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About JesseR

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  • Location
    Southern Oregon
  • Cars
    1976 Datsun 620, 2003 F150
  • Interests
    Audio, Sailing, Tinkering, Volleyball
  1. JesseR

    Custom MagnaFlow Exhaust with Side Exit

    I let Rich do it all in house.
  2. JesseR

    Custom MagnaFlow Exhaust with Side Exit

    It does not touch anywhere even though it is close. It is, no pun intended, well hung. It does not sound like a rice burner for sure with a nice rich truck tone and a little gurgle on idle down. No tip for me, ruins the look i was going for, the angle everything is cut at should be good on the paint. if it becomes a problem i will add a small patch of protective film above the exit. Muffler was not cheap but it was one of the only options available that allowed the plumbing to go over the rail. it was worth it for a little fun, and a little personality. all said and done it was around 400. I did not have to mess with it and the old muffler had leaks and had to go anyway.
  3. JesseR

    Custom MagnaFlow Exhaust with Side Exit

    The photos worked when posted.... Photobucket account has been deleted.... Images have been moved to Amazon but their links do not embed in the forum, I guess if you are interested, click on the link. Would rather be working on the truck than trying to figure out how to get pictures to work.
  4. I finally got around to removing the stock exhaust and upgrade to something a little more unique. I went all new from the manifold flange, 2.25 pipe routed high and tight to a Magnaflow 14210 muffler. The downpipe was routed away from the engine and located between the torsion bar and frame. This muffler is for the Mustang with the side exit and is unique because the inlet and the outlet are on the same end. This allowed the outlet from the muffler to be routed over the frame rail and dump out in front of the back tire. It has a great sound and unique look. Just wanted to share. https://www.amazon.com/photos/share/qYIwJguP3Nv7FOvC4DIgcNy2B6dpW8W5nQZjWADM1tS https://www.amazon.com/photos/share/sPTTG7xcBlGJ5WuyY4ZhDMM81aQsi8ndJiHvOZxiM3v https://www.amazon.com/photos/share/IvlkJqCemj3hdXpbNNQLdQgWfKq2BiazCZZIREiCgog https://www.amazon.com/photos/share/HqJZrNQTl2NwFxoJ8eKfcP5wstLH7bNV8OKBeTAAWAK https://www.amazon.com/photos/share/ih35z8vlC5RM426E1UbWUpcy9dx9HcNZWmaWUSGRFmr The work was done by Rich's Performance Exhaust. Rich did a youtube video of the install that can be seen here: https://youtu.be/viBULWKUw1s
  5. JesseR

    What did you do to your 620 today?

    ordered a new radiator, water pump and fan clutch
  6. JesseR

    620 Alternator Conversion to the 82-89 Subaru 60 Amp

    [/url]"> [/url]">http://s1376.photobucket.com/user/jessekrepp/media/Datsun/Datsun%20Alternator%20Conversion/20170428_083736_zpsrjlxq9gd.jpg.html'> Not sure why they did not show up in the above post. These are the 2 missing pictures
  7. Alternator Conversion to a 60 Amp Subaru So after much reading I decided to follow Gearheads idea to use a 60 Amp internally regulated alternator from a Subaru to replace the stock unit from my 76 620. I have a Napa in town so I went with an 82 – 89 Subaru alternator, All Subarus used the same alternator those years. [/url] The Subaru alternator uses the same T harness as the Datsun and the mounting tab locations, holes and spacing are the same. The Subaru alternator is a little bit larger in size. Plug and play. All mounting hardware is metric 8-1.25 pitch. I replaced my lower hardware with metric hardened from my local Ace. Getting the lower back bolt and nut on takes some dexterity. The alternator clears all the radiator hoses and nipples with plenty of room and adjust-ability. Photo from the bottom [/url] Photo from the back [/url] The only mounting modification required was to flip the adjustment bracket upside-down as it would not clear the larger alternator. I have full adjustment still and have no clearance issues. [/url] Because of the larger alternator I did have to go with a slightly larger belt. I settled on a 10mm x 891mm (13/32x35-1/8) belt [/url] Next I bypassed the external regulator by removing the old unit and cutting off the harness. Jumpers need to be created by joining Yellow to White and White/Red to White/Black. Black goes to chassis ground and the White/Blue goes to the Electric Choke relay which is disconnected for now. I will look into wiring that into ingition 12v later. [url=http://s1376.photobucket.com/user/jessekrepp/media/Datsun/Datsun%20Alternator%20Conversion/20170428_083733_zpscuwft4pf.jpg.html][/url] [url=http://s1376.photobucket.com/user/jessekrepp/media/Datsun/Datsun%20Alternator%20Conversion/20170428_083736_zpsrjlxq9gd.jpg.html][/url] Leave all other factory wiring and fuse-able links in place. Done and charging, I hope this helps others. Alternator was $60, new belt was $17, misc hardware was cheap. I am charging and will let you know what my voltage numbers are once I get everything settles in. Thank you to the forum for continuing to provide excellent advice, alternate solutions and an honest hard time when we deserve it! My local Napa guys are always curious when I walk in there now!
  8. Sorry I have not been on in a while, the valve was on the truck when i got it, I can inspect it more closely and see if there are markings on it if you all are still curious.
  9. Ah, the infamous counter clockwise spin. I had the truck go full 180 in that direction at 25 mph on a dry road braking to avoid an animal. Fortunately there was no one on the road around me. I think I ordered the disk brake parts the same week. The speedometer does not work correctly. I got it that way. It is off by a random amount and does not register over 40mph. I gave up and just use DigiHud on an old phone that I have. As for the tires. The truck had 205/75/14's when I got it, I just went equivalent size to that. I figured how the tire width would fit with the wider rim. I could not find any inexpensive 15x6 rims that would work for me. I got them at Summit for $53 a piece on sale. I am glad i went with the 15x7's. I went to the dump yesterday and the tires still were able to tuck under the fender with a load in the rear. [/url]">http://s1376.photobucket.com/user/jessekrepp/media/Datsun/20161207_081954_zpsrbsolieb.jpg.html'>
  10. I am going to order the Raybestos MC39279, the MC for a 79 620. That way its setup for the disk/drum configuration and i get a larger reservoir for the front fluid. I have credit at Summit Racing i need to use anyway. Took some getting use to the new brake feel today. It drives much better and its nice not having to guess which way the truck it going to go when you have to use the brakes.
  11. What rebuild kit should I order in order to get the disk brake valve for the front. It seems like the best solution. Or is it better to just order a MC for a truck with disk front.
  12. Could i just remove the residual valve from the 3/4 master cylinder I have? I have been reading posts about the differences between the 3/4 and the 13/16 and they both seem fine. Is there something I am missing other than the RV.
  13. Hello all, I just completed a front disk brake conversion using Beebani's brackets and parts list. I wanted to share my experience. This conversion was on my 76 620 short bed regular cab. I had a leaky drum piston and the thing never stopped anyway so I treated myself. I was really surprised at how easy this conversion was but i wish i had some of the following info before starting. I went with 15" US Wheel steelies in black to replace my 14s, they are 15x7, 3.75 backspace and the fit is perfect. tires are new Bridgestone Ecopias 205/65/R15. I went with 15s to have as much sidewall as possible to make up for the lack of suspension. The truck is lowered 2.5 inches in the front and 2 in the rear in case you are interested. I like the stance and it is still a usable daily driver and work/trash hauler. I began with the tear down, I was surprised how easily all the bolts and brake lines came free. Next I pressure washed the remaining parts with a little cleaner. Now Install Beebani's brackets, i primed them first. I was really happy with the fit. Beebani's kit did not include the bracket or caliper mounting bolts. I was able to reuse the drum mounting bolts but had to order the M12x1.25 pitch 30mm caliper bolts from Fastenal. They are grade 10.9. Fastenal also provided lock washers. Next I used brake cleaner to clean all the bearings, hubs and spindle parts. Repacked all bearings and reinstalled the hubs. When i was installing the rotors I had one that would not fit over the hub. I used a grinder with a flap disk to sand the outer edge of the hub until the disk fit. I Ordered the calipers (loaded with pads), brake lines and rotors from RockAuto. One thing to mention is none of these parts came with the banjo bolts required to connect the brake line to the caliper. I had to get the metric (Japanese application) banjo bolts from Napa. Now the calipers can be installed. I used 2 lug nuts to hold the rotor in place while assembling the calipers. The brake lines all got cinched down and bled with new fluid. I am, for now using the stock 3/4 master cylinder. Tires got reinstalled and road tested. The brake seems to have a little to much travel but i am guessing that is because the 3/4 mc is not moving enough fluid. I can order the larger one if anyone can confirm that that is my issue? My biggest take away, easy conversion, order your banjo bolts and caliper mounting bolts well in advance of starting because it can take time. The banjo bolts and caliper mounting bolts could not be purchased from RockAuto. Definitely a worthwhile upgrade. For less that a $1000 i got new rims, tires, and brand new disk brakes that stop!
  14. The heater is entirely aluminium. The old one must have been mostly clogged in addition to leaking, this thing puts out serious heat.
  15. Sorry for the delay Here is the new heater core, the inlet and outlet are the right size, they are just a little longer and in a slightly different orientation. The hardest part about selecting the right heater core is they are all by application and the sizes listed are for the core and do not include the tanks. [/url]"> Here i took the Dremel to the heater box to make room for the new inlet orientation [/url]"> The fit is snug with the factory installed foam [/url]"> [/url]"> Here is the inlet and outlet plumbing using 5/8 90s [/url]"> [/url]"> Here is the new heater hose to the passenger side defroster, I secured the hose to the heater box using 2 small plastic angle brackets in the original holes, just cut a small slit in the hose to secure everything. [/url]">http://s1376.photobucket.com/user/jessekrepp/media/Datsun/Datsun%20Heater%20Core/20161010_082048_zpsb5hl0dcu.jpg.html'>

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