Doctor510 Posted May 10, 2016 Report Share Posted May 10, 2016 The cold valve setting is .25 mm. Does this mean I use the feeler gauge marked both .229 .279 (is this a range?) to slide under? And if the next largest gauge (.254 .305) does not slide under, then it's correctly adjusted? Are these ranges of numbers on each gauge? The actual reading of the gauge is my question. You have what is called a "go/no go" feeler gauge it's a good one, I use an SAE numbered feeler gauge, Cold settings 0.25 mm or 0.010 inch. As you said. If you can slip the smaller size under the rocker and the larger size will NOT slip in you're good to go. If you did indeed torque the head like you said, "the air cleaner" was in the way, REMOVE the air cleaner and re-torque the head COLD. 1 Quote Link to comment
jboulukos Posted May 10, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 10, 2016 You have what is called a "go/no go" feeler gauge it's a good one, I use an SAE numbered feeler gauge, Cold settings 0.25 mm or 0.010 inch. As you said. If you can slip the smaller size under the rocker and the larger size will NOT slip in you're good to go. If you did indeed torque the head like you said, "the air cleaner" was in the way, REMOVE the air cleaner and re-torque the head COLD. Thanks for this info. I didn't torque the head hot and won't. As far as the feeler gauges go...the go/no go gauges I have do not have an exact .25mm gauge. So which gauge can be used for .25mm? Do I use the .229 .279 gauge for .25mm? They do not have one exact metric measurement. 1 Quote Link to comment
Doctor510 Posted May 10, 2016 Report Share Posted May 10, 2016 Thanks for this info. I didn't torque the head hot and won't. As far as the feeler gauges go...the go/no go gauges I have do not have an exact .25mm gauge. So which gauge can be used for .25mm? Do I use the .229 .279 gauge for .25mm? They do not have one exact metric measurement. I'd use the (.254 .305) one 1 Quote Link to comment
jboulukos Posted May 10, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 10, 2016 You can adjust straight Hot. Good to retorque the head bolts after 500 or 600 miles. Only retorque the head bolts cold, never hot. The pulley nut is a 27mm if I remember correctly if you want to put a socket on it for turning the engine. You can also use the distributor position to determine if you are at number 1. To save confusion on adjusting the valve last just write down and counting front to back of motor. Cylinder 1 TDC adjust 1,2,3,5 Rotate 1 full turn to cylinder 4 TDC adjust 4,6,7,8. Can you double check the pulley nut size for me? Quote Link to comment
jboulukos Posted May 10, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 10, 2016 When turning the engine by hand watch the #1 intake valve spring. When it lifts completely you are on the compression stroke. Slowly turn the engine and watch the pulley near the timing scale (the thing with the 0 10 20 on it. You should see a small v or groove turn into position on the pulley rim. Stop there is close enough. After adjusting valves in TDC 1, and upon turning crank one full turn, will the intake valve of cylinder 4 go up for TDC 4 just as the intake of cylinder 1 goes up during TDC 1? Quote Link to comment
Doctor510 Posted May 10, 2016 Report Share Posted May 10, 2016 After adjusting valves in TDC 1, and upon turning crank one full turn, will the intake valve of cylinder 4 go up for TDC 4 just as the intake of cylinder 1 goes up during TDC 1? Yes try it with the spark plugs OUT. If you can get your hands on a remote starter switch, it will be easier. Quote Link to comment
jboulukos Posted May 11, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 11, 2016 Alright, I was able to use a 7/8 inch socket at the alternator pulley to turn the engine for TDC 1 and 4. After adjusting the valves hot, I started the car up. I noticed there was some "tapping" noise from the valves. This is a sign they were adjusted too loose, correct? Quote Link to comment
hogboy52 Posted May 23, 2016 Report Share Posted May 23, 2016 I would rather not try to adjust pushrod valves with feeler guages. Over time the valve stem tip will wear a divot into the rocker arm surface and a feeler guage will give a false reading. Instead I turn the adjuster to snug so the pushrod will spin with some resistance then back off the adjuster a set amount and tighten. The A-motor screw threads are 1mm. so 1/4 turn would be .25mm., however the rocker ratio is greater than 1/1 (don't remember the actual ratio) so I back off 1/6 turn (one nut flat) or maybe less. This is very much quicker and all the valves lash are very close to each other. There was a tool made for this at one time. It had a disk with numbers for various engine models. 1 Quote Link to comment
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