'd ask in the electrical section.  There are some smart mofo's there that can probably tell you.

 

Hopefully, you don't have to install the torsion bars for the rear hatch....THAT is a real pain.

 

 

 

 

Edited August 10, 2019 by Duncan

[rosso]

Thanks again, I posted the question in the electrical as you suggested.

 

My hatch works fine,. 🙂

 

I thought the rusted horn screws were a b**ch.