Jump to content

SAS advice


SASdatsun

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 3
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

There are a few different aspects to doing a solid axle swap. First and most obvious is getting the axle under the truck. Leaf springs are defintely the easiest and cheper than links. You are going to need some sort of a hig steer setup for the Toyota axle. Marlin, Trail Gear, All Pro all make high steer setups, but if you plan to keep the truck on the low side, their arms won't work, they are too tall. If you want a pair of flat steering arms, Front Range Off Road sells them. Try to use the GM "one ton" tie rod ends too. They last much longer than the FJ80 joints that everybody sells and they flex quite a bit too.

 

Second is gearing and axle upgrades. I would consider some type of locker whether it be a Detroit or ARB or Toytota electric locker. Stay away fromt the "lunch box locekrs" as they are pretty weak. Axle shaft upgrades are available from RCV and Longfield, but since Trail Gear bought Longfield, the quality has suffered considerably and people are not starting to complain about the warranty.

 

Gearing depends on what you will be doing with the truck, how you drive it, how much horspower you have and your tire size. If you are going to go 33's or bigger consider 4.88's or 5.29's.

 

I like to use the Tacoma brakes on the mini truck axle, but if you go this route, consider the Tacoma booster and master to complete the package.

 

As far as hanging the axle, there are many ways to skin that cat. Modified Toyota rear springs, Wagoneer springs, TG springs all work, but I like the OME springs. They are cheap and don't lift the truck a mile high. They sell a 2" front and rear package for about $100 per spring. I don't know the frame width on the Datcuns, but if it is similar to the Toyotas, definitely go through the frame for the shackle mount instead of welding the shackle mount to the underside of the frame. 

 

If you get the axle under the truck and you don't like the pinion or caster angles, you can do a cut-n-turn on the axle for about $200. This way you can set your caster (between 4.5 and 8 degrees) and turn yur pinion up as high as you want. If you're running a CV shaft up front, you want the pinion pointed up at the shaft anyway.

 

Are you planning on using a Toyota power stering box? If you do, mount it as far forward and as high as possible. On my builds, I make my own frame plates that incorporate the steering box into them. And if you need to use a flat pitman arm for clearance, don't be afraid to notch the frame to get it to clear.

 

I'd love to see a build thread if you decide to go ahead and do this.

 

If you're curious, I have a couple build threads going right now. They aren't Datsuns, but the idea is the same.

http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/146195-Modern-Farm-Truck

http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/132792-1st-Gen-Hilux-3RZ-build-thread-Stoffregen-Motorsports

  • Like 2
Link to comment

There are a couple decent threads on here for SASing a 720. Stoff knows his stuff, so listen up when he answers. Try looking for poor man's 720 build thread. That's the only one I can remember offhand, but also Google "720 SAS Ratsun" and you should be able to find some others.

  • Like 1
Link to comment

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.