Carb trouble

[720driver97]

I have the webber degv 32/36 carb on my z24 with electric choke and I'm having some trouble, first when I turn the choke the flap won't move untill the engine is running then it moves on its own but won't move all the way open when the engine is hot. Also the engine won't kick down like its supposed to I'm guessing these two problems are related. Finally when I try to turn the truck off it will diesel for maybe 30 seconds or so then it will stop kind of violently and shoot gas up and out of the carb. Any ideas how to fix any of this?

[wayno]

Do not let it diesel like that, it is not good for it.

When your going to shut down the engine, put it in first, turn the key off and let out the clutch at the same time, no more problem.

The Weber carb does not have a fuel shut off like the stock carb has to stop the run on/dieseling, that is why you need to shut your engine down the way I described.

I don't know much about carb choke adjustment, I am sure someone will chime in.

[poopypants720]

Lol think he's in an automatic... Says something about a kickdown, so don't think he can drop the clutch to cut the dieseling...But he should get the fuel cut off solenoid.

 

Op

 

If it's not kicking down, I'd assume you forgot either a kick down lever or a vacuum line hook up for your transmission. Don't have an automatic myself and all I've met with 720's have been manual.. But I doubt there is a throttle position sensor or kickdown at the pedal itself... Look for the possible lever or vacuum line.

 

 

As for the choke, if it's not opening all the way with the electric heater then you need to look into reclocking your choke heater coil spring.

 

Do this when it's cold. For the electric heater reclock, back off off the 3 screws on the little outside plate holding down the choke. This is so you can turn the choke heater. When you twist it back and forth, you'll see you can move the whole choke assembly by hand the way the coil does. Set it to RIGHT before it will open by hand, barely closed, then tighten down the screws... Also make sure the wire going to it has a good 12v when the key is on and running.

 

As for the choke not setting, you probably need to adjust your fast idle cam screw.

 

This is done after it's already warmed up. Setting your fast idle screw is the same as the initial tuning as described in the directions. Block open the choke, crank the throttle lever all the way to hold open the choke. Then start the car without hitting the gas(touching the gas will close the choke again) and adjust the screw on the choke cam... That might help..

[datzenmike]

If standard use 4th or 5th and lift the clutch slightly to load the engine. Then turn ignition off and engine will stall quickly.

 

If automatic just shut off in drive or if in reverse and when engine stalls place in Park.

[living_4kicks]

Were you able to fix your truck? I have a similar problem on my 84.

[datzenmike]

Carb needs idle cut solenoid. Otherwise...

 

If standard use 4th or 5th and lift the clutch slightly to load the engine. Then turn ignition off and engine will stall quickly.

 

If automatic just shut off in drive or if in reverse and when engine stalls place in Park.

[living_4kicks]

Well finally got heat in the shop and was able to fix my truck.

1) put the battery on a charger for a couple hours.

2) checked compression, 100-130psi.

3) turned truck over and it ran rough, got it running steady by feathering the gas.

4) when the truck was at normal temp noticed that the choke wasn't working.

5) turned the truck off, left the key on and had no power to the choke. replaced fuse and the wire.

6) Turned truck back on, let it run until normal temp and choke was fully open.

7) turned idle down until it was normaly

 

Drove it around and didn't have any problems. Left it running for half hour, turned it off sit for hour or so, started it again and everything seems to be going good.

[720driver97]

My choke won't work either so I got a manual conversion kit and I'm puting that in tonight