mhub91 Posted January 4, 2016 Report Share Posted January 4, 2016 So I ended up getting a KA24DE from my friend for free. He got it from a guy who said it was a "$100 junkyard engine that has been laying around for a while". Tonight, I decided to begin disassembling it to see what i'm getting into. Spark plugs removed, I placed my thumb over each tube and cranked it over with a ratchet - no compression in any of the cylinders. I decided to pull the intake off to take a look down in the cylinders and at the valves to see what was the possible cause. I found that all 8 of the intake valves are stuck 3/4 of the way open. The cam also only makes contact at the tip of the lobe. What the hell causes ALL of the intake valves to stick?! I'm thinkin 1 of 2 things happened. 1 - rust, corrosion, or some other buildup has caused the valves to stick, but this makes me wonder why only the intake and not exhaust, too? Note that the valve cover is missing. Who knows how long it's been missing? 2 - the KA is an interference engine; have all the intake valves struck a pistion, bending them? :confused: Look like I'll be pulling the head on this one soon. :thumbup: Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted January 4, 2016 Report Share Posted January 4, 2016 Probably stored outside on it's side in the rain. Take the intake cam off and turn to TDC #1 so the valves would normally be open on #2 and #3 cylinders. Tap #2 and #3 intake valves with a hammer and block of wood. This should dislodge them and make them pop back up. Now rotate the engine ONE turn and do #1 and #4 intake valves. Might want to tap these valves many times to knock of any rust on the valve a seat faces and get a good seal. Truth is if the stems were that rusty the valve faces are probably toast.. Quote Link to comment
mhub91 Posted January 4, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 4, 2016 Probably stored outside on it's side in the rain. Take the intake cam off and turn to TDC #1 so the valves would normally be open on #2 and #3 cylinders. Tap #2 and #3 intake valves with a hammer and block of wood. This should dislodge them and make them pop back up. Now rotate the engine ONE turn and do #1 and #4 intake valves. Might want to tap these valves many times to knock of any rust on the valve a seat faces and get a good seal. Truth is if the stems were that rusty the valve faces are probably toast.. Well, to tell you the truth, I planned on rebuilding this engine. I got it for free, so putting a few dollars into it isn't too big of a deal. I made this post to get an idea of what could have happend. I completely agree that if the guides / valves are corroded enough to make them stick this bad, they are toast. Quote Link to comment
flatcat19 Posted January 4, 2016 Report Share Posted January 4, 2016 Did you think about removing the valve cover? Quote Link to comment
mhub91 Posted January 4, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 4, 2016 Valve cover is missing. Has been since junkyard Quote Link to comment
Big_E-Dog Posted January 7, 2016 Report Share Posted January 7, 2016 wow uh lol start with the head. obvously the bottom end is ok since you can crank it. take the head off and dick with it. if push omes to shove youll need another head. Quote Link to comment
mhub91 Posted January 7, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 7, 2016 Still a really high chance of the pistons being damaged by the valves... Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted January 7, 2016 Report Share Posted January 7, 2016 If you turned it by hand you're ok. Piston only tops out at TDC and cam lobe has passed and not holding valve open. The piston would push the valve closed to where it can pass below it. You're obsessing.... take it apart. :lol: 1 Quote Link to comment
mhub91 Posted January 7, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 7, 2016 hahaha, I'm pretty bad about automatically going to "worst case scenario", it's in my nature. Mike, I have a few things to pick your brain about..... I've always wanted to build a "frankenstein engine" with various L, Z, KA parts. Here's what I have right now: KA24E pistons, rods (slight dish pistons, 1990/91 S13 engine) KA24DE engine (Frontier engine, single row timing chain) Z24i engine Z22 block Z22 crank L20 block L20 pitons, rods. Also have some CRAZY domed 11.5:1 KA24 pistons!!! Venolia brand. I've referred to Jason Gray(?) info and seems like 2.3L big bore LZ23 would be easiest. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted January 7, 2016 Report Share Posted January 7, 2016 2.3 yes. Z22 bored 2mm or L20B block bored 4mm, Z22 crank, Z22 or L20B rods (are the same if early Z22) Keep only the Z22 block/crank/rods//KA pistons for everything else put L20B parts on.... timing cover/oil pan/head/engine brackets/manifolds... everything. S13 or D21 pistons will work. Press piston pins onto the L20B/Z22 rods. Byron on The Realm has one with cam and side drafts makes 135RWHP. Stock 2.3 should be good for 115-120hp with down draft 32/36. Quote Link to comment
mhub91 Posted January 7, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 7, 2016 Unfortunately, my Z22 block has the infamous crack across the head bolt / water passage near cyl 2 and 3. Can this be repaired? OR - can I use an ARP stud kit to ensure I don't damage the area even further? Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted January 7, 2016 Report Share Posted January 7, 2016 Sealik had his welded and then decked to level it. You have to have the block over bored anyway have the deck skimmed to clean it up. 1 Quote Link to comment
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.