JesseR Posted April 28, 2017 Report Share Posted April 28, 2017 Alternator Conversion to a 60 Amp Subaru So after much reading I decided to follow Gearheads idea to use a 60 Amp internally regulated alternator from a Subaru to replace the stock unit from my 76 620. I have a Napa in town so I went with an 82 – 89 Subaru alternator, All Subarus used the same alternator those years. [/url] The Subaru alternator uses the same T harness as the Datsun and the mounting tab locations, holes and spacing are the same. The Subaru alternator is a little bit larger in size. Plug and play. All mounting hardware is metric 8-1.25 pitch. I replaced my lower hardware with metric hardened from my local Ace. Getting the lower back bolt and nut on takes some dexterity. The alternator clears all the radiator hoses and nipples with plenty of room and adjust-ability. Photo from the bottom [/url] Photo from the back [/url] The only mounting modification required was to flip the adjustment bracket upside-down as it would not clear the larger alternator. I have full adjustment still and have no clearance issues. [/url] Because of the larger alternator I did have to go with a slightly larger belt. I settled on a 10mm x 891mm (13/32x35-1/8) belt [/url] Next I bypassed the external regulator by removing the old unit and cutting off the harness. Jumpers need to be created by joining Yellow to White and White/Red to White/Black. Black goes to chassis ground and the White/Blue goes to the Electric Choke relay which is disconnected for now. I will look into wiring that into ingition 12v later. [url=http://s1376.photobucket.com/user/jessekrepp/media/Datsun/Datsun%20Alternator%20Conversion/20170428_083733_zpscuwft4pf.jpg.html][/url] [url=http://s1376.photobucket.com/user/jessekrepp/media/Datsun/Datsun%20Alternator%20Conversion/20170428_083736_zpsrjlxq9gd.jpg.html][/url] Leave all other factory wiring and fuse-able links in place. Done and charging, I hope this helps others. Alternator was $60, new belt was $17, misc hardware was cheap. I am charging and will let you know what my voltage numbers are once I get everything settles in. Thank you to the forum for continuing to provide excellent advice, alternate solutions and an honest hard time when we deserve it! My local Napa guys are always curious when I walk in there now! 1 Quote Link to comment
JesseR Posted April 28, 2017 Author Report Share Posted April 28, 2017 [/url]"> [/url]">http://s1376.photobucket.com/user/jessekrepp/media/Datsun/Datsun%20Alternator%20Conversion/20170428_083736_zpsrjlxq9gd.jpg.html'> Not sure why they did not show up in the above post. These are the 2 missing pictures Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted April 28, 2017 Report Share Posted April 28, 2017 Connect the Blue auto choke heater wire to the Red idle cut solenoid right beside it. Both my 710s are wired this way. Alternator clears the idler arm grease fitting under it ok??? Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted April 28, 2017 Report Share Posted April 28, 2017 I will assume this is a L20 motor that uses the bigger bolts going thru the ears(holes) L16 alternator use a small hole in the mount so It will have to be drill out for the bigger alternator as its a bigger hole But good write up most alternaotrs will have a Case marking or Hitachi, Nipondenso or Mitshibitshi Diamond. I heard the no maker marks are new Chinese. Let us know if you know Quote Link to comment
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