85"720 Posted September 5, 2014 Report Share Posted September 5, 2014 How much brake fluid would I need to refill the brake system. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted September 5, 2014 Report Share Posted September 5, 2014 To top up, as little as you can. Not a good idea to keep unused brake fluid. If replacing it all, get at least a liter. . Quote Link to comment
85"720 Posted September 5, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 5, 2014 Also What's the best way to bleed the brakes after flushing it all out Quote Link to comment
Jeremiah720 Posted September 5, 2014 Report Share Posted September 5, 2014 Bleed the furthest from the master. Right rear then left rear right front then left front. Its a good idea to have a hand with this. Someone pumps and hold the peddle down the other person opens the bleeder while the peddle is pushed to the floor. Closed the bleeder and pump again. Hold then open the bleeder again. And repeat until there's no air trapped at each wheel. Quote Link to comment
xsdg Posted September 5, 2014 Report Share Posted September 5, 2014 Don't forget! The bleeding process _must_ start with the Nissan Load Sensing Valve (NLSV), which sits below the passenger seat, on the inside of the frame rail. If this has air in it, it will be impossible to properly bleed the rear axle. If you have a Haynes manual, the picture of the NLSV is incorrect; that picture shows the mechanism used to bleed the clutch slave line, which lives on the firewall in the engine bay. That is completely unrelated. The NLSV is beneath the vehicle, directly below the passenger seat, on the inside of the frame rail. The bleed screw is at the highest point (so right below the floor). Quote Link to comment
85"720 Posted September 6, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 6, 2014 Should I bleed the rear first or the NLSV or the whole system first then the NLSV Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted September 6, 2014 Report Share Posted September 6, 2014 Don't forget! The bleeding process _must_ start with the Nissan Load Sensing Valve (NLSV), which sits below the passenger seat, on the inside of the frame rail. If this has air in it, it will be impossible to properly bleed the rear axle. If you have a Haynes manual, the picture of the NLSV is incorrect; that picture shows the mechanism used to bleed the clutch slave line, which lives on the firewall in the engine bay. That is completely unrelated. The NLSV is beneath the vehicle, directly below the passenger seat, on the inside of the frame rail. The bleed screw is at the highest point (so right below the floor). NLSV then REAR then FRONT brakes. Quote Link to comment
that-son Posted September 9, 2014 Report Share Posted September 9, 2014 how do the BRAKE lines look? might be a good time to replace... Quote Link to comment
85"720 Posted September 10, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 10, 2014 Where can you buy the brake lines at. How much would they cost Quote Link to comment
Dawa Posted September 10, 2014 Report Share Posted September 10, 2014 you can buy brake lines at oreillys and similar stores. when i upgraded my 620's front drums to rotors, i stripped the flare nuts (yes i was using a flare wrench) and had to get completely new hard lines. the lines at the stores come pre assembled (flare nuts attached & with flares at the ends) and in different lenghts (ie 15", 32", etc) on the 620, the passenger and driver side lines are of different lengths, so keep that in mind. Quote Link to comment
that-son Posted September 10, 2014 Report Share Posted September 10, 2014 at rockauto they're anywhere from $3-20. my experience has been positive with the purchases and almost a negative but turned positive on a return. Quote Link to comment
85"720 Posted September 10, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 10, 2014 Thank you that-son for the price quote might buy a pair Quote Link to comment
that-son Posted September 10, 2014 Report Share Posted September 10, 2014 before you do... let's find out what the opinion is on new old stock rubber hoses. i just bought some belts and radiator hoses that apparently are nos. they look ok but for how long? i'd hate to have you buy hydraulic lines that might deteriorate in a few months time. anyone? Quote Link to comment
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