Relay question

[SlikRick]

Ok, so I installed a new ignition switch assembly and now my fuel pump only kicks on when I turn it to the start position. I also wired in a new OEM ignition switch connector, mine was toast. And now my truck wont start it turns over, its getting fuel, but it wont fire. It did before, although the timing was off, Im thinking maybe I didnt put the distributor back to the corrrect timing mark when I installed the new one, I didnt remove the the shaft just the distributor. Can anyone offer some help something Im missing. Other wise I guess find TDC for #1 and go from there.

[pope_face]

Yeah, TDC sounds like a good place to start, although I'm not much of a tech. As for the ignition switch, are you sure you wired it all up correctly? Is it possible your fuel pump is wired to the starter wire, not the ignition? I'd say go over that first, and if everything looks good and it still won't start then maybe try running a switch off a constant 12V to your fuel pump, that way you can turn it on, then use the key to start the car. If it fires, then find out why your fuel pump isn't working. If not, then you've got another issue.

[Icehouse]

Wow quite a few variables, I would see if the coil is sparking, if so timing is off. Well fuel would help to so fist fix the fuel before you mess with the timing. As for the ignition switch... If the fuel pump used to come on and now it doesn't something is wired wrong.

[datzenmike]

Ok, so I installed a new ignition switch assembly and now my fuel pump only kicks on when I turn it to the start position. I also wired in a new OEM ignition switch connector, mine was toast. And now my truck wont start it turns over, its getting fuel, but it wont fire. It did before, although the timing was off, Im thinking maybe I didnt put the distributor back to the corrrect timing mark when I installed the new one, I didnt remove the the shaft just the distributor. Can anyone offer some help something Im missing. Other wise I guess find TDC for #1 and go from there.

 

 

The '85s had a Fuel Pump Control Module that is basically, a relay used to turn the fuel pump on and off under preset conditions. The module also has some logic built in to not allow the fuel pump to run if the oil sending switch indicates no oil pressure, thus saving the engine from damage. The module will also not allow the fuel pump to run if the alternator is not generating, except during cranking. The module is tied to the fuel pump, "L" terminal of the alternator, the ignition and accessory fuses, the oil pressure switch and ground. In order for the electric fuel pump to work you must have at least one of the two following conditions met:

 

ONE: key turned to the start position. (engine cranking)

 

OR

 

TWO: you must have oil pressure AND the alternator charging. (assume engine running)

 

Sounds like it is working ok to me.

 

If you removed the distributor without removing the drive spindle then the new one should be within the adjustment range of the old one. If the wires were off, or the cap replaced, check each wire goes to the correct cylinder. The cap is marked I4 (Intake four) E3 (Exhaust three) and so on but with 8 wires it's very easy to mix the plug ends up.

 

If you re-wired the ignition switch, maybe the wires are mixed up and no power to the coils or ignition module. Pull the two plug wires on the #1 cylinder and stick a pair of old spark plugs in the ends and lay on a grounded surface like the valve cover. Crank it over an look for spark on both plugs. This will test power to the module and both coils and is easy to do.

Edited October 29, 2008 by datzenmike

[SlikRick]

Fixed it, fuel pump control module was stuck, replaced it with a new one. Now I just need to get it timed , I dont like the idle and I maxed out the dist. adjustment. Idiot that put the motor together couldnt get it timed because he lost the woodruff key and of course the timing marks weren't in the right position.

Edited November 6, 2008 by SlikRick