A14 smog equipment

[TWO-TEN]

Picked up a 210 that no longer needs to be smogged. Thinking about removing it, any suggestions on this matter would be helpful. Thanks

[Nicholas7620]

Picked up a 210 that no longer needs to be smogged. Thinking about removing it, any suggestions on this matter would be helpful. Thanks

 

I still have to smog and might be able to rehab some of the air control valves

you might be removing.

 

The smog equipment changed every year on the B210's. :eek:

[ggzilla]

210s were 1979-1982. B210s were 1974-1978. Don't remove anything, if it is working OK, removing it won't make it run better.

[az_rat210]

Determine what you want to achieve first. MPG vs Horsepower, enviromental, etc. After that, below are some various options to consider (note: I said consider, not do outright).

 

Be sure you have an idea of the ramifications of your actions before proceeding. The web is great for finding various options.

 

If you keep the smog equipment, there are 2 changes that will improve things.

 

1) Change the catalytic converter. Modern converters breath much better than the old charcoal style converters.

2) Crankcase to Intake hose, run it through an oil trap. This will clean up the air going into the intake from there.

 

Otherwise, if you are going to remove the smog equipment then do the following.

 

1) Remove the Air Pump. Where hose goes into manifold beside the Thermostat, put a bolt in to plug that hole. 1 Less Belted item is that much less drag on the engine, freeing up a couple of horses.

2) Block off your EGR, or change the vacuum out somehow so it only happens at idle.

3) KEEP the charcoal canister hookup, this traps and pulls vapors from the gas tank. You want to have those vapors going into the engine.

4) Consider a Weber DGV 32/36 carb, better fuel mileage and power.

 

Datsun1200.com is a great site for researching the A-Series engine.

 

Hope this helps out some.

[datzenmike]

.

 

Otherwise, if you are going to remove the smog equipment then do the following.

 

1) Remove the Air Pump. Where hose goes into manifold beside the Thermostat, put a bolt in to plug that hole. 1 Less Belted item is that much less drag on the engine, freeing up a couple of horses.

2) Block off your EGR, or change the vacuum out somehow so it only happens at idle.

3) KEEP the charcoal canister hookup, this traps and pulls vapors from the gas tank. You want to have those vapors going into the engine.

4) Consider a Weber DGV 32/36 carb, better fuel mileage and power.

 

Hope this helps out some.

 

Agree more or less with this. But...

 

Keep the stock PCV system operating.

 

EGR does not happen at idle. Dissable by removing the vacuum sourse and plug the port on the carb.

 

The 32/36 won't give you beter but might equal the stock csrb for mileage. If mileage improves it from the other changes. Extra performance is a given though.

[Guest jaimesix]

Having had a B210, I would say, if you are sure your car needs not be smogged again, take the stuff off if looking for performance and less drag on the engine.

 

Keep all the stuff you take out in a box, you never know when you might need it, and if you take it out yourself, take note about where did each part go in the car, in case of smog issues/tests in the future.

 

The air pump does nothing really to performance except being cumbersome, bulky and, yes, it robs HP by means of its pulley, so getting that stuff out helps your engine save energy.

 

The EGR system might be inoperative already. Most A series and L series engines I see have a system called "EGR Passage". It is a passage for exhaust recirculated air that enters the intake manifold via "EGR Passage" at the comand of the EGR valve which is energized by intake manifold vacuum.The valve is energized with high vacuum, via a vacuum hose connected on one side to the intake manifold, and on the other side to the EGR valve . The intake manifold experiences high manifold vacuum at deceleration, as well as at iddle. When the engine is at iddle, iddling, the manifold vacuum readings are high, as well as in deceleration, and it is then and only then that the EGR valve is opened.

At full throttle, full speeds , the manifold vacuum is low, and the EGR valve, receiving no vacuum, remains closed.

 

If the EGR passage is clogged with hardened carbon deposits as 99.0% passages are, your EGR valve will have been frozen for years. Repplacing a new EGR valve does nothing, and the new valve will get frozen soon when installed on a clogged EGR passage.

Unless you are going to use a sidedraught carburetor system, or a Canon downdraught manifold ( not the factory manifold you are using right now ), you can leave the EGR valve and EGR passage alone, because the clogged passage and the frozen EGR valve are solid stuck, these parts have no bearing on your performance. For aesthetics, then you can remove the EGR valve and even the EGR pasage and use a flat aluminun plate instead of the passage, eliminating the EGR passage and EGR mounting bracket for a cleaner look.

 

If you remove the air pump and EGR stuff, you might as well rid your car of the catalyc converter, which is old, and probably as ineffective as your EGR system.

 

The Positive Crankcase Ventilation System ( 2 hoses, one from the valve cover to the air intake housing/filter, and another one from the back of the engine block to the intake manifold via PCV valve ), rids your block, the internal area in your engine block, out of bad air, contaminated oil in suspension, and acids. It is a needed system.

The need is there to rid the block of these bad agents which would otherwise destroy your engine parts and contaminate the engine oil rendering it useless.

You can rid the block of these agents and recirculate this bad air into the engine intake as the stock system does, or you can use a catch can system as in performance vehicles and still rid the block of these bad air, but instead of recirculating these bad stuff again into the engine intake manifold, you can stop it from re entering the engine.

If the stock system is in working order and if you are not modifying your engine to a degree of better intake and exhaust flow , then the stock system is fine and all it would need is cleaning of those 2 hoses which might be all clogged up, cleaning or replacing of the PCV valve at manifold for smooth air passage, and cleaning/replacing of the air filter housing small PCV filter ( which if neglected, becomes a solid rock nonbreathable hindrance on the ventilation system.)

 

You could use a catch can to connect both hoses to ...( instead of connecting the engine block hose to the PCV valve at manifold and the valve cover hose to the air filter housing ) ...the can like in performance vehicles like I already mentioned, but that is needed if you modify your engine, to keep the mixture purer and cooler, free from hot and contaminated recirculated air, but in a stock car, w/o major mods,not mandatory.

I use a catch can on my cars, to assure, like aforementioned, cooler mixture and no recirculated bad air from the crankcase into the intake manifold, but the issue is not that dramatic, so if you leave your PCV system intact, just make sure you clean/replace hoses, filter and PCV valve as need. A clogged PCV system creates sludge, forces oil through gaskets , hence rendering your engine a oil dripper.

 

Jaime.____________________________________________________

Edited December 17, 2008 by jaimesix

[2doorTurd]

Keep in mind that just because you don't have to smog (i.e., Tailpipe Sniffer), doesn't mean they won't do a visual inspection to make sure everything is still intact, I don't know all the regulations for where you live, but in Oregon, there is still a visual inspection on vehicles registered in an area where you have to run your car through the smog tests. If it came with emissions equipment, it should at least "appear" to work when it goes in for testing.

 

As far as EGR goes, there should only ever be EGR when you are at a constant speed, such as the freeway. EGR is designed to lower combustion temperatures by introducing inert "gases" into the combustion chamber. This in turn allows you to run the ignition system with more advance than otherwise possible to prevent detonation. The EGR system does not connect directly to an open port on the intake manifold. If it was connected that way, the engine would run rough if not stall at idle, but it may run OK at speed or during acceleration. There should be a thermostatic ported vacuum switch between the carburetor and the EGR valve itself; this switch is inline with that hose. This switch is designed to allow "ported" vacuum from the carburetor to the EGR valve after the engine reaches operating temperature.

 

Ported vacuum is vacuum that is only present via a port above the throttle plates on the carburetor. It is above the throttle plates so that the line connected to it does not receive vacuum anytime the engine is running, only when the throttle is open so far (generally meaning where the throttle is most likely to be when at a cruising speed).