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just found water in my stupid carb again. anyone have any idea why it happens?


btd19m

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looking back that fuel at least the 98 has been sitting for about 2 years since we bought at 110c per L (total was 5000L at the time)

might explain why the ss is playing up at the moment. only used the 98 in 2 cars (the datsun and a perfect 1977 ss torana (253v8) show car [been in the family for about 25 years now my mother bought it back in the early 80's passed it on a few years ago)

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Pure methanol is hydroscopic... it absorbs water, even right out of the air so it must be kept pure. If you have large storage tanks and decant fuel into your own vehicles you should have provision for filtering out any water right there. Then 100ml of methanol with a fill up should absorb any moisture in the gas and prevent it accumulating in the tank.

 

The idle speed screw is the one just to the left of the one with the spring around it on the bottom right of the picture. The idle speed screw also has a spring wrapped around it and is partly behind that vertical linkage, bottom center of picture.
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Beware of Chinese 'clone' rip offs. Must be a Weber carb. This is an expensive fix for a stuck screw and it won't do anything for water in your gas. You can rebuild the Hitachi for under $30 for a kit and you already know it works. 

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Beware of Chinese 'clone' rip offs. Must be a Weber carb. This is an expensive fix for a stuck screw and it won't do anything for water in your gas. You can rebuild the Hitachi for under $30 for a kit and you already know it works. 

okay. 

 

the Hitachi btw has done 422,000 hard km towing above 1 ton 99% of that time. i know for a fact at one it was used by an idiot to drag a 3.5 ton cattle float with 5-6 head in it out of a ditch. the car has had a very hard life. i was considering just replacing the motor. but if there is a way to rebuild the carb ill give it a go. ill grab some photos in a second. its an electronic choke Hitachi carb. i believe. the electronic choke is bypassed and 2 wires run in the plug bipassing it. the last owner couldnt get the part so just had the local workshop do a quick fix. that was 5 or 6 years ago. if i could get my hands on the choke that would help a lot wouldn't it? and that carb has 2 springs right? i only saw a single spring on mine. as far as ive got with nissan the datsun 720 dual cab in aus ran a 620 L18 with the l18 stock carb (again 620) i have no timing mark but timing is fine. 

 

if all go's well with hanes ill have a workshop manual to figure out some of the issues it has today. they did say there was little to no differences between the us 620 with the l18 and the l18 720 here. ive seen as high as a single l18 84 king cab 720 here. so it might be an idea to contact wreckers and such to try and get a electric choke. unless someone can link me to one? and tell me what the plug's (4 of them) on the firewall that run from the motor (2) fuel pump (1) and carb (1 + choke) 3 are bipassed 1 is there but doesnt work. 

 

 

can i just use a 2.2k ohm resistor and solder it into the wireing harness the old owner had already exposed the wiring. and theres 2 of the plugs you listed. both are the same and are just after/before the headlights both sides.

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Beware of Chinese 'clone' rip offs. Must be a Weber carb. This is an expensive fix for a stuck screw and it won't do anything for water in your gas. You can rebuild the Hitachi for under $30 for a kit and you already know it works. 

any thoughts.

 

btw compliance plates if they help at all

 

 

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G064na7.jpg

 

This is the electric choke heater relay. It was actually used here in the '74 710 which insidently also was the only year that they had L18 engines. Any old L series Hitachi carb electric choke heater would work on this. Or you can simply buy a universal manual choke and connect to your old choke housing to put it back into service.

 

None of the pictures clearly show the stuck screw.

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TRLOMEU.jpg

 

 

that spring just next to it (cant see it now you bring it up) theres a screw. only screw on the car with a spring on it. its got a 5 or 6 mm head with a spring on the underside. its cramped to the point i can barely get a finger in to it. i cant get the air filter off. (welded or something or just stuck) but the bolt with the spring is stuck. i can get a shifter onto it

 

(this kind of shifter) 

 

socket-set.jpg

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Not charging according to those gauges. Maybe alternator is bad. Maybe the gauges got unplugged. If the plug in the back of the alternator is loose it would do that.

 

How many miles on the alternator? Maybe the brushes need replacing. Lots of maybes.

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