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1978 620 Project


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Hi everyone, I'm new to this forum but I've been peeking in since I picked up (or rather had dumped into my driveway) my '78 eggshell white 620.

The truck has a pretty clean body, not too much rust, and a complete interior. It wasn't in running condition however, the engine turned over so good enough :)


I've been working on it for the past few weeks, pulled most everything out of the engine bay, sans block. So far, the carb's been rebuilt, valve clearance adjusted, new intake/exhaust gasket, new ignition parts, timing adjusted, brake lines replaced, new radiator, many new emisions parts.


Today I worked on the hood. The original mounts for the hood hinges were rusted solid and beyond hope. So being a machinist, I made a new pair out of aluminum.





  Here's the cad model, the other mount is a mirror image of this



   Machined and installed












The mounts work perfect, the hood aligns proper.


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I guess if my truck's mounts were so badly rusted out, in California, that others might have the same problem. If anyone is in dire need I can make more for the cost of materials when the machine isn't in use.


Here are a few more pics with the hood mounted.









I'm going to try to start it today, fingers crossed that my cobbled together carburetor was reassembled properly. I'm almost sure that the choke linkage is wrong, and I haven't figured out where the throttle cable is supposed to mount : /

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IM not getting how these mounts work? as I see where the hood bolts to the lever with the 2 holes.but i dont have a 620 so cant see how its works altogether.


if you have spark at the coil. timming is close got fuel to the carb and you see it squirting in the carb its most likey going to fire off. Most times the carb is dry so it take a while to get gas up to the carb so soem pour a little gas in carb.


what I do is take the mechanical pump out and pump it up by hand then reinstall it. But up to you.

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IM not getting how these mounts work? as I see where the hood bolts to the lever with the 2 holes.but i dont have a 620 so cant see how its works altogether.


Yea, they're kind of strange. The U shaped arm feeds through a hole above the firewall then another below the windscreen/above the wiper arm assembly. Here's how they look stock.






I guess I can make a pair of mounts for $30 +shipping.

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Can I ask how you took them off? I thought they'd just slide off ,but they seem welded on ?

They're spot welded on, but mine were pretty rusted out, and the previous owner had already removed one. I pried mine off, then grinded the area a little.

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  • 3 weeks later...
  • 3 months later...

I've given up on the old carb and got a professional rebuilt. It turns out that the one that came with the truck wasn't the proper one. I've re plumbed the vacuum system and replaced worn out emissions parts. Right now I have the exhaust system removed from the cat back, just waiting on a new exhaust and some adapters before I get it welded back together. I also found some bad rust on the forward part of the floor pans so I'm gonna cut the rotten parts out and weld in new sheet metal. Oh, I also put new tires on, rebuilt the rear brakes, replaced brake lines and shoes on the front and bled the system. It won't be long now.

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Is your truck a longbed? Its funny because my truck is the exact same color and everything, but a longbed


Yea mine's a longbed too. I just discovered the mechanical fuel pump is dead too, I've been running it on a gravity feed can until now, so at least a couple more weeks.

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  • 3 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...

Welded in new sheet metal for the rusted out driver side. It was my first try at welding, don't judge me!




I also had to replace the wheel cylinders on both rear wheels after discovering that they leaked after bleeding.

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Dont take the box apart its no fun putting it togther.  Try the adjuster screw on top of the box first


Thanks, there was enough adjustment to eliminate most of the slop. I checked for binding while the wheels were up in the air, it seems good.


Right now I've got the drive shaft out and the transmission backed away enough to have the clutch and pressure plate removed. I'm having trouble getting the transmission to drop out completely, is there a trick to it?

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